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i can move my rotor,,thudding sound comming from rear of car, bolts missing.

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warhurst13

10+ Year Contributor
89
0
Jan 14, 2012
Sanford, North_Carolina
ok...ive had problems since i got this gsx, this previous owner didnt take great care of this car i think :hmm:.

ok so i was getting a clinking noise from the front right wheel area. took the wheels off and noticed on the half circle thing (idk what its called im srry :ohdamn: ) thats right by the top of the wheel and goes around the spring, on the right side of it where there is a bolt going through it. The bolt was all the way on the right side and not pushed through all the way. so i pushed it through and put a nut on the other side to keep it there thinking it was causing the noise in the front. well after doing that i realized that i could shake my rotor inward and outward as well and when i put the wheel back on i could shake the wheel in and out also...none of the boots are broken on either side of the car. tie rod? but a tie rod wouldnt cause my rotor to shake inwards and outwards would it?
the nooise continues...
OTHER PROBLEM, im getting a loud thudding sound comming from my rear wheels around 30-45 mph, whether in neutral or not. i have basically brand new 245/40/18's in the back and 225/40/18's in the front. Im also lowered around 1.75 all the way around. I looked at the lugs on the back wheels and noticed i had a lot of loose lug nuts(i had tightened them a few days before when i swapped wheels). I re-tighted them but in the process one of the lugs seems to have went in at an angle? or even broken? could the thudding be from that? or my 245's hitting my Upper control arms? they are pretty damn close as it is but never really did it this bad before...ill upload some pics when i get home this afternoon
 
After I had gotten my project car I had the same thing happen with the thudding in the rear wheels. What I came up with along with my mechanic was just loosened bolts causing the thudding and when they were tightened the thud went away. Although I am not lowered as you are.. :hmm:
 
After I had gotten my project car I had the same thing happen with the thudding in the rear wheels. What I came up with along with my mechanic was just loosened bolts causing the thudding and when they were tightened the thud went away. Although I am not lowered as you are.. :hmm:

what bolts were loose on yours??

:confused:
 
Tie-Rods usually are associated with a left/right movement, it could be a bad wheel bearing, or a combination of both. As for the clucking in the back it could be your tires, but you would probably notice wearing marks if it was rubbing, check the rear drive assembly, drive-shaft, rear axles etc. see if anything is loose. There are rubber bushing everywhere under there that age and fail.
 
I looked at the lugs on the back wheels and noticed i had a lot of loose lug nuts(i had tightened them a few days before when i swapped wheels).

I had my mechanic put it on the lift, he said the lug nuts were loose and tightened them and the thudding went away. If I pushed down on the suspension there was no thudding. It could be many things without getting a good look at it from a lift. I'd do that if you could.. just my .2 cents.
 
Nobody noticed hes running different sized tires on a gsx? You cant do that. Viscous coupling may already be fried.
 
It is in your rear differential. It is most likely fried, do not drive your car until you get all the tires the same on every wheel. Also check your lower control arms for play.
 
No. The one it fries is inside the transmission on the center diff. May not be the cause of your noise but different size tires front to rear make the center diff try to constantly do its job as it thinks something is slipping front to rear. Car will skip or bind when driven.
 
He's 245 wide in the back, 225 wide up front. 40 sidewall height and 18" wheel.

yea thats right ^^ and i havnt driven the car long like this, i took my tires off and noticed wear on the inside from the upper control arms, so im pretty sure that thats causing the thudding. It only last from 30-45 then it goes away and i cant hear it anymore. The entire rear suspension is fine and nothing is loose or broken or has any play. In the process of finding some 225's for the rear right now. cars parked for now at a trans shop. preciate the help guys
 
He's 245 wide in the back, 225 wide up front. 40 sidewall height and 18" wheel.

Exactly which makes them a diff height. 40% of 245 is more than 40% of 225. For Awd front and rear should always be the same height. If there not then you front and rear will be turning at diff speeds. Very bad.
 
Well first off, 40 is way too wide of a tire for these cars. 35 is pushing it. Thudding may be from that. I'm but throwing a possibility here.

40 isn't width its height. 40% of the width. I'm running 235/45 on mine. I get some scrub in the rear but its a weak spring is why i do.

War, make sure the tranny shop checks t-case and rear diff fluid levels and have the replace any leaks with either. Replace t-case drain plug if its leaking. They are known to be bad.

Can you tell if the noise is on the right or left or in the center? Be sure to check the suspension over pretty good though if its speed related and onlybat 35-40 and no other times its gonna be rear end related. Check your u-joint, driveshaft carrier, check pinion all for any play.
 
His tires are a different width not height

Incorrect. The first number is the width in MM, the second number is called aspect ratio which is the sidewall height as a percentage of the width. The third number is rim diameter. Since the op has two different widths but the same aspecct ratio the tires will be a different height as well as different width. The same would be true if you have a 225/45 and a 225/40. Both the same width but different aspect ratio so the heights are different. This is also section width, not tread width.

Reading the Tire's Sidewall - Discount Tire
 
40 isn't width its height. 40% of the width. I'm running 235/45 on mine. I get some scrub in the rear but its a weak spring is why i do.

War, make sure the tranny shop checks t-case and rear diff fluid levels and have the replace any leaks with either. Replace t-case drain plug if its leaking. They are known to be bad.

Can you tell if the noise is on the right or left or in the center? Be sure to check the suspension over pretty good though if its speed related and onlybat 35-40 and no other times its gonna be rear end related. Check your u-joint, driveshaft carrier, check pinion all for any play.

it variates between both right and left and sometimes in the center, its mainly in the left and then carries to center. I took both wheels off yesterday and checked everything out, everything is tight and not moving besides the axle's normal play and the sway bars minimul play. And when they call i will tell them to check all of the above things. My trans was weak already, why 2nd gear went out and 3rd is grinding now. When i get the car back im going to put my 16'' talon wheels back on and see if that solves it if the car is still thudding after everything is fixed. then ill know for sure if its the tires...regardless im going to pick up some 225's for the back
 
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