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time for 93 1.8L rebuild

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wickedtalon93

10+ Year Contributor
50
0
Jul 7, 2011
East Dublin, Georgia
Whats up guys been awhile since my last post and figured id get on here and give everyone a idea of whats been going on with my 93 Eagle Talon 1.8L DL. well im getting ready to rebuild the motor from ground up and talking bout blasting, acid dipping and boring the block .30 or .40 over havent decided which one yet but getting new crank, pistons, and eliminating the balance shaft. Also im going to be porting and polishing the head and intake now as far as the header i think im going to put some skills together iv learned from the best bout welding and build my own. So my Question to all of you is since im doing all of this do any of you know of anything else i could do to it while its all apart but thanks guys for any and all suggestions.


P.S for the many of you who will say, im not getting a 2.0 dont want one this car will be 100% one of a kind so i say LONG LIVE THE 1.8 :hellyeah: LOL:D
 
also ment to add in there i am sending it off for paint soon, this is how the car will be painted but the BIO aymbol will moved around only so much i do from the computer LOL:hellyeah:


P.S the grey lins want be there in paint and windows will be a darker black
 

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The black on black with green rim lips looks really good. But I'm really not into the biohazard symbol. I would opt for something like green pin striping and maybe a big biohazard sticker in the window. By all means it's your car, so do what you want. But I think the giant symbol would attract more negative attention than anything.

Good luck with the build though!
 
I had a 94 1.8L for about 2 years before I got my GSX. That was actually one hell of a good car. I only paid like 400 bucks for it. Granted I did a little bit of front end work to it, but it was a very solid engine. All I did was basic tune up stuff to it, and she never left me hanging.

As for you building it up, I agree with highpsi4. It's your car, do what makes you happy. You're the one who has to fork out the bread for it.
 
[QUOTE As for you building it up, I agree with highpsi4. It's your car, do what makes you happy. You're the one who has to fork out the bread for it.[/QUOTE]

yeah well i just got the price for the motor work and for block and head work it will be $650
 
You may want to look at getting a cam, with the port work being done it would help.
 
The black on black with green rim lips looks really good. But I'm really not into the biohazard symbol. I would opt for something like green pin striping and maybe a big biohazard sticker in the window. By all means it's your car, so do what you want. But I think the giant symbol would attract more negative attention than anything.

Good luck with the build though!

yeah im thinking bout not doing the bio symbol and doing some pin striping but the Bio symbol would of been bigger moving up on the back glass and it would of been turned at a angle but o well LOL:D

You may want to look at getting a cam, with the port work being done it would help.

any good ideas for a good cam for it:thumb:
 
Oh not alost of support for the 1.8, for off the shelf items.

So it would be a custom grind.

Make it too big, and then the valve springs will have to be sorced.

Give Delta Cams a call, Scott or Jon should be able to help
 
Oh not alost of support for the 1.8, for off the shelf items.

So it would be a custom grind.

Make it too big, and then the valve springs will have to be sorced.

Give Delta Cams a call, Scott or Jon should be able to help

yeah thats probally going to cost a bit but i will give them a call and see what they can do:hellyeah: thanks man
 
If they just do a regrind on your cam, Figure appox $200
 
that aint as bad as i thought it would be but thanks man:hellyeah::thumb:


I just called them, they have some cams I am waiting on for a few builds I am doing.

I asked about one for you, The $200 should also cover shipping to them, the grind, and the shipping back.
 
I just called them, they have some cams I am waiting on for a few builds I am doing.

I asked about one for you, The $200 should also cover shipping to them, the grind, and the shipping back.

hell yeah man thats a good deal then and also shoot me there number in a pm so i can give them a call
 
Don't bother with delta as im sure no one has run a 1.8 regrind from them. I'll stand behind Schneider cams and say they do some great work. Whatever cam you get make sure you get an "edge grind" as well.

Schneider Racing Cams - 4G37

Go as big as a cam as you want. I've ran a 284/294 cam on stock valve springs. The limiting factor wont be the springs but will be the stock ecu. You hit the rev limiter at 6.5k, only way around that is a stand alone spark management system. So i would suggest picking your cam based around the stock rev limit. Also try and track down a set of mechanical rockers. If you do want a big cam then its a must to get rid of the hydrolic rockers.

Also don't wast your money on getting a new crank and pistons. Either get your current crank polished, or get it cut for undersized bearings. ACL TRI Metal bearings. The absolute best bearings to go with. Dont bother with clevite as their aluminum bearings are junk. However if you can find a set of the clevite tri-metals then go for it. Reuse the stock pistons as well, as they are stronger than people give them credit. Im pushing 16 pounds of boost on stockers with over 200k miles on them. So don't throw money away on new ones. Hastings rings. Don't use any other. Out of all the sets of rings ive gotten from them for 1.8's the out of box gaps are always bigger than what the service limit spec calls for. So go with a set of .02 rings and file fit them.

Gasket match your intake manifold. Port your upper manifold to throttle body to match a 2.0 n't throttle body(I have a few of these laying around). Run a 2.0 non turbo throttle body. You lose idle controls, bit it is well worth it. Throttle body coolant bypass.

Drop as much rotating mass as you can. If you dont have powersteering, then seperate your water pump pulley and power steering pulleys and toss the ps pulley. Get rid of the a/c pulley if you dont use it. Run an aluminum underdrive pulley if you can. Switch to a 2.0 cam gear and get the outside face milled down so that the cam gear is the same size as the 1.8 gear. Make sure you transfer your timing mark. Go with a Fidanza flywheel if its in your budget. Also try and hunt down a 4g3x series engine that doesn't have balance shafts. And use the crank spacer from one to completely eliminate your balance shaft crank gear.

You can gain ALOT of power if you run 91+ octane gas and advanced your timing anywhere from 10-15 degrees. The amount you will be able to get away with will just depend on your location.

Arp head studs would be a nice investment as well. There is a set that is readily available that will work for our blocks/heads, its just not specifically made for our application.

One more thing. The ecu keeps the car running in closed loop below 4k no matter the conditions. This explains the great gas mileage these cars get, but is also a point of concern if you want to push them and make power.
 
The 3000gt one will work as well and the tps is plug and play. However that big of a throttle body may allow too much air in and could potentially cause issues. The main concern is the fact that the car lives in closed loop below 4k regardless of thottle position. Even with a safc you wont be able to adjust your a/f ratios below 4k. With the amount of air the 3000gt tb will allow in and the fact your going to be running around 14.7 a/f ratio below 4k i would be worried about detonation due to being too lean and having an aggressive timing map under any amount of load. You may be able to just get by with retarding timing and setting it anywhere from 0-5 degrees advanced... But im just guessing on that as i have no experience running a 3000gt throttle body. However i have ran a mustang tb when i was n/a still and i had the detonation issue im speaking of(before i learned that the stock ecu runs some very high timing numbers). The 2.0tb you will be fine with, but anything bigger than that and you MAY have to look into a better way to control fuel, and spark.

Also get a 160 fail safe thermostat. Your going to want to keep the engine as cool as possible to prevent any detonation.
 
:hellyeah:Mischif man thanks for the advice i will def look into that and i also got a question now if i do all this to the motor will i need to do any work to the trans mission i mean will i need to go to the 2.0s turbo tranny instead of keeping the stock 1.8s tranny
 
I know you want to fix up your current engine and stuff.. but keep in mind that even the most radical bad ass 1.8 (big cam, big valve, lots of porting, lots of compression, ect) won't even hold a candle to a very very mild turbo 1.8... And it's not even in the same galaxy as a turbo 2.0....Just keep that in mind before you dump a bunch of money in the 1.8 only to be dissapointed.

A n/a honda can run good because they are much lighter cars, and the head design is much much better.
 
I know you want to fix up your current engine and stuff.. but keep in mind that even the most radical bad ass 1.8 (big cam, big valve, lots of porting, lots of compression, ect) won't even hold a candle to a very very mild turbo 1.8... .

:ohdamn: ok now i know this is going to sound stupid but they make a turbo 1.8, i mean iv looked everywere for any parts to make it a turbo but cant find a manifold or any other parts but if you can shoot me some links i would love that cause that would change alot of what i want to do to the motor but thanks in advance
:D
 
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