If you need more room it takes only a few minutes to remove the power steering out of the way. Otherwise all you have are sockets and ujoints.

I don't mind moving the power steering pump, I was just curious as to how everyone who didn't have to move the pump did it

I always use a carbide bit on a die grinder and grind away at the bracket for the power steering/motor mount. I do this to every car I work on so the bottom right nut is accessable with both a quick wrench and/or a socket. Removing some of the material on the bracket also aids in installing the head with head studs installed.

A lot of people have removed power steering so that's also why they were able to get to it.

How did you strip the socket? Or do you mean the threaded hole that the stud threads into.

Yes the threaded hole.

I made a N00b mistake and read on one of the forums that the head to manifold studs should be finger tight..

needless to say.. I'm a pretty literal guy so I inserted the studs finger tight not noticing that finger tight on some of the studs on my head did not go in all the way specifically that corner stud that went in about 1/8 or about 2 to 3 threads in and when I tried to put the manifold in... I accidentally hit that stud and it ate through the threads (picture the stud at a 45* angle). I pulled it out ( it was loose at this point) and now I have somewhat of a stripped hole in the head

If you have a thread chaser you should use it first, if not take two nuts put on the manifold side of the stud tighten them against each other and using care that the stud is straight use a ratchet to twist the stud in using the outer nut.

If the whole hole is stripped out you will need a M8x1.25 helicoil kit

The entire hole is not stripped out just the first 2 to 3 threads. And yep I was going to do the double nut method until I tried it and noticed I had no space because of the power steering pump/bracket.

I might try it with a ratchet wrench, if not I'll just move the power steering pump and dremel the bracket a bit so I can get to the stud easier in the future

thanks for the Heli Coil size! That was something I was just looking for just in case something goes wrong!

FYI

I was able to get the stud in using the double nut method and a ratchet wrench. No need to tap or helicoil!

teknicalissue said:

The entire hole is not stripped out just the first 2 to 3 threads. And yep I was going to do the double nut method until I tried it and noticed I had no space because of the power steering pump/bracket.

I might try it with a ratchet wrench, if not I'll just move the power steering pump and dremel the bracket a bit so I can get to the stud easier in the future

thanks for the Heli Coil size! That was something I was just looking for just in case something goes wrong!

FYI

I was able to get the stud in using the double nut method and a ratchet wrench. No need to tap or helicoil!

Click to expand...

No problem, glad you got it figured out!

I have a similar issue, only on mine its the far left stud. I went tomake sure all the nuts were snugged down on my manifold after noticing I had some soot buildup on both left and right sides of the manifold. When I went to tighten the far left nut I noticed it was extremely loose. I proceeded to tighten it down and it never got tight and the stud came thru the manifold stud hole with the hole threads on the stud. I don't know how deep those holes go but about 1/4" of thread was on the stud at the tip. I assume it is the first 1/4" of the head hole that is stripped, otherwise it wouldn't have came out, right?...
Does anyone know if I can just put the stud in and bite onto the remaining thread, or is it too deep to try that. Also I seen the size I would need to do the heli coil method. If I have to go that route, would I be able to do it inside the engine bay without removing the head?

Also, from the pics I posted, does it seem like the gasket is fried and needs to be replaced? Will this clear up my leak/soot issue? (I like to try to keep as clean an engine as possible)
Thanks in advance for the advice.

gasket looks fine... but we can't really tell unless we see the entire thing.. Rule of thumb with DSM's, when in doubt, buy a new one.

when you say that the hole threads came out with the stud... can you post a pic of the threads? I'm willing to guess that it could have been helicoiled... and the coils came out.

Also.. you would not need to pull out the head, But theres very little room to work with. at the very LEAST, pull off the manifold replace gaskets and assess your stud situation.

Get a U joint,I think theres a bracket there you should remove for future ease of access as well.

I just repaird a few stripped out exhaust manifold studs on a car last night. Helicoils are old school and there are better ways to do it now. I use keensert They are much cheeper because you use a regular tap and drill bit. I would not use a thread repair kid on the stud that goes into the oil gally on the head. LOOK

I used Timesert for stripped threds but these Keensert look even better...

serviceguy said:

I used Timesert for stripped threds but these Keensert look even better...

Click to expand...

They are grate because you don't need special tools. They are about 7 bucks a piece for 8mm x1.25 and they keep them on hand at napa. Apposed to 45 bucks for a helicoil kit. I have a few valve cover bolt threads that need replaced , so I am going to use them on for this too.

Helicoils are way cheaper and have always worked fine with me. With a little red loctite on the threads, so they dont move, and you are set.

Thank you for the keensert idea. I'll give that a try along with replacing the gasket. But is it normal to have soot building up on the head near the edges of the manifold with a good gasket, or is this clear indication that the gasket is no good anymore?

Have you tried a bent box wrench? I never had an issue, but I also had my motor removal bracket that is bolted right there removed.