If you're using the same clutch and flywheel as you had before the motor swap I would say the problem lies in your master and slave still. There is likely still air in there.

Air , and the master needs some adjusting
I was just reading another thread (that had a link for bleeding) try bleeding it like this
http://www.teamrip.com/how_to_properly_bleed_a_hydraulic_clutch_info.html

Also try lifting all 4 tires off the ground see if you can get it into gear that way

Last time I had this problem, and I mean same exact thing - fully bled, rod was all the way out, the only thing that worked for me was extended slave cylinder rod.

Could possibly be a worn clutch pedal assembly that finally died, seems like you've replaced everything else so maybe it's just too much slop at the top of the pedal that's not giving maximum movement.

SlickPyro said:

Could possibly be a worn clutch pedal assembly that finally died, seems like you've replaced everything else so maybe it's just too much slop at the top of the pedal that's not giving maximum movement.

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I don't think its the pedal. It just started after the new parts. I won't rule it out, but I'll get help bleeding some more to see if that fixes it.

It is the same setup, but the pedal doesn't feel anything like it did.

It is the same setup, but the pedal doesn't feel anything like it did.

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That is likely your biggest clue. I'm guessing the pedal feels soft and/or mushy?

pauleyman said:

That is likely your biggest clue. I'm guessing the pedal feels soft and/or mushy?

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Soft at the top. The rods doesn't move according to MJcanada. It gets stiff towards the bottom and picks up right as I let off. Does that makes since the way I'm explaning?

Hard to get into gear at times.

He's missing the bushing for pin that goes through fork where the master attaches to the pedal assembly.

When the new master was installed it was apparently left out. So for the first part of pushing the clutch it doesn't even move the rod.

So he needs that bushing to fix the problem.

At a bare minimum yes he does. Still sounds like air also.

MJcanada said:

He's missing the bushing for pin that goes through fork where the master attaches to the pedal assembly.

When the new master was installed it was apparently left out. So for the first part of pushing the clutch it doesn't even move the rod.

So he needs that bushing to fix the problem.

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What bushing? There is no bushing. Unless you are talking about the bushing that is on the arm at the top of the pedal assembly.

pauleyman said:

At a bare minimum yes he does. Still sounds like air also.

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It's not an air problem I verified there was no air in the system myself.

laserspeeddemon said:

What bushing? There is no bushing. Unless you are talking about the bushing that is on the arm at the top of the pedal assembly.

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The bushing on the lever at the end of the clutch pedal rod that pushes the master cylinder rod. Both 1g and 2g is have it. If there is no bushing that's supposed to be there then they changed the pin out to a severely undersized pin. Unlikely though, I'm pretty sure it's missing a bushing.

Edit: ok so apparently the only piece I'm missing from my 1g pedal assembly is the one i need to illustrate. So haynes will have to do. I'm talking about the clevis pin and the arm that bolts on the end of the clutch rod.


The arrow points to the arm at the end of the clutch pedal rod I'm talking about. That hole in the rod/lever has about about 1/4" of play in it or alil more. Which at the pedal causes about 2" of play.

Thats where his "slop" is coming from that exact spot. So you push the pedal down about 1 1/2"-2" before that arm makes contact with the clevis pin. Then it moves the master cylinder rod.

The 2gs come with a plastic bushing thats inserted in the hole on the clutch pedal that the clevis pin is pushed through. So it only makes sense to me, since only change to the clutch system was a new master and slave cylinder, that the reason for there being so much room around the clevis pin is that during installation the bushing was left out.

You don't get a new clevis pin with a new master cylinder as far as I know. So its pretty safe to say its the same pin. So only two things can cause play around the pin on that lever.

1. A bushing belongs there and was left out during the installation.
Or
2. The hole was reamed/made larger for whatever reason. Very unlikely.

When I replaced my pedal assembly on my 2g that bushing was worn 1/4th of the way in and the part your talking about that was reamed was actually just worn out from the bushing. It looked like someone had drilled out the pedal assembly but that isnt the case. Stock car just work out. He probably needs a new pedal assembly or used one from a junk yard thats not beat. Mine was of a brass nature or something I believe. If your crafty enough you could probably machine an insert but why bother if you can get one for cheap.

Factory 1g pedal. That lever deff is supposed to have a bushing. Arrow points to it. The black area there. Factory bushings are plastic, you can get brass ones though. Spadepro22 is missing that bushing.

So get that bushing. I don't see the problem. It's an oem part. Likely the pedal is worn also. If this is a different/stiffer clutch that will just add to the problem and show itself like this.

pauleyman said:

So get that bushing. I don't see the problem. It's an oem part. Likely the pedal is worn also. If this is a different/stiffer clutch that will just add to the problem and show itself like this.

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I just looked at his car last night. He is looking for it. I think. Its same clutch as b4.

Same clutch disk, flywheel, and pp. All from act. Felt great before the new master and slave. I can push it to the floor and it comes all the way back up. I can't see it being the pedal when it was working perfect before. And that bushing, will it cause that much play and does anyone know where I can get it?

Edit: Is this the bushing and does it have to be wielded? I don't think I need the whole assembly.

http://www.jnztuning.com/product_in...BRONZE Bushing-1G DSM & GVR4&products_id=3149

Felt great before the new master and slave

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Then the problem still lies in the master and slave.

Here is the bushing part number
MB555171

One other possibility. Are all the bolts in place including the one above the transfercase?

spadepro22 said:

Same clutch disk, flywheel, and pp. All from act. Felt great before the new master and slave. I can push it to the floor and it comes all the way back up. I can't see it being the pedal when it was working perfect before. And that bushing, will it cause that much play and does anyone know where I can get it?

Edit: Is this the bushing and does it have to be wielded? I don't think I need the whole assembly.

http://www.jnztuning.com/product_in...BRONZE Bushing-1G DSM & GVR4&products_id=3149

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Yes that should be the one. It is the farthest away from the clutch pedal. No welding isn't required.

That will fix your problem.

I ordered the mb555171. They said the bushing that I posted(jnztuning link) is a different bushing from the mb555171. So let if know if I ordered the right one.

The bushing I mentioned is in the lever itself where the clevis pin goes through. The bushing in the pic above is on the pedal assembly where it goes through the brake pedal tube right behind the lever. The OEM number is MB058634.

Get a copy of CAPS or ASA and you can make this alot easier.

Has the position of the fork been verified that it is correct. It should bee off center towards the driver side in the fork window.

If that bushing needs replacement I would be suspect of the bushings in the pedal assembly as well. Also are you sure the lever arm is not striped and the lever that goes to the master is not moving properly. My 90 the pedal end that went in to the lever started to strip and was causing engagement issues. I highly recommend a welded pedal if he has not done so.

pauleyman said:

The bushing I mentioned is in the lever itself where the clevis pin goes through. The bushing in the pic above is on the pedal assembly where it goes through the brake pedal tube right behind the lever. The OEM number is MB058634.

Get a copy of CAPS or ASA and you can make this alot easier.

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Getting confused here. So are you saying the other part # you listed(the one I orderd) is not what I need? And what is CAPS, ASA( I'm guessing some kind of layout)?

The part you ordered is what you need. The part you listed above is another bushing and not the one we've been talking about. I merely pointed out where it went also. CAPS and ASA are mitsubishis dealer parts search software. You can lookup exploded diagrams of stuff and get OEM part numbers easily.

caps is what they once used, still ok but they replaced it with asa.

pauleyman said:

The part you ordered is what you need. The part you listed above is another bushing and not the one we've been talking about. I merely pointed out where it went also. CAPS and ASA are mitsubishis dealer parts search software. You can lookup exploded diagrams of stuff and get OEM part numbers easily.

caps is what they once used, still ok but they replaced it with asa.

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So that is OEM version of the bronze bushing. Got ya, Thanks