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Bubbas Garage

10+ Year Contributor
30
0
Mar 25, 2012
Watertown, South_Dakota
Hello everyone, my names jordan and i have been lookin on this site for quite some time while i have been looking for a 1g talon. I was looking for a stock one that i could build myself, but with no luck i came across one that has been completly built for a price i could absolutly not refuse. Heres the List of goodies.

2.0 Ross Pistons
Eagle Rods
SBR Stage 5 ported and polished head
FP 2 cams
Magnus Sheetmetal Intake Manifold w/ bungs for direct port N2O

Trans:
Stock Stock tranny
Stock Stall
AFCO Transcooler with -6an lines
kiggly mod.

Mods:
VRSF FMIC short route piping FORGE recirculated BOV
Dejon Tool Intake Evo 8 MAF
DSMlink V2.5
LC1 Wideband
Buschur Racing 3in turbo back exahust
2.5in O2 housing
Turbonetics cast t3manifold exhaust manifold
50trim turbo (ebay)
FP Oil Drain line
Dual Piston Front Calipers
Manual Rack and Pinion Steering
Battery relocated to the hatch

Fuel System:
PTE 1000cc injectors
Aeromotive FPR
Walbro 255 fuel pump

Heres the bad part. Some kid bought it and put regular gas in it (was tuned for e85) so im sure that didnt do it any good. And the worste part... the kid "retuned" it himself, and ####ed it all up and it runs EXTREMLY lean, to the point where one of the spark plug ground electrode part got completly melted. So with that all being said, my plan is to put a new turbo on it and get it retuned and hope nothing got screwed up to bad. And if all else fails. I have plenty of good reusable parts :D
Let me know what you guys think about it, and be honest id love to hear your opinions, and also what turbo would you recommend i run on the setup being able to keep the external wastegate. ( looking for 20psi or so, somewhat quick spool, but open to recommendations)
Thanks
Jordan
 

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Hello everyone, my names jordan and i have been lookin on this site for quite some time while i have been looking for a 1g talon. I was looking for a stock one that i could build myself, but with no luck i came across one that has been completly built for a price i could absolutly not refuse. Heres the List of goodies.

2.0 Ross Pistons
Eagle Rods
SBR Stage 5 ported and polished head
FP 2 cams
Magnus Sheetmetal Intake Manifold w/ bungs for direct port N2O

Trans:
Stock Stock tranny
Stock Stall
AFCO Transcooler with -6an lines
kiggly mod.

Mods:
VRSF FMIC short route piping FORGE recirculated BOV
Dejon Tool Intake Evo 8 MAF
DSMlink V2.5(comes with laptop if i get asking price)
LC1 Wideband
Buschur Racing 3in turbo back exahust
2.5in O2 housing
Turbonetics cast t3manifold exhaust manifold
50trim turbo (ebay)
FP Oil Drain line
Dual Piston Front Calipers
Manual Rack and Pinion Steering
Battery relocated to the hatch

Fuel System:
PTE 1000cc injectors
Aeromotive FPR
Walbro 255 fuel pump

Heres the bad part. Some kid bought it and put regular gas in it (was tuned for e85) so im sure that didnt do it any good. And the worste part... the kid "retuned" it himself, and ####ed it all up and it runs EXTREMLY lean, to the point where one of the spark plug ground electrode part got completly melted. So with that all being said, my plan is to put a new turbo on it and get it retuned and hope nothing got screwed up to bad. And if all else fails. I have plenty of good reusable parts :D
Let me know what you guys think about it, and be honest id love to hear your opinions, and also what turbo would you recommend i run on the setup being able to keep the external wastegate. ( looking for 20psi or so, somewhat quick spool, but open to recommendations)
Thanks
Jordan

Hope that too but if it manage to melt a spark plug :toobad: I would to a compression test and check if there's no melted piston rings or the piston itself
About the turbo stick with a 16g for 20 psi if you want a street car only.
Do a compete maintenance first tho fluids, belts, brakes etc.
 
Thanks for the reply. a guy is nice enought to help me get a tune that i can atleast drive on for right now til i make sure nothing is wrong with it, that way i can get it up to operating temp saftly and do another compression test with a new ignition so it constantly is turning over LOL. Hoping for the best Also one more question, i was reading on compression tests for these cars, and it said to crank it over 4 times and hold it at WOT, and i forgot to hold it at WOT, why do you have to do that out of curiosity? Thanks
Jordan
 
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Heres the bad part. Some kid bought it and put regular gas in it (was tuned for e85) so im sure that didnt do it any good. And the worste part... the kid "retuned" it himself, and ####ed it all up and it runs EXTREMLY lean, to the point where one of the spark plug ground electrode part got completly melted. So with that all being said, my plan is to put a new turbo on it and get it retuned and hope nothing got screwed up to bad. And if all else fails. I have plenty of good reusable parts :D
Let me know what you guys think about it, and be honest id love to hear your opinions, and also what turbo would you recommend i run on the setup being able to keep the external wastegate. ( looking for 20psi or so, somewhat quick spool, but open to recommendations)
Thanks
Jordan

How lean does it run? While boosting, the wideband should read about 11:1 on pump gas or about 12:1 on E85. But melted spark plugs aren't a good signet all. It's possible that the pistons and head have similar damage. I would run a compression and leak down test before doing anything else. More info can be found here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html

The wastegate is bolted to the manifold, so you can use it with any turbo that bolts to that manifold. Since your manifold has a T3 flange, your basically limited to a T3 flanged turbo. It would also need to have the same downpipe flange, otherwise you'd need a new one of those too. But without knowing your goals and budget, we can't really suggest which turbo to use. Boost pressure doesn't mean much when selecting a turbo. A 16g turbo at 30psi is very different than a GT40R at 30psi.

We did a compression test on it before i bought it ( seemed to be all around 140-145) but it wasnt a very good test cause the igntion kept stopping it from turning over.

The ignition has nothing to do with the engine turning over. You should have all the spark plugs and wires removed when testing anyways. So I'm not sure what you mean by this...

Also one more question, i was reading on compression tests for these cars, and it said to crank it over 4 times and hold it at WOT, and i forgot to hold it at WOT, why do you have to do that out of curiosity?

The throttle plate restricts airflow to the engine. That's what controls the engine speed. Since a compression test is measuring how much the air gets squished, you want the cylinder to be completely filled. Having the throttle closed will just result in slightly lower compression numbers.
 
damn that things clean! i once had a 1990 GSX white with sun roof. 1Ga's are so sick with the pop up head lights! my 2 ALL TIME FAVORITE ECLIPSE's are the 1990 GSX and the 1999 GSX.

you can unplug the signal wire to the pop up head light electric motor, and then manually twist them open to half way open, gives the car the "LAZY" eye look. lazy eye'd talons are dope lookin!
 
Thanks for the replies.
Wes_393: At a cold start up and idle the a/f was at 20! Warmed up at idle it was still at 14.8! Im scared to run it LOL. Only one spark plug was melted ( i know still not good!) so im hoping i can get this base tune to i can atleast run it without damaging it to get it up to operating temps to redo the compression test. And when i mean ignition, i mean the key/switch is bad so sometimes when you turn the key it doesnt start, or when turning it over it will randomly stop giving the starter power. And thanks for the explenation of my question of it at WOT. Thanks!

DSMCurse, was wondering how to do it! Thanks ;)

Boostedtinkan, thanks!

91 Stocker: I would never pay anywhere near what he was asking for it :nono:
 
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Thanks! Im just hopin he didnt do to much damage! :/ really hopin to get that tune sometime soon so i can do a good compression test and start working on it!
 
Thanks for the replies.
Wes_393: At a cold start up and idle the a/f was at 20! Warmed up at idle it was still at 14.8! Im scared to run it LOL. Only one spark plug was melted ( i know still not good!) so im hoping i can get this base tune to i can atleast run it without damaging it to get it up to operating temps to redo the compression test. And when i mean ignition, i mean the key/switch is bad so sometimes when you turn the key it doesnt start, or when turning it over it will randomly stop giving the starter power. And thanks for the explenation of my question of it at WOT. Thanks!

14.8:1 is fine in closed loop operation (idle and normal driving) because that is what your ecu is targeting (from the factory) in closed loop operation. But under WOT you want to be around 11:1 or more rich as stated earlier.

Also, make sure your WB sensor is in good condition and calibrate it just to be safe.
 
Nocardick: thanks for the respoce. The car still runs like crap (doesnt feel like im getting enough fuel, and idles arould 500 rpm and dies. I think today im going to drain all the fuel out and start fresh. see if that changes anything, already put new plugs in. Would it help if i posted a log of the car at idle? Also, i was reading about dsmlink v2.5 and it said if you unhook your battery you lose some of your settings? ( i unplugged it for the drive home, long story) So maybe it doesnt have a tune now if that is the case? Thanks again

Eriktande: Thanks! and i definatly will!

heres a small log of the car at idle and it dying at the end, hopefully it worked from this computer, if not ill reupload it. Thanks
 

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