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I was refering to te guy that mig welded his. He used sch 40. Anyway like i said ill be using sch10 for the real deal but here is the final mock up of the shape of things
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Pushes things a little toward the driver side to clear the motor mount an also clear the 2g radiator hose. I hope that it doesnt have any clearance issues with the alternator LOLz
 
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i got "one of the last" flanges Road race engineering had last year. I am not sure if they are producing more etc. its 1/2" mild steel.

Ovaling those weld els = heat and a bfh

If possible spend the $60-70 on an SLS flange from STM and save yourself the headache.
 
Had to add this Probably one of my best beads on tig.
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It's not purged though :(

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That last pic shows lack of penetration. Either give it abit more pedal or grind a bigger bevel into the piping. Once your welding has fully penetrated to the other side that's when purging will help with your welds.
 
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You can still get full penetration with a larger bevel. The stainless elbows/ joints that they sell typically have a bevel that goes only 2/3 of the material thickness or atleast that's how it is with the schedule 40 ss piping that I use at work.
 
Naw,you tack your pipe with your gap the way the sch40 is as it comes is just fine. After it's tacked you use masking tape around the pipe around your tacks and pull it away as you weld your gap. Set your perg to 1 or 2 psi. argon hose (small as a vac line) coming in the bottom, and an exit hole at the top of the other end of the pipe. If your using a gas lens you won't have any issue with the torch gas being disturbed, plus it's all argon anyway stainless loves argon.
 
that and you would need 3 hands...any pics of that process urban?
 
Lol no you peal it the distance of the bead you want to make. Say 1/4 of the pipe at a time. It won't catch fire because your only using it to keep the argon close to your weldment area. The tacks are already keeping your pipe together. Every time you make a stop, peal the tape back more. I never said you would be welding on the tape LOL, you want to keep stainless as cool as possible anyhow. The tape might have a hard time sticking if it gets too hot obviously. After every stop you want the work to cool.

You could also stick the tape on your finger of the filler hand and pull back as you dip too.
 
That makes it abit more complicated. What kind of tape are you using? What are the chances of the tape leaving residue on the pipe?
 
Haha quiet a few.
Harbor freight stick welder (then converted to tig)
harbor freight flux (very shorted lived, used about 1 or 2 spools of wire)
lincoln mig
hobart mig
eastwood tig
miller diversion 180 (sold last week :( )
longevity 160sx
longevity 140 & spool gun arriving this week
thermal arc 186 arriving soon
Longevity 200ex coming soon. (for testing only, I don't get to keep it)

Oh and a blue point mig welder. Bought it and gave it to my dad.

So I started with the stick and converted it to tig to see if i even liked tig. So I bought the eastwood tig welder and it showed up not working so I sent it back and got the miller diversion. Got a smoking deal on a hobart mig and I got that. I missed a mig since I sold my lincoln. Bought the longevity 160sx because I wanted some more balance control for those rare times when I need it. Sold the miller to pay some bills.
Got a really good deal on a longevity mig and spool gun. It was cheaper to do it this way than to buy a conversion kit and spool gun for my hobart. Always wanted to try a spool gun.
Bought the blue point used and was going to flip it and decided to give it to my dad.
I can't tell you what i paid for the thermal arc but it's going to be my main unit now that i have 220v power and it has pulse and other cool options. I asked longevity if I could use their 200ex as a comparison and they said sure so they are sending me one to borrow for a short time then it's going back.


So as of right now I have 2 (hobart and longevity 160sx) and tomorrow will be a different story.

In your opinion how are those harbor freight stick converted to tig. Would it be ok to weld aluminum? Stainless. I've been thinking of that I don't need it for Nothing major. If anything ill be welding o2 bungs in SS downpipes. School projects mostly steel. And maybe some aluminun IC pipes.
 
That makes it abit more complicated. What kind of tape are you using? What are the chances of the tape leaving residue on the pipe?

Masking tape, no residue if you don't leave it on for a long time before you weld. Masking tape is for just that, masking. It doesn't have as sticky adhesive as say scotch or duct.
 
Was trying to redeem myself with the 6010 from last week. Went through a few plates until finally started getting a feel for it on the last one. If i close my eyes now, all i see is weld beeds.. LOL

Nine beeds on each side this time..
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Was trying to redeem myself with the 6010 from last week. Went through a few plates until finally started getting a feel for it on the last one. If i close my eyes now, all i see is weld beeds.. LOL

That's a nasty stick to run. Get good at that and oxy acetylene welding you'll pick tig welding right up!
 
Was trying to redeem myself with the 6010 from last week. Went through a few plates until finally started getting a feel for it on the last one. If i close my eyes now, all i see is weld beeds.. LOL

Nine beeds on each side this time..
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Hope you are using a # 11 or 12 shade you shouldn't be seeing that. Sounds like you got arc eye.

Compare to mine a few posts back i used 7018
 
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That's a nasty stick to run. Get good at that and oxy acetylene welding you'll pick tig welding right up!

Right on, that is the plan my man :thumb:

Hope you are using a # 11 or 12 shade you shouldn't be seeing that. Sounds like you got arc eye.

Nah man, it was just too much welding for one day :p

Compare to mine a few posts back i used 7018

Didn't see anything on the previous page, not sure which picture you are talking about? I saw some that looked like tig welds though

I did some more 7018 today for fun. The first picture is using a 1/8 rod and the second one with a 3/32 rod.

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