Are you talking about the two bolts that connect the knuckle to the strut?

I'm not 100% sure which bolts on the knuckle your trying to remove?

Are you using an impact? It does wonders.

Um... not there at the moment, but i'm going to say knuckle to top of wheel, not strut. Yes, my milwaukee 3/4" 18v cordless with 700 ft/lbs "breakaway" torque, my biggest baddest tool, so far.

I'm just a little concerned about what is actually freezing them. If it's just the age then I guess I just have a lot of pounding and torching to do. But if it's something else I don't want to break anything

I can't think of any vehicle that has the knuckle bolted to the top of the wheel.

If you are working on a 93 DSM you would have two bolts holding the knuckle to the strut, one nut on the ball joint, one nut on the tie rod, and two bolts for the caliper bracket. If it has ABS then it would also have one or two small bolts in the ABS sensor.

sounds like the two holding the strut to the knuckle. Post some pictures up, it will greatly help

I'M sorry, I meant the strut to wheel bolts. Still not that familiar with these parts

If you're talking abou the two bolts that attach the strut to the knuckle can you get the nut off the bolt? If you can do that then put the inpact on the bolt. Spit it in place then knock it out with a hammer if it just doesn't come out on it's own.

K, I'll keep trying. Thanks

If that doesn't work that sucker is severely rusted into the knuckle.

promise me the holes in the strut AREN'T threaded. I've been bashing the crap out of it. This car IS as my mechanic put it "a rust bucket".

There not.

Check it out. This is the toughest beaten I've given a piece of metal in my life. It looks like a crime scene or... porno doesn't it?

It wont come out even with the wheel turned straight? My talon was rusted way worse and they came right out

This is why the OEm bolts have points on them. Use antiseize on reassembly. All else fails get new hub assemblies and I'm guessing you're getting new struts anyway.

PB blaster and a torch work wonders in this situation, though be careful the torch.

Pry bars and hammers help too.

I was able to get mine out with a hammer and PB blaster, thankfully.

Anti Sieze is a blessing. Everything on my 95 is brand new and I put anti sieze on every single suspension bolt. I will never go through a frozen bolt again

Better hope all that anti-sneeze doesn't allow some bolts to back out down the road. To much or on the wrong bolts could allow them to not torque right or just loosen because of vibrations.

I never went heavy with it, just a slight dab on the threads. Also, only on bolts that have lock washers. And I torqued every arm to spec, with 71lbs being the least torque for arm to knuckle bolts, and all the way up to 104lbs for the trailing arm. I think she'll stay

*109 trailing arm to body
*94 for trailing to knuckle, my bad

The trick is, a big hammer and hours of consistent beating on it with lubrication.. I must've spent four hours per knuckle and tons of wd-40 before mine broke free.. But I put a piece of folded up cardboard on the knuckle before I went to beating on it..

Jayson

Yeah, got em all like pic above. Fun stuff.