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Not starting/fuel injection Problem

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Terminator2026

10+ Year Contributor
45
0
Sep 2, 2012
lewes, Delaware
(1995 tsi) So to get to the point car was running fine, changed altenator belt and car started idleing like shit and boost gauge wired into presure regulator showed a change in pressure from -23 to -15. after about 1 week of shity idle, car dies. Now the car will start if i floor it and it will stay BARLEY running for all of 2 seconds and cut itself off. check engine light for an 02 sensor is on. Has to atmoshpere bov and front mount intercooler with possible boost leaks. has aftermarket exhuast and other then that stock as far as i know. any information on how to 1. jump the fue lpump 2. where the fuel pump relay is would be helpful in my indevours.
 
The running like shit is most likely becaus your O2 is bad. Without a way to compensate for your bov ventimg to atmosphere your car is inturn running rich. I suggest recirculating your Bov and replacing your O2. That should remedy your idle problems.
 
But the car was runing fine with the bov and it had the idle problem before the o2 went bad, also why would it start then shut off after 2 seconds? like a literal 1 missispi 2 missipi and then total shut off at about 4000 rpm
 
it has an exuast 3 inch all the way from turbo, looks like some emissions thing is disconected (catch can of some sort) fmi thats not put on very well and other then that idk i bought it modded with those. now i also forgot to mention in order for it to start i had to jump the relay terminal for the starter relay to kick it on. and also i can keep the car running by "flicking it to start again". whats wierder is with the relay in and the green wire for the starter solinoid connected as well as the fuel pump hard wired to run it wont start or even kick. as soon as i jump the starter relay it starts kicking again.
 
I have a feeling I'm going to regret posting here, but I just want to know why you can't use the ignition switch? Or did you "buy" it hotwired? -j/k

First step is verifying the timing marks on the cams and the crank.
Second step is boost leak testing.
Third step is realizing and then rectifying whatever you accidentally did when you put the alternator belt on.
Fourth step is replacing the O2 sensor and recirculating the BOV.
 
The second day i had the car it didnt want to start, last question before i get to work is what wires go to the starter relay
Food for thought the belt i took of was badisicly off the tensioner and shorter looking then the one i put on. Im going to check for compression also and if it has that im going to just jeep kn chugging
 
ok so timeline of problems, 2nd day i own the car it decideds it dosnt want to start, i end up trouble shooting the starter and all the good stuff and just left it with a jumped relay. 2 months later altinator belt starts squeling hard, so i replace the belt and it idle like shit. about 2 weeks after that ,my dad the retarded drives my car when one of the intercooling pipes fell off and a day after that it has trouble starting and eventaully wont start. check engine light went off for 02 sensor and im checking the plugs compression and timing today

the key wont crank with the starter relay on only if i jump it, and if i directly hok the starter solinoid to the battery to kick the starter on it wont start or kick. it wil only run when the key is in the "starting" position on the colum.
 
Get the battery charged and load tested. Remove the jumpers on any relays.

Here are the diagrams, but I doubt you need them.
 

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Changed my Alternator belt and i had a bad engine idle problem, Could i of hit something on the Engine Beside the alternator belt/ whats on that side of the engine. and also could a bad alternator cause idling problems because my lights flickered pretty steadily before the belt change.
 
Changed my Alternator belt and i had a bad engine idle problem, Could i of hit something on the Engine Beside the alternator belt/ whats on that side of the engine. and also could a bad alternator cause idling problems because my lights flickered pretty steadily before the belt change.
Your 95 has both the CAS and CPS on that side of the engine, either of those will cause a no start.

Yes an alternator with incorrect output or a battery that is bad can cause lights to flicker at idle. Take the battery (and alternator if you want) to the parts store to have it tested.
 
The stock Cam Angle Sensor on a 2Ga is located under the intake cam sprocket and reads off of the trigger wheel on the sprocket. Any 4G63 head other than a 95-96 will have it on the other end of the intake cam towards the transmission.

Crank Position Sensor is behind the crank damper.
 
I think the timing looks totaly fine ill just have to sell the car for 5 dollars to the local grovery market as a pottery ornement.

....jokes aside having SUCH horrible timing could shut/brake other things off?(its at least 3 teeth are my valves ok?)
 

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it still trys to start though is the odd thing, if i do a comp test and it checks out should i just do a belt change?
 
Get a new OEM tensioner as well, but I'll be very surprised if at least half of the valves aren't bent. If that picture is with #1 at TDC, your exhaust valves are surely done.

You might consider a whole new head, after bending valves it's not uncommon to crack the head and you will at least want the guides replaced. Pistons may have significant damage also.

After you have the head resurfaced and replace the valve guides you'd also need to do a valve grind on new valve seats too. Call the machine shop to check prices and then add up the machining expenses along with the parts before you decide which route to take.
 
That's a higher than normal value, did you re-time the engine first? Standard value for a 2G turbo is 178psi. You'd need 9.25+:1 pistons to hit the 200psi mark. A leakdown test will be required AFTER the engine is put back in time, slightly bent valves don't always show a difference on a compression test.
 
Just curious as to how it's fixed if it was off by 3+ teeth by just slapping on a tensioner... I'm still learning so am I missing something?...
 
Sorry for late reply. Ill explain as best i can. The belt as far as i know was still in mildly time, becuase the pulley the tensioner is supposed to tension was not tightened correctly and as such came loose. when that happend the belt would buckle on the cam gears cause it to come out of time, but it wasn't installed properly so it didn't work? Other way i had to completely remove the old belt, and put the car back into time using the timing marks on the car. If your attempting to do it yourself, id highly recomend useing BOTH of the specialty tools needed. one to remove the tensioner/add it , and the other to tighten down the pull itself.
 
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