urbansmoker1 said:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

7018 electrode stick welding with a miller syncrowave 250dx
Got an 85% on this plate. Not bad, lap joints are a bi*** though haha.

I believe this is 3/8 plate. 135amp multi pass.

Click to expand...

These pix^ post 481

YZFR1 said:

Right on, that is the plan my man



Nah man, it was just too much welding for one day



Didn't see anything on the previous page, not sure which picture you are talking about? I saw some that looked like tig welds though

I did some more 7018 today for fun. The first picture is using a 1/8 rod and the second one with a 3/32 rod.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Click to expand...

Are they teaching you to whip and pause 7018?

urbansmoker1 said:

Those look better, your still going a litle fast on the 1/8th rod you can see arrows in your bead.

Click to expand...

Better than a 6010, that's for sure. The "roll of dimes" is overrated, it doesn't make the weld any more inferior.. just personal preferance.

urbansmoker1 said:

These pix^ post 481

Click to expand...

Those don't look bad.

wishihadatalon said:

Are they teaching you to whip and pause 7018?

Click to expand...

I picked up my first rod, ever, last week and i'm not in denial that i still need a lot of practice.

Are they teaching you to be a smart ass?

Stack of dimes actually aren't over rated, some jobs call for cosmetic welding that has strictural needings as well (exhaust manifold, intercooler) no one wants a bead that looks like a bird shat on it. Plus if you go Too fast or too slow or don't chip off your slag and get porosities it WILL affect your weld. And an inspector will be able to tell. It's all in the heat affected zone and how it changes the molecular structure of the metal in that area and effects the integrity of the weld. It may not mean anything to the hobbiest but for those of us in it for a career it greatly helps having good consistency and contour. No one wants to buy or use a part with welds that look like a chicken shat on it. Not saying yours are. Yours are far better than some i have in my class

Fair enough, i slowed down on my travel speed and gave a shot at the roll of dimes using the 6013 stick this time. Also, did my best not to pause.

The main thing i noticed doing it that way, usually i can use one rod for two beeds, where as, this time i was pretty much using up the whole rod for each weld.

Btw, all my welds are free handed. No support of any kind, just a stick and two hands.



The other side of the same plates:

For 6010 (which is a hot, fast freezing rod) on a straight flat line I, whip out and then come back and re enter half of the puddle, allowing the puddle to first solidify slightly.

So a stepping motion. Hard to explain I guess


Or I do U's on bevels, by whipping slowly up to one side, dipping back into the middle, and then whipping up the other side. A smooth linear movement.







For 7018 on flat (Drag the rod!!!!!! The arc force is needed to push the slag to the back of the puddle). Do not step, whip, nothing. Drag a straight line or weave to the side very slowly while pausing at the edges for just a second. Slowly.



Your last few pic are really good.

Heres my T fillet root pass, hot pass,
Cover pass 7018, miller synchro wave 250DX 125 amps. Total
Of 3 passes

Looks damn good if i do say so myself. Got a 90% on it.

Now I'm onto vertical position and that shit is HARD!

YZFR1 said:

Fair enough, i slowed down on my travel speed and gave a shot at the roll of dimes using the 6013 stick this time. Also, did my best not to pause.

The main thing i noticed doing it that way, usually i can use one rod for two beeds, where as, this time i was pretty much using up the whole rod for each weld.

Btw, all my welds are free handed. No support of any kind, just a stick and two hands.

Click to expand...

Nice improvement!

Here's some .049" stainless I did today.

Do you use a positioner? How are your stops and starts so flawless! Damn you

Ya we turn everything. Restarts are easy with tig welding though.

SlowChild3 said:

Ya we turn everything. Restarts are easy with tig welding though.

Click to expand...

Yeah it's easy but making it look like it never happened is another story haha
Positioner = cheating

urbansmoker1 said:

Heres my T fillet root pass, hot pass,
Cover pass 7018, miller synchro wave 250DX 125 amps. Total
Of 3 passes

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Looks damn good if i do say so myself. Got a 90% on it.

Now I'm onto vertical position and that shit is HARD!

Click to expand...

You got some undercut on what looks like your #3 bead, angle of your electrode was probably pointing more towards the bottom plate than the top plate

Actually i was doing more than a 45* angle. 45* root pass, second pass was more like a 15* and the 3rd was like a 60* going almost straight at the plate. It was a little under cut a little on te top pass thats why i got 90 and not 100

I'll taje a better pic of everything

That piece would have got an a in the class I help in. It's all about welding time, just remember to keep yourself open to advice from others when it comes to tips and tricks on welding.

I think i like this thread, we can all learn from each other. And for some of us that are starting out, we can see what some real professional welds are supposed to look like!

SlowSpyder said:

That piece would have got an a in the class I help in. It's all about welding time, just remember to keep yourself open to advice from others when it comes to tips and tricks on welding.

Click to expand...

I fully agree

Here is some other angles of the fillet from the post above




Pretty damn uniform, not much under cut at all. The whole bead is 45* to the joint.
I did not much care about cleaning off the spatter balls on this one haha.

Cut the pieces using
My shotty cutting torch skills heh.

Those are pretty good. Yea it sucks big time when you have to prepare your own metal but hey it makes you learn. Wait till you get to overhead, then you'll really hate stick welding.

At the school I help at I try to cut all the scraps from work into nice straight pieces because a lot of students have a hard time with 7018 on metal with jagged edges. 7018 no likey air gaps.

My school doesnt really care or have enough time for over head, and since I'm a tig specialist i dont really care tig is where my passion lies i jist dont get to do it as much as what the school is focusing on which is stick/ oxy fuel. Next semester i have tig, mig, and stick2 at least I'll getta show my skills for a little while. The school does t care about tig as much as stick apparently, but i get to work on nice miller machines. We use tue synchro wave 250 an Lincoln's , i dont use the Lincoln cause I'm partial to miller. Most likely will upgrade to a dynasty 200 in the near future.

YZFR1 said:

Better than a 6010, that's for sure. The "roll of dimes" is overrated, it doesn't make the weld any more inferior.. just personal preferance.



Those don't look bad.



I picked up my first rod, ever, last week and i'm not in denial that i still need a lot of practice.

Are they teaching you to be a smart ass?

Click to expand...

Slow your role man, it was a question and a good one. I was thinking exactly spoonman said. That being said, I thought they looked good before you told me they were your first. I miss stick welding, something very relaxing about it.

^Sorry man, i missunderstood what you were trying to say. I thought that you were trying to point out that i had some breaks in my welds, which i did. Because it's hard to get used to constantly readjusting your position and rod angle when running a beed, when new at it.

I think i could agree that there are better ways to do 7018 on flat. The main reason i'm just running circles right now is because i think it could help more down the road to get used to doing it that way. The ultimate goal is to be able to do any type of movement with the stick and have the weld come out looking exactly the same!

Btw, i love the smell of a burning stick rod!

Hopped on the miller diversion 180 20 minutes ago. Testing a vband weld to sch10 3" ss to make sure i have amperage correct for my custom o2 housing. I Figure if i can make it the exact same dimensions as the stock one, i can bolt up or vband to my megan down pipe.



I still havent gotten the purge setup yet but like i said this is just practice. I had some sugaring on the insde so i tried to grind it out hahahaha



Thays the idea, using a 120* mandrel bend from vibrant. I'm waiting on a merge collector also cause i said f cutting my own with a hand saw. Then I'll grab more sch10 weld ells and start manifold #1

I finished te prototype runners and i haw to double check everything aligns before i start using that as a template for the real thing.

I hate tappatalk sorry for the double post.

I love pictures

I believe the diversion should have a pulsing feature so you should try that. That should give you abit more color to your welds. Another thing you can try is to slightly lower your amperage and do some semi circle/ side to side motions with your torch. Stainless is one of those metals that is just real picky when it comes to welding. It warps real easy and getting a nice rainbow effect on thinner metals is harder to achieve not to mention controlling sugaring/too much penetration. That's where joint preparation comes into play.

Like I said before grind a larger bevel on the pipe as in all the way down to the inside of the pipe. That's the easiest way to insure full penetration of the weld without having to use as much amperage. I'm sure they gave you some sort of hand out on bevels. Imagine trying to weld some pipe together, you butt them up together and weld them (sch 10/40). You'll need more amperage to get full penetration and at the sametime the weld might look decent but the color most likely wont be there.

Now if you have a bevel which all the ss els do it wi require less amperage to fully weld them together because technically the metal is now thinner at the weld joint. Remember that last pic you showed us and it didn't penetrate all the way through? That's where a larger bevel would become beneficial because you had the right amount of amperage to get the right color but not enough to penetrate through.

I was using 50 amps and the diversion does not have a pulse feature sadly or else id definitely be using it. They want you on a dynasty for that. Yeah i know all about bevels and route faces (land) the vband flange actually needs to be flush to the pipe, there is a little catch for the pipe to sit on. I do weaves on mu welds as you can tell on the vband flange. I plan to use a 3/32 gap on my sch10 at 45 amps when i do the real deal! I'm definitely getting full penetration because of the sugaring, i jist need to purge the backside so it stays nice in there. Thanks for the tips man i appreciate critique, it only makes me better..