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Car bucking/stuttering when headlights are turned on?

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Coldsou

10+ Year Contributor
104
4
Aug 31, 2011
Fort Myers, Florida
I've had this car since I was 16 and I've pretty much ran into every possible problem that nobody has ever experienced. I thought I'd seen everything until a few days ago. That being said, I have a little better than basic idea on how DSM's work and what to do when certain problems pop up. (At least I'd like to think so.)

I tried to start up my car in the morning. I put the key in the ignition and turned it. I had enough power to illuminate the idiot lights to come on but nothing else. (My battery checks out fine.)

Checked my fuses, fine. I popped the hood to check my battery connection, fine. Closed the hood and got back into the car to try and start the car one last time. It started! I wrote it off as a one time thing.

As I began down my driveway my car bucked. Similar to how you pop a clutch. ALL my electronics shut off and came back on instantly. The RPM's dropped to 0 and came back to idle (900 RPM). Then on my drive it began to rain so I turned on my side lamps. As soon as I turned them on, my cars electronics shut off, bucked, and then instantly came back on and my car ran just fine.

"Curiosity killed the DSM" I turned on my headlights wondering what would happen and my cars electronics shut off and on repeatedly while my car bucked along with it. Every time the electronics shut off, it bucked. It didn't stop as I drove on a four lane bridge uphill. I turned it off while in motion and the bucking stopped. I tried to start it again but it wouldn't. The idiot lights came on, but it wouldn't start. I pulled off to the side of the bridge and sat there, full of adrenaline from nearly causing an accident, and trying to settle myself.

After I sat for about 5-8 minutes, I started the car up and it ran just fine. I was hesitant, but I didn't want to call a tow truck as I don't want to spend money on a tow truck when I'll obviously need to spend money troubleshooting and fixing my current problem. One thing to note is that while driving before the insane bucking is that my radio would shut off and on on its own.

Mods:
Evo 3 16g
FP Air intake w/ KN filter
FIC 850cc injectors
Walbro 190LP fuel pump
HKS EVC EBC
DSMlink V3.lite
3' straight exhaust
Random ebay radiator
Greddy FMIC

A fellow friend and DSMer suggested that I start off by changing the fuel filter. Anyone else have any input? (Sorry about the wall of text. I wanted to be as thorough as possible.)
 
check your spark of all 4 cylinders. Having a feeling your not getting spark on all 4.
I'll check them when I can. Thanks for your input.

It's a dead battery and/or possibly a bad alternator or belt. I would think the almost not starting would have tipped you off.

I've come to expect with my car the obvious isn't the answer. The belt was replaced not too long ago. I'll check the battery again as well as the alternator. Thanks for your input.
 
I had this problem!

But first of all, test your battery's voltage - Should be between 12-13.

THEN check ALLLLL battery connections. When I had this problem I got lucky and it was on the terminal itself. What was happening is one of the wires going into the terminal had started to come OUT of the pin that holds the wire in. So anytime the car would move in any abrupt direction, the G force would pull the wire out just a hair, then retouch to bring everything back. CHECK ALL YOUR CONNECTIONS! Then test the alternator. Im not sure how to do it yourself, I always just get it checked regularly when im at a parts store (I dont want to get stranded and it takes 2 min...)

So: Check voltage. Then check ALL cables. Try pulling on the cables on the terminal and see if they budge. Maybe even unscrew the clamp and pull your wire out, clean it up, reinstall. Follow the cable to your fuse box and make sure thats 100%.

This is exactly the problem I had and it turned out to be a bad connection at a terminal, NOTHING MOTOR RELATED. Inspect all that and see whatcha find!

Also, do you have a battery tie down? If not then thats even more reason that it could be a terminal issue seeing as how your battery is moving around.
Also also, do you have a GOOD ground for your battery? If so, unbolt and check for rust. Factory spot is right behind the battery on the firewall but I have used one of the bolts on my strut tower for a month now and its 100% effective.

Question: When everything flicks off, is it more of a shutter/power outage then comes right back on with a 2 sec CEL?

GL
 
I had this problem!

But first of all, test your battery's voltage - Should be between 12-13.

THEN check ALLLLL battery connections. When I had this problem I got lucky and it was on the terminal itself. What was happening is one of the wires going into the terminal had started to come OUT of the pin that holds the wire in. So anytime the car would move in any abrupt direction, the G force would pull the wire out just a hair, then retouch to bring everything back. CHECK ALL YOUR CONNECTIONS! Then test the alternator. Im not sure how to do it yourself, I always just get it checked regularly when im at a parts store (I dont want to get stranded and it takes 2 min...)

So: Check voltage. Then check ALL cables. Try pulling on the cables on the terminal and see if they budge. Maybe even unscrew the clamp and pull your wire out, clean it up, reinstall. Follow the cable to your fuse box and make sure thats 100%.

This is exactly the problem I had and it turned out to be a bad connection at a terminal, NOTHING MOTOR RELATED. Inspect all that and see whatcha find!

Also, do you have a battery tie down? If not then thats even more reason that it could be a terminal issue seeing as how your battery is moving around.

GL

I'm so glad I'm not alone when it has come to this problem! I'll definitely check the battery voltage and alternator as suggested Colt4G63 pointed out.

I do have a battery tie down but I'll double check it and see if there's any play in it. Thanks for chiming in! :thumb:
 
^^^All what he said, I'm just too lazy to type out the wordy version like that. Another thing I find in my experience, is that a new alternator belt always needs to be retightened after the first couple weeks.
 
Alrighty so I checked all my fuses, all of which were fine. Then I checked my spark plugs. All were good and gapped correctly. Drove to Autozone and had my battery and alternator tested.

My battery failed their test and here are the results.
Voltage: 12.81v
Measured: 427 CCA
Rated: 500 CCA
Temperature: 113 degrees

Eagle96TalonTSI wrote that my battery should be around 12-13 volts. Based on the additional information would you guys say their assesment that my battery is bad correct? If so, what battery would you guys recommend?

As emberassing as it is... my ground cable was loose along with the terminal connectors. These terminal connectors have seen their fair share of use and I plan to replace them for safe measure.
 
The battery is supposed to be 12.5 or within 500 +/-. Make sure when your parts are tested that you view the device's readings yourself to ensure they arent trying to get you to buy something.

What did the alternator test conclude?

Sounds like its the terminals. Go back to your parts store and buy new ones for 2$. Remove old ones, snip old wire and use the fresh wire and rewire it yourself. You can strip some of your wire to get the best quality but be mindful of how much slack you have so you can reach the battery.

Also for your ground, theres little 1 ft cables with the holes on the end ready to bolt on. I use the strut tower bolt that my battery tie down uses. It goes on top of the battery tie down which makes direct contact with the frame = solid ground.

GL

Also: Do you have aftermarket alarm system? Maybe its a weak connection somewhere around your fuse box that makes the car freak out everytime it loses/regains connection.
 
Well here's my list of recommended batteries...

1-odyssey (if you have the coin I'd get it, hands down best battery in the world and no point in arguing it because facts are facts and nothing beats an odyssey period)

2-optima great battery and not much behind the odyssey and a lil cheaper too

3-interstate great battery for the money, if your tight on funds this is a good price point battery
 
The battery is supposed to be 12.5 or within 500 +/-. Make sure when your parts are tested that you view the device's readings yourself to ensure they arent trying to get you to buy something.

What did the alternator test conclude?

Sounds like its the terminals. Go back to your parts store and buy new ones for 2$. Remove old ones, snip old wire and use the fresh wire and rewire it yourself. You can strip some of your wire to get the best quality but be mindful of how much slack you have so you can reach the battery.

Also for your ground, theres little 1 ft cables with the holes on the end ready to bolt on. I use the strut tower bolt that my battery tie down uses. It goes on top of the battery tie down which makes direct contact with the frame = solid ground.

GL

Also: Do you have aftermarket alarm system? Maybe its a weak connection somewhere around your fuse box that makes the car freak out everytime it loses/regains connection.
For whatever reason they didn't want to test the alternator while it was in the car. After the shops are back on their regular schedules I plan to get it tested at another place.

I tightened my ground and connections. I'll definitely swap out the old wires and connectors with new ones. Thanks!

No aftermarket alarm system. I do, however, have a factory alarm system that went kapoot five-six months ago.

Well here's my list of recommended batteries...

1-odyssey (if you have the coin I'd get it, hands down best battery in the world and no point in arguing it because facts are facts and nothing beats an odyssey period)

2-optima great battery and not much behind the odyssey and a lil cheaper too

3-interstate great battery for the money, if your tight on funds this is a good price point battery

Thanks for the suggestions!
 
Hmm... thats weird! Why didnt they want to test your alternator? LOL never seen that.

Btw you dont need a battery if yours tested at 12.8v

If you do get a new battery for whatever reason: Optima Yellow Top - Best Battery.
 
In my experience all DSM electrical issues are connection issues.
Clean and reinstall all connections in your engine compartment.
Run a full time volt gauge and ground everything.
or your will have part time electrical issues.
 
Alrighty so I checked all my fuses, all of which were fine. Then I checked my spark plugs. All were good and gapped correctly. Drove to Autozone and had my battery and alternator tested.

My battery failed their test and here are the results.
Voltage: 12.81v
Measured: 427 CCA
Rated: 500 CCA
Temperature: 113 degrees

Eagle96TalonTSI wrote that my battery should be around 12-13 volts. Based on the additional information would you guys say their assesment that my battery is bad correct? If so, what battery would you guys recommend?

As emberassing as it is... my ground cable was loose along with the terminal connectors. These terminal connectors have seen their fair share of use and I plan to replace them for safe measure.

When I test batteries at Autozone, the voltage has to be over 12.45 to get an accurate reading. The voltage could be considered perfect, as well as 100% charged but still give you a bad reading. It's more than likely a dead cell within the battery.

How old is the battery?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
When I test batteries at Autozone, the voltage has to be over 12.45 to get an accurate reading. The voltage could be considered perfect, as well as 100% charged but still give you a bad reading. It's more than likely a dead cell within the battery.

How old is the battery?
Battery is about 3 and a half years now.


I replaced the terminal connectors, cleaned my battery terminals, replaced the wiring for the battery as well as the ground. I've yet to experience an issue today after driving around and on multiple cold starts. Thanks for all your help, guys!
 
Well, if the headlights tripped it into doing it steady, it's load related. The more load on the system, the harder it is to make the alternator spin. New belt could be skipping along on the pulley, but the battery should buffer that if it were the only problem. Sounds like a combination of charging system issues or loose/corroded connections. The alternator or battery alone should not cause those symptoms.
 
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