http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p=35738015&postcount=2

I believe custom knuckles are the correct way to address the 2G handling issues, especially lowered 2G's. Also, they would need to be steel alloy, aluminum won't work.
Products the DSM crowd would like to see made - DSM Forums
Basically the the hole for the axles needs to moved up.

How much would you guys be willing to pay for uprights like the Moore pieces?

For me, as little as possible. Most likely I'll end up trying to make mine.

lowell said:

How much would you guys be willing to pay for uprights like the Moore pieces?

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Are you thinking of making a few sets? I believe custom uprights are OK in Street Modified (if I'm reading the rules correctly). Between this and a 2G brake master cylinder bracing I'll start saving my pennies.

The common answer . As little as possible. Iatnsome point I will be having some made. On a track car 7075 is the answer for material to build them out of. As for rubbing the fender area just cut that out and make them clear.

A pair of machined knuckle in low volume production milled out of 7075 is going to run around 1500-2000 a pair. Not cheap but not far off what Magnus charges and way better.

If I make some it will be for myself, at least the initial first set. I lack time which is why I can not commit to anything, at least till "my" first set would be finished. After this it only becomes setting up for doing production runs. What I do have is an unbelievable access to to some serious hi-tech manufacturing equipment.
I don't think 7075 would be a good choice for our 2G style knuckles because of the stresses involved. My crude preliminary analysis are indicating that the upright for the upper ball joint will most likely fail pretty darn quick under heavy lateral loading (and there's a lot of weight to throw around on the front end).

The upper ball joint first? Thats different than I expected. Can you share the details of the analysis? What did you find? Can you explain the problem in more detail?

It would just be a matter of having enough cross section area in the long vertical run up to the upper balljoint.
How about relocate the upper control arm inside the wheel?
Beyond the Dyno: Team America World Time Attack - ARK Design's BNR32 Skyline GT-R Part 2

Yes bring the details. I'm all ears. We planned on doing FEA on them before they where built. If you have done some already please share.

Hello,

Probably Mello's conclusion is that some knuckles made out of 7075 wont be strong enough for taking all the under heavy braking/lateral forces on the curbed vertical part of the spindle/knuckle that run to the upper ball joint correct me if I'm wrong Mello.

I was planning of having some made out of 7075, and my fabricator said the design of this knuckle would be recommended to be made out of Steel alloy instead (what i had in my mine but i'm no expert on materials), because of what i mentioned above.
My request was move all the ball joint point and inch lower for some obvious reasons (including upper) and adding 15mm more of tire clearance(i am aware of the rubbing inside the fender problem, i cut that part and reshape it before putting my 265s and i went extra 20mm), also because of this the vertical curbed part of the knuckle would be more curbed leading to another problem (if using to weak of a material) more prone to brake, so I'm having mine made out of steel for this season, next year probably relocate the upper arm lower than the tire inside the wheel well, to be able to make them out of aluminum.

I had been doing my research for more than 2.5 years know about this matter, all other options i had lead me to a dead end or not giving me what i really want.

lowell said:

It would just be a matter of having enough cross section area in the long vertical run up to the upper balljoint.
How about relocate the upper control arm inside the wheel?
Beyond the Dyno: Team America World Time Attack - ARK Design's BNR32 Skyline GT-R Part 2

Click to expand...

I talked with Kevin about having the whole system inside the wheel, the issue is the upright needs to be bolt in to reach enough market to make the tooling costs worth while. I was just thinking when I get to that point I can machine it down and mount lower. Some people have rules as well about moving pickups too far and these need to cover a broad market.

I have to respectfully disagree about the UBJ load.
By far the highest loads on the UBJ should be brake torque and the moment is reduced with the taller spindle I was way more worried about flex in the LCA attachment, you can grow the spindle there fore-aft to support brake torque... as long as you keep it clear of the damper with high camber angles. With a billet piece you can make any shape you want. I dont have any issues with the material selection. A little FEA work and theres no reason we shouldn't be able to achieve a piece that is stiffer, lighter and stronger than the original and thats just as important as fixing the geometry. My $.02

Yup, nothing wrong with aluminum as long as it's done right. I just did a set of R32 GT-R wheel bearings and the front uprights are beefy looking and very lightweight aluminum pieces.

Definitely agree on the stock upright being weak as I bent one trying to remove an axle stub once.

gixxerdrew said:

I talked with Kevin about having the whole system inside the wheel, the issue is the upright needs to be bolt in to reach enough market to make the tooling costs worth while. I was just thinking when I get to that point I can machine it down and mount lower. Some people have rules as well about moving pickups too far and these need to cover a broad market.

I have to respectfully disagree about the UBJ load.
By far the highest loads on the UBJ should be brake torque and the moment is reduced with the taller spindle I was way more worried about flex in the LCA attachment, you can grow the spindle there fore-aft to support brake torque... as long as you keep it clear of the damper with high camber angles. With a billet piece you can make any shape you want. I dont have any issues with the material selection. A little FEA work and theres no reason we shouldn't be able to achieve a piece that is stiffer, lighter and stronger than the original and thats just as important as fixing the geometry. My $.02

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Thanks for the info drew.

Thought I would bring this back to life as I thought it was a good conversation. Just curious if any of the guys that were planning to get custom knuckles have and what your impressions are. Also curious if anyone knows if anything happened with the control arms from the Canadian forum?
One final thing I'm curious about is if anyone has tried to see if the 3g front subframe fits? Looking at pics they look pretty similar. Considering 3g guys bolt the rear 2g subframe on for the awd swap, I wouldn't be too surprised if they kept the mounting locations the same between the generations. I realize that even if it bolts on there, there would most likely be some modifications needed, rear motor mount bolt holes, north/south support bar mounting location and possible transfer case clearance. However those seem like things fairly easy to take care of. Then there is also the question of steering rack compatibility, would a 2g bolt on to the subframe or would the 3g rack mate up to the steering column u joint? Anyone know if the 3g uses a quicker ratio rack? Possible upgrade potential? Probably wishful thinking there. The final thing that comes to mind is sway bar fitment, if 2g fits or limited to 3g sways. Seems like this would be the easiest way to ditch the rear LCA if it can be made to work.