Intermittent loss of power, code p0006?

zandom23 · Jan 19, 2013

So I was doing research on a couple different sites looking for a fix to this problem. I have a 95 Eclipse GSX that I just purchased. While driving the car back I noticed the car would run fine for about 10 minutes, then bog down and have no acceleration. This would last until I shut the car off and restarted it. Once I got the car back to my house it sat for a couple days in which I had to go jump start it. The car seemed to run fine for a bit after this, until I went on an hour long trip. Once I got on the highway it proceeded to bog down and loose speed. So I pulled over, shut the car off, restarted it and was able to drive another 30 minutes with no problems. Even on my way back from my trip there was no problems. I have a air/fuel gauge hooked up and when the car experiences problems the gauge 18.2 to 19.8, the code I got off the car is P0006, Fuel Shutoff Valve A Control Circuit Low. Since its intermittent like this I'm wanting to assume its a loose plug or wire? If you have questions please let me know, I've included all I can think of.

ScuzziOne · Jan 21, 2013

I had a bad oxygen sensor do something like this to me once many years ago. Car would bog down and then suddenly correct and run right. Caused some excitement when it happened at stop lights because I'd start pushing the accelerator more and more as the car failed to accelerate properly, then the oxygen sensor would suddenly correct and the car would suddenly take off which would then cause me to have to slam on the brakes to keep from rear-ending the car in front of me! Took six or more months before it ever threw a code and dealership kept trying to tell me I "just wasn't used to the turbo lag..."

Guess the basic gist is that if the oxygen sensor fails outright, then the car throws a code; otherwise, if the oxygen sensor output just goes a bit flaky the ECU won't catch it. It's something to check anyway...

rydereclipse · Jan 21, 2013

Is that a wideband a/f you have hooked up to a stock o2 sensor? If it is, try disconnecting it and getting the wiring back to "normal". In addition check to see if you o2 sensor is shot. To me, sounds like that "area" is the culprit.

zandom23 · Jan 21, 2013

I'll have to wait till this blizzard gets over with to check it out. I'm not entirely sure what all has been done to it which is not very helpful in this situation. What really confuses me is that when it starts acting up like this there is nothing I can do to correct it unless I shut the vehicle off. I tried accelerating through it, tried letting it work out the problem by sitting.... But I'll check out the O2 Sensor and let you guys know what I find, thanks

ChiTownHussla · Jan 21, 2013

Check the FPR solenoid on the firewall

Zack Huffman · Jan 21, 2013

What ECU is in this car?

There is no ECU controlled fuel shut off valve in a 2G DSM. The FPR solenoid momentarily raises fuel rail pressure when activated, which is only on hot restarts. The only "shut off" valves are the shut off valve in the filler neck to let you know the tank is full during refueling and the crash shut off valve at the top of the tank that shuts off fuel if the valve (vehicle) is turned upside down.

My FSM has no code numerically lower than P0100, so I'd have to assume either you have a bad ECU or a swapped ECU from another model.

You might inspect the tank crash valve, but I doubt that's the problem.

luv2rallye · Jan 22, 2013

^ I was wondering the same thing.

zandom23 · Jan 22, 2013

The thing that sucks is I'm still waiting for the paperwork on this car so I know everything that was done to it. I'm basically sitting here scratching my head cause i have no clue what has been done. I'm still not entirely sure how to go about all this except to check the areas you guys suggested here. Its very possible its a different ECU, any way to check to see? I'm a newb to these vehicles

Zack Huffman · Jan 22, 2013

Remove the panel to the right of the gas pedal on the console, pull the ECU out from under the dash and verify the number on the case along with the E2T number on the ECU's harness connector.

zandom23 · Jan 26, 2013

So I checked the numbers on the ECU, E2T61672 MD312464. Also after pulling the ECU out without unplugging any of the connectors the car after startup had no check engine light and ran fine..... Is it possible its a loose wire in the connector? Possibly an O2 wire or something like that? I'm thinking about driving it till there's an issue then seeing if i can move the wires to get the car working again, is that a good or bad idea? Another thing that's irritating is that from what I saw there's supposed to be three screws or bolts holding the ECU in place.....I found one that was loosely screwed in. So now I got to find some bolts to fit in there. I'm wondering if it just bouncing around is causing the issue.

Zack Huffman · Jan 26, 2013

That's an EPROM ECU. Open the case and check to see if it's been socketed and if so, what markings are on the chip in it.

zandom23 · Jan 27, 2013

So opened it up and took a picture to upload, red chip with ECMlink, v3 from what it looks like.

cbyamd · Jan 27, 2013

Well thats an awesome surprise. :thumb:

zandom23 · Jan 27, 2013

I think what I need to do is go over the car and write down everything I can on whats done to this car, I'm very irritated with the previous owner because I can't get any straight answers out of him. Any ideas on specifics I should check out? I'm going t try and make a list of what I can see

cbyamd · Jan 27, 2013

First right off hand what do you know it has done to it or better of what do you know is not stock about it?

zandom23 · Jan 27, 2013

Ok..... since I'm a little new to all this I am gonna upload some pics, no clue on aftermarket parts for these cars. I have done a little research on some of the stuff but I'm a newb. Can anyone help Identify these parts? Also I found that the previous owner did not have bolts in the spark plug boot plate. It was just flopping around as i drove. So I replaced the ones I could, found the bolts in the ashtray, still missing one of them. So I'll see if that fixes my problem since it happened again today after 15 mins of driving.

Zack Huffman · Jan 27, 2013

Get in touch with Tom or Dave and send the ECU in for them to inspect/repair. While you're at it, get a cable and ask to have the ECMLink account associated with that chip transferred over to you.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for this car?
It appears to have several top dollar / high power upgrades. That catch can is a fail, but otherwise nicely modded.

zandom23 · Jan 27, 2013

Sounds like a plan, I'm planning on not driving the car for awhile so it'll work out. I ended up paying 4600 and trading a 98 Grand prix GTP for the car, he wanted 7 grand originally

Zack Huffman · Jan 27, 2013

zandom23 said:
he wanted 7 grand originally

Then there's probably a bit more there for you to find. Drivetrain/trans mods are likely. Depending on the condition of the shell and the condition of the GTP, of course, you got a good deal.

zandom23 said:
I'm going to try and make a list of what I can see

I'm not the best at picking details out of pics but other than the obvious dynatek ignition, Magnus intake mani and Link V3, I see:

Looks like a 1G head, definitely a 1G CAS, possibly a 6 bolt engine swap.
Whatever the turbo is, it has a T3 hotside, since that's the only mani Turbonetics made with the 4G63 head flange.
Looks like a 38mm external wastegate.
FMIC, 2.5" piping.
Aeromotive AFPR, custom rail and -6AN filter to rail line kit.
Emissions, cruise and AC equipment deleted.
Battery relocated to... trunk?

zandom23 · Jan 27, 2013

Yeah, battery is in the trunk, new paint job which he spent 5 grand on, I know most of the stuff is warrantied, He was supposed to get me all the paperwork along with a warrantied turbo that blew on him. I'm still shocked you could pick all that out, I really had no clue, I'm still trying to learn everything. Did some research on the dynatek, still can't really understand how to use it though so I haven't really messed with it. Interior wasn't in great shape but I'm fixing that up. There was something he mentioned about a 6 bolt transmission swap too? Also, sent a message to the guys at DSMlink, they said its most likely not an ECM issue because if it was the car wouldn't run at all usually. They want me to hook it up to the program to see what the cars doing. So my next purchase is gonna be the usb for the car.

bradselph · Jan 27, 2013

delta448 said:
Looks like a 1G head, definitely a 1G CAS, possibly a 6 bolt engine swap.

Wrong its a 2g head judging from the waterpipe and unless the head was modded to be put on a 6 bolt its likely a 7 bolt.

I think you need to find a local seasoned dsmer to look over your car and tell you whats all been done.

Try taking a overall picture of the engine bay and we could tell you more about it.

Zack Huffman · Jan 27, 2013

bradselph said:
its a 2g head

Good call. Missed that on the water pipe.

zandom23 · Jan 28, 2013

Ok, took some new pictures

bradselph · Jan 28, 2013

Well pretty much the big obvious stuff has already been covered,

It has a hks ssqv blow off valve real or fake i dont know, its on ecmlink with speed density.

The radiator looks like a ebay core, the advance auto intake is kinda a killer but i guess it works.

Your problem could have come from the missing bolts on the coil on plug setup for sure. You should remove the coils and check to see if there was any signs of arcing on the tip of the plug from the plate being loose and while your at it remove the plugs and see if you can see the top of the piston to see if you have a built engine.

zandom23 · Feb 5, 2013

I haven't had a chance to look at the spark plugs, cars been sitting for a week now. I did just recently get my cable for DSMlink and the program. How can I tell if the car has a different MAF? It would be easy to figure all this out if the previous owner would respond to my messages and calls. I'm honestly tempted to drive the three hours to get answers on this car.

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