Removing GST drive shafts

ElectroPanda · Jan 27, 2013

I'm completely new to working on an Eclipse GST. How do I remove the Drive shafts (step by step) so I can remove my transmission? Reason is to Install rear main seal.

1995gstdsm · Jan 27, 2013

A Haynes manual might be your best friend right now LOL

. Or some sort of factory service manual

1995gstdsm · Jan 27, 2013

Im not trying to be a smart ass by not answering your question, but with something as involved like that is, it will help you in every aspect of working on that car.
They give you step by step instruction as well as valuable tips to help, not to mention all of your much needed torque specs

mantega4g63 · Jan 27, 2013

jack car up, support with jack stands
remove wheel
remove cv axle (or driveshaft) nut going through the wheel bearing (should be 32mm)
loosen lateral arm ball joint, separate strut fork
pull axle out of transmission

this will do you a LOT of good if you have any experience working on cars

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGDw73GoIeE&list=PL4B97C16D423317DD&index=1]Trans & Clutch 1 - Remove Transmission - YouTube[/ame]

DSM Drivetrain & Clutch Tech - YouTube

spyderdrifter · Jan 27, 2013

You'll have to first disconnect the front wheel hubs from the axle. Do this by unbolting the suspension linkage. Then just pry the axle out of the transmission. Repeat for both sides. In the previous post's video, it shows seperating the lower lateral ball joint. I don't recomment this because if the ball joint itself is bad, you will not be able to tighten the joint back in and will need an entirely new control arm. I went through that already. The arm is fairly inexpensive, but the headache from it is what sucks. I remove the bolt from the botom of the strut fork, and the one that links the control arm to the frame, Thus leaving the ball joint alone completely.

As 1995gstdsm said, do get a manual of some sort. It will remove most of the guess work for most repair issues that you'll encounter as a first timer to DSMs. Its a very valuable asset to have. Also, not to throw in the "search feature" topic, but do use the search just to explore the areas you can as a new member. Once you get the 30 posts, you'll havce even more to search through, but know your way around the forum prior to that will help.

ElectroPanda · Jan 27, 2013

thanks for the information guys. I have five years working on Chevrolets but just making sure because if i do this again or someone ask i can give them the run down :thumb:

mantega4g63 · Jan 29, 2013

spyderdrifter said:
You'll have to first disconnect the front wheel hubs from the axle. Do this by unbolting the suspension linkage. Then just pry the axle out of the transmission. Repeat for both sides. In the previous post's video, it shows seperating the lower lateral ball joint. I don't recomment this because if the ball joint itself is bad, you will not be able to tighten the joint back in and will need an entirely new control arm. I went through that already. The arm is fairly inexpensive, but the headache from it is what sucks. I remove the bolt from the botom of the strut fork, and the one that links the control arm to the frame, Thus leaving the ball joint alone completely.

As 1995gstdsm said, do get a manual of some sort. It will remove most of the guess work for most repair issues that you'll encounter as a first timer to DSMs. Its a very valuable asset to have. Also, not to throw in the "search feature" topic, but do use the search just to explore the areas you can as a new member. Once you get the 30 posts, you'll havce even more to search through, but know your way around the forum prior to that will help.

if you put a load on the ball joint part of the lateral arm going to the hub you'll find the ball joint will stay in place while you tighten down the nut

dsmcurse · Jan 30, 2013

^^^^^^^yep^^^^^^^ a 19mm socket sittin on the jack is perfect for this. i use a 19mm 3/8'' drive socket, sit it on the pad of the jack upside down, jack the sockect/jack-pad up into place, position it perfect under the ball joint, jack the sucker up a few pumps, and you can now tighten the nut down on that baby very tight.

i use this method even if the ball joint isnt worn or bad at all, i put pressure on it like this as a small insurance policy that i actually get the nut tightened down to a good amount

luv2rallye · Jan 30, 2013

On the 2g, you don't have to remove the axels from the hubs at all! You also don't have to remove ANY ball joints! Just unbolt the 2 lower arms at the chassis end and remove the damper fork bolt and the entire assembly will swing out far enough to pull the axles out of the tranny (pry axle out the first inch with a flat blade screwdriver between the inner CV housing and tranny on each side of that housing 180 apart). Move tranny axle end out of tranny and down where it won't bump into anything. Done it MANY times.

Here the control arms, damper fork, and driveshaft are shown disconnected: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=142961&d=1343792826

Dsmkauai · Jan 30, 2013

^^Exactly how I've done it for years as well! I even swapped a snapped axle at the drag strip by myself in about 10-15 min, with only a jack, axle nut socket and a 17mm

gst noob · Jan 30, 2013

The easy way in my opinion is to take the 3 14mm nuts off the Tom of the strut tower than take out the 2 17mm nuts on either side of that. Than take out the long 17mm bolt on the lower controll arm. Next the 2 17mm bolts under the car for the trailing arm. Undo the 14mm nut on the stearing knuckle and pry the joint out. Last pop the cv joint out and the whole front assembly comes off an is out of the way! You should probly keep a jack under the hub at all times. :thumb:

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Removing GST drive shafts

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