I have just set up my blackbox ecu in my 1997 eclipse. It is ready to be tuned. Today at the junkyard i came across a 3 bar GM MAP sensor. On ecuflash under "Version and Extras Info", I see "Speed Density". It has a "N" for which i believe means no. Does this mean my version does not accept speed density. Also Do i wire MAP into MDP sensor plug or do I wire it from the wires at the maf. I am a little confused on the set up if someone could explain it a little more in depth. I cannot find much info on this with the 98/99 ecus, I find more with evo ecus but im not sure if it is the same.

Also have a question about wiring. Do you need to wire ground and positive or just run pin to ecu?

goldeninja20 said:

Bump. Also have a question about wiring. Do you need to wire ground and positive or just run pin to ecu?

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goldeninja20 said:

BUMP AGAIN. Can I have some feedback, there is NO info on running speed density on ecuflash. How hard is tuning, How is it wired? Same as evo? Could someone help me!?

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Bumping posts looking for answers won't get you anywhere and it's against our sites policies. The main reason you aren't getting your questions answered is because you're posting a more in-depth question about tuning software in the Newbie forum.

I'm moving your thread to the tuning section for you, next time I suggest being a bit more strategic about where you post your questions to get the answers you're looking for. Thanks.

gofer said:

Bumping posts looking for answers won't get you anywhere and it's against our sites policies. The main reason you aren't getting your questions answered is because you're posting a more in-depth question about tuning software in the Newbie forum.

I'm moving your thread to the tuning section for you, next time I suggest being a bit more strategic about where you post your questions to get the answers you're looking for. Thanks.

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Sorry, it is just aggrivating not getting answers, when there is multiple people who most likely know thw answer. I honestly didnt even think of posting in another section, I will be more aware of where i post. Thank you for moving the thread to the tuning section. Appreciate it.

You need the speed density rom. As far as the wireing I have no clue I am looking to go SD some time this year on my 99 ecu.

MAP wires into the MDP circuit. You'll kick a CEL without deactivating the EGR stuff. It used the MDP to check EGR function.

You need a speed density version of your ROM to run SD.

The wiring is found on ecmlinks website, and as stated you'll need to purchase the rom. Might as well go big maps with it well worth it.

colbyc said:

The wiring is found on ecmlinks website, and as stated you'll need to purchase the rom. Might as well go big maps with it well worth it.

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I already have big maps. Where do i purchase the rom? Where is the iat sensor wired into? I understand the map sensor is wired into the mdp, When i purchase the rom will everything become more clear? Just wire in map sensor, iat into maf sensor wiring i believe (a link on which wires would be great), and purchase the rom and i shouldnt have a problem?

Found the link for wiring on Ceddy's website. But i still cannot find the rom, and also i am looking into boost control, but im not sure where to purchase the roms. I am not sure how roms work or what they really are

colbyc said:

CeddyMods DSM 1v9C Speed Density « ceddy.us

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Before I purchase, What do i do with the download? Will i have to redo my tune? Also, I do not see Boost control in ceddy's store, Does this mean that he never finished the boost control ability?

I got all wired up, without a problem. I am now tuning. I have decided to attempt to get a good tune (just want to bump my idle to 1000) before i run speed density. My only problem is after i switched the ecu, i get low rpm misfires all over the place, it is stuttering very bad. I messed with P0300 Periphery bits, no help at all. I would like to solve this issue so i can stay running the blackbox ecu. antilag works no problem, along with NLTS.

Misfires while running MAF or SD?

It was while running MAF. I think it was because i had base timing terminal set to 1. I put it to 0 (and i changed a few other things) and i no longer have any misfires. Runs perfect now. I realized the map i picked up was only a 2 bar gm map, is it not safe to run it if i plan on staying under 15 psi? Can I even run it or must it be a 3 bar for ceddymods to work?

Also, I cannot find anything about people running a 3 inch gm maf (blow through set up) without maft and just by using ecuflash. Is it possible? i may go this route rather than trying to find a 3 bar map

Just get a 3 bar GM MAP. You still need a MAF-T with a GM MAF.

I am having trouble reaching the target idle i set. My iac is showing movement in evoscan. I set base timing, and set the biss screw. my idle will raise to 1700 after i get a nice idle and then.i drive it. Cold start up is idling perfect at target. Could it have to do with tps? what should it read in evoscan?

goldeninja20 said:

I am having trouble reaching the target idle i set. My iac is showing movement in evoscan. I set base timing, and set the biss screw. my idle will raise to 1700 after i get a nice idle and then.i drive it. Cold start up is idling perfect at target. Could it have to do with tps? what should it read in evoscan?

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From what i have done to my car, I can tell you this, first fix ALL boost leaks.

Only then will you be able to accurately and affectively set your idle. You will not only need to set your idle in ecuflash, but you will need to use the BISS screw to fine tune it and use evoscan to reset your ISC sensor after setting the BISS. Otherwise, you may have stalling issues with the ISC motor out of its usual range.

Tiki2777 said:

From what i have done to my car, I can tell you this, first fix ALL boost leaks.

Only then will you be able to accurately and affectively set your idle. You will not only need to set your idle in ecuflash, but you will need to use the BISS screw to fine tune it and use evoscan to reset your ISC sensor after setting the BISS. Otherwise, you may have stalling issues with the ISC motor out of its usual range.

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No boost leaks, checked when i changed ecu. When i select setting biss screw in evoscan, it forces me to unscrew the biss ALOT. but then i let it idle and my idle wont drop below 2k rpm. Your saying set the biss screw then set iac? how would you do this?

It will indeed idle good after adjusting biss. When i start driving the rpm starts to hang around 2k rpm. Then it will not drop down and when i stop it stays at 2k. Could it be because i increased the timing in that area a little? Should i grab another iac to be safe. I dont understand why the iac wont just close more to make the rpm drop. Instead it moves VERY slowly. like 1 step every 30 seconds.

Also having an issue reading check engine light through evoscan. Getting error "J2534 Read Error - 16". I have a check engine light even though i set most of the peripherys to 0.

The issue with the error code seems to have went away. It ended up being code for coolant circuit issue. I cannot seem to understand any of the idle settings besides target idle. The car does not seem to want to reach target idle even though i set the biss screw and adjusted it. I would like to know how to adjust all the iac settings.

If the idle is staying high after you've been driving at speed and you're certain there are no vacuum/boost leaks then odds are it's the throttle cable holding open the TB. Fairly simple test really, next time you're coming to a stop and it's idling high check the log and see what the throttle position is as it should read 0%. If it's higher than that something's hanging up and holding open the throttle.

Evoscan will report closed as 10-13%. Logging the throttle closed switch and the IAC steps would be more useful.

knochgoon24 said:

Evoscan will report closed as 10-13%. Logging the throttle closed switch and the IAC steps would be more useful.

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Correct. If you are having issues with higher idle after it settles, then i would make sure to either tighten the BISS more or see if it is not another issue similar to what i had. My FIAV was way out of factory adjustment and would constantly bounce my idle and high idle etc, so i just went and did the free and honestly best method of bypassing it. This theoretically also is MUCH better for the car considering you are no longer running HOT coolant through the throttlebody and thus heating the aircharge (doing the opposite job of our intercoolers). So... just some things to think about/diagnose/try. This thing can be a bi*** to solve but GL and we are here to help. I myself have to fix a damn air leak through my injector seals...

knochgoon24 said:

Evoscan will report closed as 10-13%. Logging the throttle closed switch and the IAC steps would be more useful.

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I thought 2g did not have throttle closed switches. You are refering to "idle position switch" in evoscan, right? I thought it was in the tps. My iac steps move very slowly too. I was thinking that maybe the tps wasnt adjusted correct and the ecu did not think it was idling. My only problem is that no one ever gives an exact number on what evoscan should be reading at idle. I believe it reads 12.7 right now.

Tiki2777 said:

Correct. If you are having issues with higher idle after it settles, then i would make sure to either tighten the BISS more or see if it is not another issue similar to what i had. My FIAV was way out of factory adjustment and would constantly bounce my idle and high idle etc, so i just went and did the free and honestly best method of bypassing it. This theoretically also is MUCH better for the car considering you are no longer running HOT coolant through the throttlebody and thus heating the aircharge (doing the opposite job of our intercoolers). So... just some things to think about/diagnose/try. This thing can be a bi*** to solve but GL and we are here to help. I myself have to fix a damn air leak through my injector seals...

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Already did the fiav mod, so it is not doing anything. Since i removed my fiav does that mean i should put my "desired ISCV initial step" higher?

I am mostly trying to figure out how the "Desired ISCV initial step" and "ISC steps vs. load" work. I think my problem lies in one of the 2. The ISC steps vs load table only goes up to 40 load percentage, which is pretty much my idle. I feel when i change the settings, nothing happens. Should the IAC steps be moving as slow as they do?

Sorry for all the questions, there is little info on ecuflash for 2gs (everything is for evos and they have different settings to mess with).. I appreciate all the help though.

I was on my phone and couldn't look up what the thing was in EvoScan. Idle Position Switch is correct.

You should see it switch from 0 to 1 as soon as you crack the throttle open. I forget what the ID parameter is for it, and I don't have it listed in my EvoScan setup file anymore. Not sure how I lost that one.

knochgoon24 said:

I was on my phone and couldn't look up what the thing was in EvoScan. Idle Position Switch is correct.

You should see it switch from 0 to 1 as soon as you crack the throttle open. I forget what the ID parameter is for it, and I don't have it listed in my EvoScan setup file anymore. Not sure how I lost that one.

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I pretty much have to floor it in order for evoscan to read 1. i can 2 step at half throttle and it will still read 0. Should i replace it to be on the safe side? i am also still confused about desired iscv initial step.

Try to test the TPS first.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/323258-how-do-i-test-my-4-wire-tps.html#post151742361