The ports on the exhaust manifold flange are tapered to 1.5 Sch 10, at least on the STM piece.
4G63 EXHAUST MANIFOLD HEAD FLANGE

urbansmoker1 said:

Still wondering how I'm gonna ream the sch40 1.5id pipe to port match the 2g head flange ideas? Or weld in and grind out the inside?

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The OD of the SCH10 and SCH40 is the same so it will work in the head flange. After welding do some minor grinding to match. That would be my plan of attack anyway

Awesome thanks. I got from extreme psi so I'm guessing it's the vibrant flange those things arent cheap. Hoping that wasn't a mistake. My t3 flange is vibrant also.

Edit: Double checked, it is the vibrant flange. Holes look almost round though.

I wasn't going to post this at first, but figured somebody out there might need a good laugh

Did my first plate today using 6010. Here is the first side..



Here is the other side:



As you can tell, i need a LOT more practice!

BTW, also got my first taste of a red glowing chip on the lips.. ummm yummy

Wear welding mask n that won't happen. And a respirator. Stick welding with some electrodes with certain types f flux coating can be toxic to inhale. Also protects your mouth and nose from sparks and such.

So at what angle do i cut each pipe for the merge collector for a t3? I have 3.5" long pipes. I want the steepest transition possible.

I used some paper cups and a protractor, looks like if i make an 80 degree cut on one side, turn it 1/4 turn or 90* then make another 80* cut. That seems to be the general idea. Sound right anyone!?

a 15*-17* collector seems to be the steepest I have come accross

as far as making the cuts, when looking at the pipe so that you are actually looking through it, you will want to make the 2 cuts at 94*

trace the pipe circle on a sheet of paper, mark a 94* angle on the circle and transfer those 2 marks over to the pipe

^ think your missing some demensions. Like the angle of cut to leave the top of the merge collector whole.

it's hard to have a conversation like this in written form

the link below does a fairly good job picture wise
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2787713

Ya thats the one i was lookin at havent read all of it yet.

everyone loves a screamer

Practiced some 7018 today! And yes, i have been wearing my helmet while chipping slag this time , also started wearing a dust mask. Looking into getting a good welding respirator, preferably locally somewhere..

Theres probaly a welding respirator at harbor freight. You might even have a coupon for it.

They are like 30 bucks

eclipse420ags said:

Theres probaly a welding respirator at harbor freight. You might even have a coupon for it.

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I don't see one...

Very nice work in here!
I'm almost embarassed to post mine haha - this was a tie rod adapter sleeve for a 1965 Mustang.

Well shit guys. I was making my proto type manifold and while i was adjusting my torch flex angle the fuquer snapped on me now I'm out of comission for the weekend. Bummer!

Anyway here is the most recent from an hour ago on 65 amps.

Under cut a little but I'll do a second pass when i get the torch head replaced.


Thats the jist . It's gonna be a bit different than a ram horn because I'm trying to keep my 2g koyo rad.




2nd and last pix are different beads on different pieces.

Time for one of these if you have the diversion
Miller Diversion Direct Connect 12' WP 9 TIG Torch USA Weldcraft Compatible | eBay

I do have the diversion, BUT I'm leanin tward a flex lock head. I dont need to replace the whole handle yet .

Edit: just looked up flex lock, http://www.ckworldwide.com/flex-loc.htm and i might have to do the handle also, i like my wire that i have though this flex lock has the same thin handle. Taking off the hose that comes with the diversion looks like an interesting task. Looks harder then un screwing it cause there are other leads going into the machine.

Had to add this Probably one of my best beads on tig.

It's not purged though

you are a brave man welding that thing up without it not being tacked and assembled (in my amateur opinion)

ps looking at the head flange you have (i thought it was one that was premachined to fit up to the round pipe/bends) you are going to need to heat those weld els up and use a decent bench vise to get them ovaled

Like i said this is a proto type, I'll use schedule 10 for the flanges, no way in hell a sch 40 is fitting in an oval hole.i haven't even made the merge collector yet. I have done lots of tapeing and tacking before i weld lots of mock up in the living room with the dimensions i want. However this has not been mocked up in the car, I'm going off my dnp's dimensions and amount of pipes and bends. I want to get a good template shape so i can go to town in production of t3 manifolds.

Sirnixalot said:

you are a brave man welding that thing up without it not being tacked and assembled (in my amateur opinion)

ps looking at the head flange you have (i thought it was one that was premachined to fit up to the round pipe/bends) you are going to need to heat those weld els up and use a decent bench vise to get them ovaled

Click to expand...

I thought you were supposed to break all the tacks and weld up and put it back on the jig. No? This is why I want to build a manifold, be such a good learning experience but I know for a fact I'll fudge it up and there goes $300 investment.

SlowChild3 said:

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Replacing my 2.5" test pipe with 3 and plumbing in my for electric cutout.

Click to expand...

Did you cut that out of a 45" pipe? How they hell did you measure that, it looks so perfect.

It was a 90. I trimmed it to fit on the straight piece. Then I scribe a line to cut out.

Gamble97 said:

I thought you were supposed to break all the tacks and weld up and put it back on the jig. No? This is why I want to build a manifold, be such a good learning experience but I know for a fact I'll fudge it up and there goes $300 investment.

Click to expand...

I have only ever made 1 manifold and I am definitely no authority on the matter so take that into consideration

I tacked a runner together then I welded the joins alternating from collector side to head flange side.


1.5" sch40 pipe oval'd into an RRE 1/2" head flange and tig'd (not my welding)


A shot at the transition to the head itself, about a 1-2mm lip


Head side of the flange (the transition was made better with a carbide bit) with gasket over layed


Made the inner runners first. Twin scroll collectors suck......Evo 4-10 stock turbo twin scroll collectors suck worse . The odd shape of the ports are a pain


Closer look.


Fit up for the outer runners




Finished

Not sure if how I did it was the "proper" way or not but it worked out great for me

The above was done with a Lincoln Weldpack 125hd mig on 0.035 flux core wire set on the highest amperage (E) on wire feed speed around 1.5-2

A buddy of mine wants to put an S13 T25 on his 99 Miata (JDM 1.6L) so I will be using the Longevity 200sx to tig that up when we get all the materials