so far I have tried like 8 different black ecus, I found out that the code p0450 appears after flashing. but I think this is because of the ecu that it doesnt belong to the car, specially on 95-97 cars. 98-99 cars will work nice, no cell light.

Thats a really good setup there you have MY1GDSM, that way I dont have to remove my side panel to flash other people ecus. is there any way you can send me the diagram set up? I got everything already!

Just disable Ecu Periphery2 Bits(292) ~ Bit 14, simple as a 1 to a 0

That pic is not mine just grabbed it on Google real quick. But, I have something setup just like that.
As well as a harness to go to my 1g's stock harness for testing things in the real world with a few quick disconnects for swapping pins for different ECU's

Either way,
It's Just a matter of running Power, ground and Data wires to to the ODB II port and Ecu... If you are just trying to flash a Ecu.

Just pull up the ECU you are flashings pinout and this ODB II pinout. The one to use is "ISO and KWP Protocol Pins". Pin 15 does not need to be hooked up.
Not hard at all

I'm new to ecuflash and trying to flash my 99gst. Whenever I click to read from my ecu to get the stock tune which model am I supposed to select? I did the 539F I think it is and it read but then said it was an unkown image. I was told I had the wrong DEF file for my year. But on this link ROMs & EcuFlash Defs « ceddy.us they don't have anything for a 99gst. So what am I supposed to do?

Rom id#2363 according to the ceddy post.

Well I got the ceddy mods and followed this guide http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/407715-how-get-basic-tune-ecuflash.html to get a basic tune. I've got RC 720cc injectors so I put that into ecuflash. I couldn't find the latencys for the rc 720s so I used .405 from the Denso 720s. Well I got all this in there and wrote to my ecu and started it up. Well it sounds like the car is cammed, has around 12 vacuum and about 30 seconds into idling it will be pegged at a 10:1 AFR according to my wideband. What am I doing wrong here?

That sounds a bit too much. try .350

Actually for now I set my latencys back to stock and then reset my Ecu and it's idling pretty good at a 14.5-15.4.

What did you do for the rom and xml files did you select for your year? I'm needing the same thing you were

I always hate to be the one to say it but your answers are already in this thread and else where. Try searching

I'll give you a hint though unlike the the Evo ecu, Ceddy make the Rom structure for the H8 Ecu's and Ceddy mods universal so there is no need for multiple XML's and as well all Ecu's with the same processors are interchangeable Flash wise... .

You are completely right. only made it through page 6... I will look through entire thread. Thanks...





This shit is overwhelming...

I am a little confused about the timing maps on ecuflash. I am seeing negative numbers, which seems a little weird. I am confused on how it relates to the CAS. No one seems to have disscussed this. I havent tuned anything because i havent set base timing because i have a 97 and there is no pin to ground to. I would like some input before i start doing anything. Also curious about if that link to the ecu pin is correct. If not where do you guys get your pins for the ecu?

Negative timing should only occur at low rpm and high load, otherwise the ECU is seeing knock.

To set base timing: Using EvoScan, select MUTIII at the top, in the box on the right side of the screen under actuators select "IG 5deg BTDC". Now adjust your non-2Gb CAS until your timing light illuminates the 5 degree BTDC mark on the cover aligned with the indicator on the crank damper. -This is the same MUT command that would be sent from the uber-expensive factory MUT scan tool to put the ECU into timing adjust mode on a 2Gb (which as you correctly stated have no timing adjust connector).

As for your pin question, I'm not sure what it is you're asking. Please rephrase.

i understand spark (I have worked with megasquirt). The factory map has negatives at high boost and low rpm. About the ecu pins. Ceddy posted a link in his first post saying that the evo guys said that it is the right pins for the ecu. I can get the pins at the junkyard from a 420a but i do not know if they are the same.

goldeninja20 said:

i understand spark (I have worked with megasquirt). The factory map has negatives at high boost and low rpm. About the ecu pins. Ceddy posted a link in his first post saying that the evo guys said that it is the right pins for the ecu. I can get the pins at the junkyard from a 420a but i do not know if they are the same.

Click to expand...

I have never tried the 420a pins, not sure if they work. But I do know that there a couple of Honda's and some Mazda's that have the same ECU connectors as we do. Give me a minute and I will look them up. And yes if you want new pins the ones posted on the EVOm do work.

OK, looked it up on Greddy's website in the E-manage install manual and made a list on what cars had the same connector as the eclipse (according to the pictures). Then I went to DIYautotune.com to confirm. There are a lot more vehicles listen on DIY's website than have this ECU connector than in the E-manage manual.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/diypnp-nippon-denso-76pin-unassembled-kit-p-384.html

Happy hunting.

mike96 said:

I have never tried the 420a pins, not sure if they work. But I do know that there a couple of Honda's and some Mazda's that have the same ECU connectors as we do. Give me a minute and I will look them up. And yes if you want new pins the ones posten on the EVOm do work.

Click to expand...

If you could get me a list of a couple cars and maybe their ecu location. I rather go to the junkyard so i can do it tommorrow, I do not want to have to wait for it to be shipped. im impatient

goldeninja20 said:

If you could get me a list of a couple cars and maybe their ecu location. I rather go to the junkyard so i can do it tommorrow, I do not want to have to wait for it to be shipped. im impatient

Click to expand...

Click the link I put in my last post and scroll down...

Or click this link and scroll down...

DIYPNP Nippon Denso 76pin Unassembled Kit DIYAutoTune.com

Will any one send me a copy of their big map tune for the stock mas. I can not get mine to work correctly. I can not get over 160 load. I just want to see what others have done to see if I can fix my tune.

I have about had it with this makes me wish I had gone with link.

Don't give up.

This may not be what you're experiencing, but if you do not correctly load and view the "bigmaps" you will not see anything close to 320 load or whatever they're extended to. You would just see a jumbled mess that only goes to the stock 160 load or whatever that number is.

Sorry if that's not your issue, but it was worth a shot! I know I've discussed it with a couple of members in the past who were having this difficulty. Including myself.

EDIT: The major problem I'm seeing is that our FAQs and write up and how to's aren't dumb enough. This material is no joke and I find geological mapping with arcGIS a much more soothing experience.
EDIT II: Either way, PM me if you want what I've got.

PieEyedPiper said:

Don't give up.

This may not be what you're experiencing, but if you do not correctly load and view the "bigmaps" you will not see anything close to 320 load or whatever they're extended to. You would just see a jumbled mess that only goes to the stock 160 load or whatever that number is.

Sorry if that's not your issue, but it was worth a shot! I know I've discussed it with a couple of members in the past who were having this difficulty. Including myself.
.

Click to expand...

It was my issue a while ago. Now I am running on the big map Just can not get past 160. I know I am not on the jumbled small map because the car run weird on that map.

I am just frustrated. That my ecu stops at 160 for some reason. I have yet to figure out.

.

DO you guys have any idea how much time I just spent, on a Friday night reading this. Better if I dont say...welp, time for another 6 pack.


CANNOT wait to look into this more. To bad I have a '97.

nuclearr said:

Will any one send me a copy of their big map tune for the stock mas. I can not get mine to work correctly. I can not get over 160 load. I just want to see what others have done to see if I can fix my tune.

I have about had it with this makes me wish I had gone with link.

Click to expand...

I assume you've figured this out by now, but I'm guessing you're logging load and not 1Byte Load. The ECU does not stop at 160 load, but the standard load output is capped at 160 as that is its output bit limitation. For example, say you're really pushing 200 load, the ECU on the inside will register 200 load, BUT the datalogger will stop at 160 due to the bit limitation. Running a Tephramods Rom and logging 1Byte Load works around this problem and will give you the correct load count the ECU sees.

GofaST4life said:

.

DO you guys have any idea how much time I just spent, on a Friday night reading this. Better if I dont say...welp, time for another 6 pack.


CANNOT wait to look into this more. To bad I have a '97.

Click to expand...

Keep reading, it's good stuff even if it's rather dated. What's wrong with a '97? It's still a couple pin swaps from plug and play just like the later ECUs, you just have to add a flash port. Guide compliments of Ceddy:

Adding a Flash Connector to a 95-97:




On 95-97s you must add a pin at position 79 of your ECU Harness.
This must be connected to the 2.5mm phono plug on your OpenPort 2.0 cable.
It must be connected to the tip of your phono plug.

Using this design you plug it straight into the Openport connector, no adapter needed. The other option is to get an actual Mitsu flash-port and wire that into the same pin, though using the actual flash-port you'll have to buy the extra adapter for the Openport cable.

You can get a phono plug at radio shack, or if you really want the actual flash-port any Mitsu made 98+ will have it at a yard. As for a spare pin; snag one from a junkyard, get one from somebody doing a partout, or simply use one of your leftovers from doing the swap. Have fun.

I'm so "glad" I practically gave away my stock ECU thinking the '95 EEPROM method was the best way to go for tuning these cars.

Is the consensus that upgrading to an Evo ECU is the best way to go or is it not worth the extra trouble?

I am considering going back to a '98 ECU instead of getting ECUlink because of an idle issue I have that I can not solve and I don't want to add another layer on top of it.

Do any other '98-'99 ECUs work? Did Mitsu put the H8s in '98 Galants or Mitsu powered Avengers or Sebrings? Mirages?

GPTourer said:

I'm so "glad" I practically gave away my stock ECU thinking the '95 EEPROM method was the best way to go for tuning these cars.

Is the consensus that upgrading to an Evo ECU is the best way to go or is it not worth the extra trouble?

I am considering going back to a '98 ECU instead of getting ECUlink because of an idle issue I have that I can not solve and I don't want to add another layer on top of it.

Do any other '98-'99 ECUs work? Did Mitsu put the H8s in '98 Galants or Mitsu powered Avengers or Sebrings? Mirages?

Click to expand...

A lot of people got rid of their flashable ECUs back when they were pretty much worthless; it's too bad really. As it stands, I'd say doing the Evo swap is the best way to go, but it's a significant amount of extra work. Not so much anything tough, just time consuming. The wire swap is easy, but getting everything set up to work properly is rather time-consuming as the swap thread is 100+ pages of scrambled information. It also focuses mainly on the Tephra V5 rom, which has some differences to the current V7 Rom (different tables/scalings). I'm contemplating writing up a how-to with a starter ROM to help simplify the swap and pretty much condense the useful information back out of the original swap thread.

Back in the day I'd say to roll the 2gb ECU hands down, but since development has come to a complete halt for it, it's no longer my first choice. It is still an excellent platform to work on, but you'll need the more expensive 2.0 cable, and its abilities are quite limited compared to the Evo ECU. Until someone picks up development for them again I only suggest them for those who already have it stock. No point in wasting it if it's already there.

That all said, Link is still the best tuning option available for our cars, and the amount of support is phenomenal. Where link falls short in my opinion is cost, especially when you factor in having to buy an Eprom ECU (which you conveniently already have). I did my Evo ECU swap for $125 (yeah I got a great deal there ); a far cry cheaper than Link, and nearly as capable. I could do a lot of mods with the cost difference, which was a deciding factor for me. Honestly, since you're halfway there already, it's your choice on which way you go.

As for your idle issue; both Link and the flashable ECUs are going to run like stock (well, maybe not so much with the Evo ECU till you get it sorted), it shouldn't really have an effect either way. It only gets more complex when you start tweaking things, and that goes with either option.

Finally, other cars produced by Mitsu did use similar H8 ECUs, but they're unfortunately pretty much unusable. The boards are not fully populated with the hardware to run all the extras that a turbo car brings to the table. You are better off forgetting them as an option.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

Melbowski said:

Good luck with whatever you choose.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. Halfway through reading this thread I was kicking myself for not hanging on to my stock ECU, but as I got towards the end I saw where the enthusiasm was starting to wane for the 98-99 ECU and move towards the Evo and I started thinking more about fixing my issues, sticking eith the '95 and moving forward to 'Link.

Is there a chart that lists periphery bits? I am trying to disable CELs with Ceddy mods. The codes i have are


p1104 - Have a mbc, therefore don't use the stock solenoid
p1105 - Have a fuel lab afpr, so I removed the fpr solenoid (is this the same as bit 02 in periphery 03(2A2))
p1500 - because i have a Saturn one-wire alternator

Thank you for the help. I love being able to flash my factory ecu.