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EF1 vs 68hta vs S256 vs HX35 so many choices

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deflator

15+ Year Contributor
535
3
Jan 5, 2007
livonia, Michigan
So after 4 years of modifying this car I have it running perfect. It got a freshly rebuilt 2.3L with FP3s, a freshly rebuilt ATX, and an E316G on E85. The rest of my mods are in my profile but it's all the usual bolt-ons.

I cannot decide on the next step, which turbo to get for 45-55lb/min. The options are great, too good to choose between.

I want to send the 16G to MAP to become an EF1 for $650. This would require no other changes to my setup. But FP sells you a brand new turbo for $1300...which makes this hard. I can sell the 16G I have for at least 300, so for $350 more I get a brand new turbo. And the 68 has been faster.

Or I can get a larger turbo like the S256 or the HX35. The downside of these is they will require a lot of changes to my current setup. Possibly slim fans, water pipe denting, custom IC piping, and oil lines. And I will need an external WG.

The S256 may not require much, maybe just the external gate and lines, but I can't find much from users of it.

No real horsepower goals. This 16g spools quickly, boost just surges upward from 2K rpm. I could use a little more lag and a larger turbo to complement the stroker and cams, but I don't want to modify the car too much further.
 
So after 4 years of modifying this car I have it running perfect. It got a freshly rebuilt 2.3L with FP3s, a freshly rebuilt ATX, and an E316G on E85. The rest of my mods are in my profile but it's all the usual bolt-ons.

I cannot decide on the next step, which turbo to get for 45-55lb/min. The options are great, too good to choose between.

I want to send the 16G to MAP to become an EF1 for $650. This would require no other changes to my setup. But FP sells you a brand new turbo for $1300...which makes this hard. I can sell the 16G I have for at least 300, so for $350 more I get a brand new turbo. And the 68 has been faster.

Or I can get a larger turbo like the S256 or the HX35. The downside of these is they will require a lot of changes to my current setup. Possibly slim fans, water pipe denting, custom IC piping, and oil lines. And I will need an external WG.

The S256 may not require much, maybe just the external gate and lines, but I can't find much from users of it.

No real horsepower goals. This 16g spools quickly, boost just surges upward from 2K rpm. I could use a little more lag and a larger turbo to complement the stroker and cams, but I don't want to modify the car too much further.

FP red turbo (old school) is bolt on, under 1300 infact a 1000, 65lbs and laggier (td06h wheel). Sounds like an option to me. In addition it uses a larger turbine housing than the ef1 and the old 68HTA.
 
The fp red or green would both be good options but I would go Holset. You can pick up a 6 or 7 blade Hx35 on the cheap, have it rebuilt by a reputable vendor on this site, and pick up a BEP bolt on turbine housing. This way you can keep you current exahust manifold, down pipe, and run an internal wastegate. This should flow in your desired 45-55lb/min range and spool up well later on your stroker. This is probably your most cost effective option. Holset turbos have proven to be a great, reliable turbo for DSM's but they are heavy compared to other turbos.
 
Fp green....bigger will have a hard time getting on the converter.

The fp red or green would both be good options but I would go Holset. You can pick up a 6 or 7 blade Hx35 on the cheap, have it rebuilt by a reputable vendor on this site, and pick up a BEP bolt on turbine housing. This way you can keep you current exahust manifold, down pipe, and run an internal wastegate. This should flow in your desired 45-55lb/min range and spool up well later on your stroker. This is probably your most cost effective option. Holset turbos have proven to be a great, reliable turbo for DSM's but they are heavy compared to other turbos.

Also keep in mind that by the time you get an hx bolted on you'll have a bunch more in it... you do not save money running a holset.
 
It spools slower. At a higher rpm. So if it will only get to 3000rpm it won't make any boost and be a dog out of the hole

Exactly. You read my mind.

I guess I should ask this, as it may be a determining factor in the size turbo he decides to go with..

Are you planning on sticking with a stock un-modified torque converter? Or are you planning on getting it restalled?

If you are sticking with a stock un-modified torque converter, I wouldn't recommend a turbo with a turbine much larger than TD05H. TD06H4 would be the largest I would use. Any bigger and you might have issues spooling off the line.

Check out the FP 71HTA or the FP Green XL(76HTA). Also, get a hold of Turbo Lab and ask them what they have to offer. They make a lot of custom MHI based turbos, and they just got their hands on a wide selection of billet wheels that gives FP a run for their money.
 
Converter will remain stock. I won't be launching often, so it is not a huge deal. I don't see much track use in its future.

The Green Xl does look good. I would only need an intercooler pipe and coupler to accommodate the down-firing turbo. Too bad I can't buy now when they are on sale.

I find it hard to estimate what each turbo will spool on my automatic stroker with FP3s... It made a huge difference with the 16g but how much faster spool can I expect over a 2L, in rpm?

I don't want a holset for a few reasons; they are designed to run more boost than I want to, the comp. cover is large and will require some hacking, and the fabrication of a return line.
 
I dont know I'd you've ever driven a big turbo auto. Even with a restall they are dogs unless launched. Prepare to get smoked by geo metros while you spool.
 
I dont know I'd you've ever driven a big turbo auto. Even with a restall they are dogs unless launched. Prepare to get smoked by geo metros while you spool.

I haven't, but I have read that. And that's why I've been looking to stay TD05 with an EF1 or a 68hta. I don't know which is a better deal, but I think the 68 is the better turbo and it is new.
 
I would definitely do the above. There are a myriad of billet 20G wheels (including extended tip versions) and plenty of housings that will simply swap right onto the 16G. Talk about cost effective.

There is no magic in the FP turbos, you can make one of your own and have just as effective and powerful turbo for 1/4 of the cost.
 
Keep your 16G and build your own hybrid.

Here's a wheel for $120:

20g Billet Compressor Wheel with Point Milled "Big Sale US$100 00 Only" | eBay

...and a housing for $100:

Turbo Compressor Housing TD05H TD06SL2 DSM 1g EVO 3 EVO1 3 20g | eBay

Done....and it has a 1.5mm larger inducer than a 68HTA.

Thanks for the link :thumb: I almost bought one of the billet 18g wheels on sale but decided to hold out to see if the 20g wheel would go on sale. Sure glad I did.
Now to decide if I want to mate it with the TD06H I have sitting around or a 10 degree clipped TD05H.
 
I thought that the 16g would need machining to become a 20g? How much does machining run, $100?

So I could get the fp 8cm housing right now for $200, and this wheel and housing for $200, and have an almost new billet 20g that bolts up the same as before? If I rebuilt it too it would be about the same price as an ef1 but with new housings and a larger compressor.
 
I thought that the 16g would need machining to become a 20g? How much does machining run, $100?

So I could get the fp 8cm housing right now for $200, and this wheel and housing for $200, and have an almost new billet 20g that bolts up the same as before? If I rebuilt it too it would be about the same price as an ef1 but with new housings and a larger compressor.

No machining needed. The exducers of the compressor wheels are the same size, you just need the compressor cover to fit the larger inducer and blade shape.

Yes, exactly.
 
I thought that the 16g would need machining to become a 20g? How much does machining run, $100?
No machining needed. The exducers of the compressor wheels are the same size, you just need the compressor cover to fit the larger inducer and blade shape.

Yes, exactly.

There are two style of 16g, small and big/evo3. Small will need to have the CHRA machined to fit a larger compressor wheel like the 20g,

Small
I - 45.6mm
E - 60.0mm
Big/Evo3
I - 48mm/48.3mm
E - 68mm
20g
I - 52.65mm
E -68mm
 
tough decision to make.
one things for sure the ef1, 71hta (correct new term for 68hta) will spool heck of a lot faster than everything else listed.

English racing 2.3 auto ran both 68hta and 73hta (new green) the larger spooled 200 slower and hardly made car any faster due to how the auto was setup. was like 1 tenth and 2mph faster if I remember correctly. ran 9.9 on both turbos eventually. 73 did it first
 
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