Resolved Which bearing is this?

MTillard · Mar 27, 2012

Just got an awesome low mileage and low rust 96 2g with an engine issue. Previous owner said car was running and then made an awful noise so he shut it off. When it was running it sounded like marbles in the engine.

I pulled the pan and looked for signs of loose or busted rods, and found witness marks on both balance shafts next to cyl 3. Then, I saw a poor little bearing hanging up between the rear BS and block wall.

Is this a balance shaft bearing? I couldn't feel excessive play in any of the rods, or see any signs of an exited bearing on the main bearings. I'll probably replace all the gaskets on this engine and replace crankshaft bearings.

Another thing I noticed is that the alternator fuse (100A) was blown, and there is a large (4ga or so) wire disconnected that I'm assuming ran a former sub or something. Battery was dead due to no alternator. DAPO.

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93laser1g · Nov 7, 2012

obsidian said:
So starter is dead? maybe just a cleaning of the grounds will help.

or he could take it to an autozone and get it tested

MTillard · Nov 7, 2012

Grounds are new (see previous post), starter is original. It did this when I first started the engine, too. It's nothing new, it's just old and dead. Got a new one in tonight.

Working on putting the interior back together so I can switch DD's.

Just changed the oil and filter after 20 miles or so. Still haven't taken it to redline.

A few things I've noticed. Spool is around 10 PSI @ 3500, and I only ran it up to about 18 PSI @ 7k. I still have to install the GM 3 BAR sensor to log this.

Secondly, the gear noise from the rear diff seems loud. I wonder if it is worn down. I'll have to look through the service manual on what to check for.

Here's a picture of the Ronald McDonald right now, paint to come in the spring. I'm either going black or all gunmetal grey. I also will put the stock swirlies back on it too.

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MTillard · Nov 12, 2012

Starter wasn't bad, positive battery connection was corroded. I kept the new starter anyways, because I don't want to deal with a dead one in the friggin winter.

Fixed my high idle issue, just adjusted BISS 2 turns out from closed. Works like a charm, now. Sure can feel the engine vibrations at that low of an engine speed! That's what you get for having solid urethane mounts.

Still haven't switched back to the stock springs, lowering springs are still on it. Also need to find which ball joint(s) are bad on the front end.

I still need to figure out which ABS sensor is bad, need that to be working in the upcoming winter months here in MI.

Other than that, I love it! These little cars are super easy to drive, I don't know why that surprises me, but it does.

MTillard · Jan 1, 2013

Switched back to stock springs, 1000x improvement in ride and handling.

Car's been running great.

Until today when I heard a rod knock! AWESOME! I'm so excited I can't contain myself!

, man.

NHerron · Jan 1, 2013

Was it there even after being warmed up?

MTillard · Jan 1, 2013

Yep. It just started today. It wasn't knocking when I drove it yesterday or first thing. I gotta tear into it to see if there's play in the bottom end, check for crankwalk. Will do tomorrow after work.

Unless valvetrain noise sounds just like a rod knock, I'm pretty sure this engine is trashed already, after 1500 miles. Not sure what happened yet. It's always had oil and oil pressure.

NHerron · Jan 1, 2013

Look at the harmonic dampener area and see if anything's been rubbing. You can also wedge a prybar in that area to roughly check endlplay with a dial indicator. (Hit the clutch after you pry the dampener back toward trans)

Maybe a video post would be a good idea. Get some RPM fluctuation in there too

OutKastGSX · Jan 1, 2013

+1^^^^^
Had the harmonic dampner separate on me and I swore it was a rod.
Luckily it was just the dampner and it was a easy 150 dollar fix.

MTillard · Jan 5, 2013

Not the harm dampener. I indicate .010" of end play in the crank (limit is .0098). Oil pan is coming off next.

I know one of the rods was reconditioned, I'm thinking it is the same one that went bad again. I'll have to talk to the machinist who originally did the work to find out what the starting end play was. I never measured it, like an idiot.

What's the limit on HP handling on stock 7-bolts? I can't imagine why this piece ate up a thrust bearing so fast on a stock clutch and a big 16g. I was running around 22PSI with evo injectors, so I suppose I was around the 330HP mark.

I'm already looking at 6-bolt long or short blocks. And debating on just selling it as is.

NHerron · Jan 5, 2013

It's not a set in stone thing of course but somewhere in the 500 area. Then the rods bend I believe. But that question has been asked before if you want more info in that aspect.

The 97.5-99 blocks have the better thrust bearing design vs the 95/96. The 1G block is the strongest and most reliable in stock form. But if you were to go forged on a 97.5-99 block you'd be safe and reliable. Plus wouldn't have to play around with the CAS situation. But if you to go stroker double check on the 97.5-99 blocks, I don't have experience specifically there. If you were to go with a 6 bolt, you can buy the kiggly crank sensor and run the block just like a 2G. Minus the hard mods you have to do to get the 1G block in a 2G bay.

white92talontsi · Jan 6, 2013

Did you change the oil cooler from the last engine? If not then there is your problem and you will keep spinning bearings until you either A delete the cooler or B replace the cooler.

What were your main and rod bearing clearances set too?

MTillard · Jan 6, 2013

Ding ding ding! I think we have a winner with white92talontsi.

Rod #4 spun and chewed up both crank and rod bearing surfaces. There was a green tint to the oil, but I can't see any oil at all in the coolant system.

I also saw a little oil around the head gasket near the thermostat housing, I'm wondering if the head is cracked there.

I'll just have to pull off the oil cooler and test it to aid in diagnosing the head.

EDIT: I'll have to talk to the machine shop about the endplay and other clearances.

MTillard · Jan 8, 2013

For now I'm going to put the car up for sale, and move forward with swapping in a 6-bolt. There's a guy who has one locally, I have yet to hear it run, but he says it's in decent shape.

Here's the craigslist ad. Of course, all the car's details are in this thread. Make me an offer if you're interested.

DSM 2G Talon TSI AWD needs engine work

I've got a good lead on a late 2G shortblock that I'm going to pursue. It's the simplest option at this point with the greatest chance at an engine that will work.

MTillard · Feb 12, 2013

Going ahead with a 6-bolt swap. Deleted BS and oil cooler, drilled out 2g head to accommodate 1G studs.

Anyone know if the 2g lower and middle timing cover will work for the 1g? Otherwise I'm in the market for a 1g timing cover, and will buy ASAP.

Edit: Head is fine. Oil leak was from cam angle sensor o-ring.

MTillard · Feb 14, 2013

Ordered a timing cover from JNZ. Their service is wonderful, and their shipping and communication is spot on.

Cancelling all my orders from dsmgraveyard. They are painstakingly slow. What a freaking headache. All the parts I have had to source myself were almost the exact same price and I got them here in a few days. Not a few weeks.

Anyways. My 6-bolt block is just a bare block, so I've had to source every little extra piece imaginable. Like this one: rear main seal oil separator MD040332. Anyone have one? The rear housing doesn't have it.

white92talontsi · Feb 14, 2013

Glad you decided to stick with the car, If you have not had the machine shop do the work on the engine then I would let them know what clearances you want to run.

For a daily driver that is not going to see gobs of High RPM/HP then I would suggest staying around .002" For the Mains and around .0022 for the Rods.

Run a good quality 10-40 oil with a new oil cooler and you should be golden.

MTillard · Feb 14, 2013

Checked the main bearing clearances last night, they were all at .002" or just under. Center thrust bearing was closer to .0015. Haven't done the rods yet, that's tonight.

I got a non-cooled OFH, might run an air cooled later in the summer. Just trying to get the wheels on the ground at this point.

obsidian · Feb 14, 2013

I'd suggest 5w-40 Rotella T6 for oil.

I absolutely agree with the decision to restore your car.

Ebay had a lot of dsm parts. Type in 1g dsm and see what pops up. I know I just saw that rear main seal piece there.

MTillard · Feb 22, 2013

Can someone confirm that the 6-bolt flywheel bolts are the same as the flexplate bolts? Sure doesn't seem right. There's definitely another 3.80mm of thread engagement left in the crank.

I've got the M12x1.25 x 22.5, wondering if I should get the 26mm length ones.

obsidian · Mar 8, 2013

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

This should help ya out. No idea on sizes and a quick search didn't pull anything up for me. They have the mitsu part numbers so call your local dealer, give them the part numbers and they should be able to read you off the dimensions.

Good luck.

gieri002 · Mar 8, 2013

You should really start a build thread (DSM Journal).

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Resolved Which bearing is this?

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