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Billet compressor wheels

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Got my wheel in from n9racing a few days ago but just now went to the post office to pick it up. Both the compressor housing and wheel came in in record time all the way from China, I was impressed with the shipping.

I guess I should've paid more attention to the pics when buying this though, I thought I was getting the KTS style wheel with the larger blades. Oh well, my turbo is currently an 18g, so should still be a good upgrade for cheap.

Heres a pic of the wheel in the housing I will be using!
 

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my points will not be well taken. but whatever.
IMHO. the KTS for 135 shipped or even more would have been worth the extra coin over this cheap ebay 20g. that poorly machine blade does not exite me at all. I have not seen any maxed out results yet for either wheel but my guess would be we will see very close to 500 whp from the KTS wheel while this ebay billet 20g (dont know who makes it) will likely struggle to hit 450whp . I would have chosen the KTS 18g over it as well. I have that wheel here on it kills the mitsu 20g in blade size. weighs just 59 grams too.

whoever stated there is only two places making billet wheels isnt very obsevant. I have seen like a dozen different billet 20g designs now. there are cnc machines all over the world cranking wheels out.



dont know what you are saying? the two wheels in the pics are 20g. the one on left is original 20g. the one on right is KTS 20g (non extended tip version)

The one on the left definitly doesnt look like an MHI 20g wheel.

May I ask where you are ordering this KTS wheel? I cant find a place that sells them for 135 shipped
 
I also jumped on the 120$ compressor wheel from N9 on ebay. I got it today and it looks like a solid piece.

I measured and weighed the stock 20g cast wheel and this billet compressor which by the way looks identical to the 300$ + snail turbo compressor wheel.

On my scale they weigh:

Cast:70.8g
Billet:62.3 Seller said it weighs 62g so Im guessing my scale is pretty accurate
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Pretty happy about my purchase. I do like the look of the KTS wheel but for the price of this one I will run it. This is going on my DD automatic, with a tdo5h with a clip.
 
KTS Reverse 16G wheel came in today for an Evo 9 turbo I'm building.

According to the scale I have the stocker is 57 grams and the billet is 60. The blade design is quite different and it does have less hub material.

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How did I miss this thread!? Lots of good stuff in here.. I'm looking forward to my 14b that im going to get converted into a down firing billet 20g from Turbo Lab. :) I'm going to have my tdo5h turbine clipped Aswell. Unless anyone suggest otherwise.. Any input turbine wise, or should I just leave it alone? Thanks
 
I also jumped on the 120$ compressor wheel from N9 on ebay. I got it today and it looks like a solid piece.

I measured and weighed the stock 20g cast wheel and this billet compressor which by the way looks identical to the 300$ + snail turbo compressor wheel.

On my scale they weigh:

Cast:70.8g
Billet:62.3 Seller said it weighs 62g so Im guessing my scale is pretty accurate
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Pretty happy about my purchase. I do like the look of the KTS wheel but for the price of this one I will run it. This is going on my DD automatic, with a tdo5h with a clip.

Are the blades taller than the 20g? The aero looks the same as the old kamak cast wheel. If the aero is the same, it'll perform the same. The kamak wheel was about 61g as well. The 16g below your post definitely has some changes to the aero, most notably more blade sweep from inducer to exducer.

The biggest advantage billet has over cast is that it's easier to build prototypes to test new aero. If you're not making changes to the aero, there's no point in making a wheel from billet. Cast is cheaper and usually lighter.

I expect the KTS wheels will work pretty well though. The 7 blade extended tip is basically a copy of the BW S252 with a slightly smaller exducer. Here's how the S252 and 20g maps compare:
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The most interesting thing is the shaft speed lines, considering an MHI 20g and the KTS 7 blade are pretty close in mass and rotational inertia (meaning, they take roughly the same turbine work to spin to a given speed).
 
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Yes the blades where taller then the a cast 20g.

Also as noted earlier, the hub is really meaty on the cast MHI wheel. That only gives so much surface for the blade. I noticed with the billet 20g, that the hub is much thinner and therefor theres more blade surface

Im happy with the 120 I spent, If I would do it again Id do the KTS wheel, but im happy with what I got. The weight alone should help spool time and the taller blades and more surface should give me a few more lbs/min. Not trying to push this turbo to the max, just going to be a fun dd turbo
 
Also as noted earlier, the hub is really meaty on the cast MHI wheel. That only gives so much surface for the blade. I noticed with the billet 20g, that the hub is much thinner and therefor theres more blade surface

That's the case with pretty much all the cast 20g wheels on ebay. The kamak 20g has the thinner hub and the inducer blades taper upward toward the hub slightly, probably 2mm taller than an MHI wheel, and still only weighing 61g. Only difference I can tell from the Kamak on my desk and that billet wheel is the shape of the leading edge of the inducer blade. ß looks the same.

The point I'm trying to make is that a billet copy of a cast wheel offers zero performance advantage in the real world. That's why I didn't bother with those HP turbo 18g wheels- they're no different aerodynamically than the wheel that's in my turbo right now, and they probably weight more.

Garrett News & Events
 
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I understand what your saying but in the 20g in my pictures has more aero work then a cast unit. It weighs less, has more blade surface area and costs 120$. It's not a direct copy to a cast wheel. There's noticeable difference

Also the cast wheel I was comparing my billet one to was MHI so I'm not sure why your saying eBay.
 
I wish I could see the plot. That guy's using a ridiculous hotside for it, but it's interesting to hear that 60lb is possible from a 52mm compressor.

Edit, there it is. Looks like it's on std correction. I'd rather see uncorrected, but I'll take what I can get :D

The lag really isn't even that bad for 600whp. In MR2 land, there are plenty of people making less power with more lag. It could be improved though, probably without much impact on top end. The 10:1 compression probably helps the numbers a bit though.

Now if we only knew what wheel it was...
 
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I want that 11 blade extended tip compressor wheel. Would be perfect for a DD that sees race gas maybe once or twice a year.
 
From what I hear, that 11 blade will spool faster, but won't push as much volume. I ordered the 7 blade. I have the compression to spool, so I hope to see some good gains from my lil compressor.
 
From what I hear, that 11 blade will spool faster, but won't push as much volume. I ordered the 7 blade. I have the compression to spool, so I hope to see some good gains from my lil compressor.

Weird, should be the opposite. More blades are more efficient at pushing airflow according to all of the centrifugal pump models, but take up space in the volute. The 11 blade should flow more, but spool slower and be a bit less efficient at higher boost. This is somewhat borne out by the way early adopters of the GTX wheels seemed to think that the equivalent wheel spooled slower but made more power. Everything in the engineering textbooks says that the 7 blade should spool faster.

Slip factor (σ) on the 7 blade (from eyeballing the blade angle ß) comes out to ~0.79. The 11 blade comes to ~0.75, due to the lower blade count (it appears that ß is the same for both wheels). For comparison, the MHI 20g is 0.70, so there is a pretty decent increase in efficiency. The 7 blade should also be a bit more efficient than the 68HTA and S252 because of blade angle. Smaller ß is less efficient at high speeds, but tends to make pressure a bit earlier.
 
Well i reprogrammed my innovate data logger to measure more airflow and swapped out the 50psi back pressure sensor for a 100 psi one.

With the Kinugawa 20 g compressor (06 turbine 8cm Conquest hot side) airflow topped out at 2500hz (2g maf) about what i expected. Back pressure maxed out at 60 psi @ 25 in the manifold. This car has about 6 psi drop from pre throttle body to the intake runners at this power level, so pre throttle body psi would have been about 31.

My scale only has 2 gram resolution. The Kts wheel came in about 60grams and the Kinugawa about 1-2 grams more.

I finally got motivated to slap on the billet compressor. Unfortunately the snow and salt flew before i finished. Should have worked on it during the week! Now i have to wait for another deluge to wash the salt from the roads.

Sure is sexy.

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Here is some food for thought....

What would make more power and or be more efficient, running a 20g 6+6 at 32-35 psi or an extended tip 6+6 at same boost level. Both are with a Td05h turbine wheel, 8cm fp housing.

My guess would be the extended tip wheel would be at same boost levels as it flows more air per revolution, so it would require less shaft speed, but im unclear. Also I dont think spool would be hindered with the extended tip as weight/blade ratio is better?
 
Here is some food for thought....

What would make more power and or be more efficient, running a 20g 6+6 at 32-35 psi or an extended tip 6+6 at same boost level. Both are with a Td05h turbine wheel, 8cm fp housing.

My guess would be the extended tip wheel would be at same boost levels as it flows more air per revolution, so it would require less shaft speed, but im unclear. Also I dont think spool would be hindered with the extended tip as weight/blade ratio is better?

According to Busemann's model, as radius ratio (inducer/exducer) approaches 1, efficiency drops dramatically. It's relatively constant up until ~0.6 in the blade counts we're working with, but then the curve falls off after that. Lower blade radius ratio is, as a rule, results in better efficiency. The blade radius of the extended tip will be slightly lower than a standard exducer, therefore we can expect it to be slightly more efficient.
 
I just got one of the ET 11 blade 20G wheels in mail from turbolab today. Will be running this now instead of the n9 one. Will be ran with a tdo5h turbine wheel in a 7cm housing until I get the broken bolts out of my bullseye housing.

Hope to get it dyno tuned before the season starts here in Utah. Will be on pump gas though until the gas station here gets their e85 tank replaced. Who knows when that will happen though. May just have to get a race gas tune instead later.
 
I don't mean to thread jack away from the 20g billet compressor wheel discussion, but thought this might be useful for the 35r guys thinking about upgrading to the HTA version of this turbo or going GTX. I found this company online, which offers a 11 blade GTX wheel. Looks identical to the Garrett GTX35 wheel. Savings anyone? LOL

11 Blade GTX3582R wheel
 
I just got one of the ET 11 blade 20G wheels in mail from turbolab today. Will be running this now instead of the n9 one. Will be ran with a tdo5h turbine wheel in a 7cm housing.

I also just got a 7 blade extended tip 20 g wheel from them. I haven't had time to put it on yet. Be sure and post those numbers you get.
 
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