Well my s360 blew with around 1000 miles on it, and frankly im not sure why but upon inspection it seems half of the thrust collar wore into the thrust plate. Now im going to rebuild this turbo but what can i do to make it better?

If I'm not mistaken, sounds like not enough oil.

Where did you feed the oil supply from?

It was fed from the ofh saw 30 psi at idle and 70 at load.

I think Twicks had a similar experience.

What happened in his situation? was it just a faulty turbo from the factory with improper clearances? So possibly a warranty situation? I emailed agpturbo who i purchased it from to see if they had any input but am still waiting on a reply back

Dunno, think he got a lotta thrust-play in a hurry.

Its very odd also upsetting cause i went with a borg warner after reading that they are built like tanks

Post pictures of the carnage and we may be able to help further. Sounds like oiling to me.

I agree, sounds like not enough oil.

What oil do you use? Did the journal bearings have any scoring, and is the thrust plate oil hole clogged with anything?

Ill snap some pictures tomorrow of everything that looks damaged, since the shaft has some blueing id guess it was an oling problem though, but i dont understand why, It didnt look like anything was clogged but ill double check cause i dont want it happening again. The turbo has had mobile 1 20-40 through it, and the bearings had slight scorring on the outsides

Mobil 1 is no good. You probably didn't have enough oil. I'd feek that thing with a minimum of a -4 un restrected, and probably a -6. Big turbo's need lots of oil, and the s300 series is a big frame turbo.

Turbo that large requires a high-ZDDP racing oil or diesel oil at the bare minimum. Figure it's originally intended for diesels which use a high-zinc oil regardless.

There is a steel 360* thrust plate upgrade for the S300 series, but that also requires the better oil. Mobil 1 is junk for sure.

It is fed -4 unrestricted, i was guessing the oil wasnt any good for the turbo because of what you stated, whats a good oil that fits the requirements that you can buy from a parts store? So not brad penn cause i looked all over and couldnt find any locally?

20-40? Youre in Denver, its january. I hope no matter what turbo you have you let your car warm up for atleast 15 minutes with 20-40 oil..... And also, oil takes longer to reach full temp than coolant does. Thicker the oil, higher the pressure and less efficient it is.
(nvm) I too thought they were bulletproof. I hope you figure out the problem.

Edit: Saw your question. I highly recommend 5-40 t6 rotella. Good synth with high zinc levels for a reasonable price. Brad Penn is good as well, but i would seriously consider going with a 5 or 10 vs 20wt oil.

boost97gst said:

Side question: Isnt a BW turbo very expensive, Like FP-type price? I too thought they were bulletproof.

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Nope- they're actually the cheapest new turbo you can buy if you're able to run a T4 platform. They get expensive when companies like Bullseye adapt their own T3 and DSM bolt-on turbine housing.

I typed before i searched, they are very cheap. I was surprised. Cheaper than PTE(which i know youre a HUGE DIE HARD fan of btw) hehehehe

I always let it warm up 15-20 minutes if i dont the car runs like crap (e85)
They are a very cheap turbo i think i paid 700 shipped and that was with fittings for the oil inlet and outlet, which i found out once it shipped that it already comes with them.
Justin is this what youd consider an easy to rebuild turbo? or should i have someone locally put it back together and balance it all?

Hell ship it to Justin and have him rebuild it, he does wonders with JB turbos. Sorry to hear about the BW though, hope all works out in the end

Look into shell rotella 15 40

Its what I run in my track car and my dd in summer time. Diesel oil is some of the best stuff before you get into brad penn.

Wow just got a reply back from agp stating that it is under warranty, now there just trying to figure out if its easier for them to rebuild it or just send me a brand new one which would kinda suck cause i polished and painted this one, but still good news

As long as it's the same compressor wheel and your cover is undamaged, you can swap the cover.

Scoobystyl said:

So not brad penn cause i looked all over and couldnt find any locally?

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Brad Penn oil: AAI Speed Equipment, 303.422.3571

5985 Lamar St , Arvada , 80003

Reported price was $45/case.

I believe there's a location in Englewood that sells it as well. Duggan Petroleum I think.. It is near the intersection of Santa Fe and Oxford in Englewood.

Hill Petroleum is a distributor. I'm guessing you've probably filled up with E85 at the Sinclair on Ralston Rd at some point? Same company.

This is the extent of the damage: