YoYo_4G63 said:

Can i loose the bolt of the spring/valve without removing the ofh?

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gprix1 said:

^^^^ What he said.
There is so much voodoo and misinformation being passed around when it comes to oil it's frightening. Ofen told by respected mechanics with xx many years experience. Want to know the truth? Read: Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy
If you would like to speak on the subject with some amount of authority, read (READ, NOT SKIM OVER) all ten chapters, take the exams, then report back with your "opinion".

The correct weight oil is a function of oil pressure.
"This second number is the only thing that may change with an older, lose or worn engine. This can only be determined by experimentation. If you are using XW-50, go to a 0W-40. If your pressures are still too high go to a 0W-30 and so on."
"Formula 1 cars that run at 15,000 RPM and higher use straight 5 and 10 grade oils".

"Increasing the pressure while using the same oil will increase the oil flow but increasing the pressure by increasing the oil thickness will result in less flow. It takes more pressure to move a thicker oil. When you go to a thicker oil the pressure goes up because of the increased resistance, and therefore reduction of flow. Because the pressure is higher sooner, the relief valve cuts in sooner. Flow will actually be less when the RPM is up and the flow is needed the most."

Increasing "pump pressure" by way of removing balance shafts, blocking squirters, Kigley regulator is not necessarily a bad thing. This allows you to run a lower weight oil which is actually more effective at maintaining flow in higher rpm's than a heavier weight oil at lower pump pressures. Ya, I just went completely against what 95% of you have been told and believe. I used to believe it too...

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gprix1 said:

Yes you can. Another option to clipping the spring is to add an exra crush washer or two.

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Coolhawk00 said:

Try this. I had the same problem and switched to this spring and it worked wonders.

Oil Filter Housing Spring : JNZ Tuning

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9D9X said:

Have any of you read this http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf

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daren_p said:

I'm sure alot of the members on this site have read this but you can't just read that article & say every DSM should now run 20w-50 oil, its not that simple.

That article is in regards to their stock appearing, std thrust bearing turbo's. They are also pushing that type of turbo to its limits. On top, they may vary well be running a "race" built motor with lose tolerances. The requirements for that specific setup are nothing like a typical DSMer with his 16g & stock bottom end.

If your pushing your setup, an oil with a high additives package is what you want. Oil weight should be chosen to match engine build specs as we'll as turbo type ran. I would guess 20w-50 probably isn't what the majority of users on this site should be running.

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9D9X said:

Guess you did not read the whole article......

It never says 20w-50 for all cars..It says " Race engines that operate with oil temps above 200F should run 20w-50 weight racing oil. GF-4 classification oil is NOT racing oil, " Plus they only give you like 20 different oils at the end that are suitable, from 0w-30 to 20w-50.

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goodbye said:

I run 20W-50 not just because of the FP article, but a lot of us with built motors over the years have seen more bearing wear from lower weight oils. With that said, I probably will switch to a thinner oil with the higher zinc because I don't have balance shafts or oil squirters, and I have ported my OFH and head oil feed and still have 100 psi at 4500rpm as well. I might try that spring idea, I haven't tried that yet.

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9D9X said:

Guess you did not read the whole article......

It never says 20w-50 for all cars..It says " Race engines that operate with oil temps above 200F should run 20w-50 weight racing oil. GF-4 classification oil is NOT racing oil, " Plus they only give you like 20 different oils at the end that are suitable, from 0w-30 to 20w-50.

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9D9X said:

Sorry daren_P, I just reread what I said and that came off harsh. Didn't mean it that way.

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daren_p said:

Not a problem & I did happen to read the whole article

I posted that because it seems lately all the oil choice threads, someone ends up posting that article from FP & it seems what alot of guys takes from it, is no matter what my setup, my 4G63 is a race motor & I should be running 20w-50

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ed1380 said:

40psi warm idle?

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kchaazz said:

Ive got a bit of an oil pressure situation myself. Stock bottom end, no squirters, no balance shafts, ported OFH, oil port mod in the head. Ive got an Autometer electric pressure gauge with the sending unit in the OFH, and it reads 12.5 psi at idle when she's all warmed up- which is good, but when Im cruising around 2- 3k, Ive got 50+ psi, and if I had the balls to stare at the gauge when I put the pedal to the floor, I guarantee the pressure would peg out at 100psi before 7k rpm easily. This is with AMSOIL Dominator 10- 30. Maybe Ill try that spring JNZ is offering. At less than $4.00, its worth a shot, though Id be leary of the oil pressure dropping way too low at idle with that spring and a ported OFH. Any opinions?

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kchaazz said:

Ive got a bit of an oil pressure situation myself. Stock bottom end, no squirters, no balance shafts, ported OFH, oil port mod in the head. Ive got an Autometer electric pressure gauge with the sending unit in the OFH, and it reads 12.5 psi at idle when she's all warmed up- which is good, but when Im cruising around 2- 3k, Ive got 50+ psi, and if I had the balls to stare at the gauge when I put the pedal to the floor, I guarantee the pressure would peg out at 100psi before 7k rpm easily. This is with AMSOIL Dominator 10- 30. Maybe Ill try that spring JNZ is offering. At less than $4.00, its worth a shot, though Id be leary of the oil pressure dropping way too low at idle with that spring and a ported OFH. Any opinions?

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kchaazz said:

Ive got a bit of an oil pressure situation myself. Stock bottom end, no squirters, no balance shafts, ported OFH, oil port mod in the head. Ive got an Autometer electric pressure gauge with the sending unit in the OFH, and it reads 12.5 psi at idle when she's all warmed up- which is good, but when Im cruising around 2- 3k, Ive got 50+ psi, and if I had the balls to stare at the gauge when I put the pedal to the floor, I guarantee the pressure would peg out at 100psi before 7k rpm easily. This is with AMSOIL Dominator 10- 30. Maybe Ill try that spring JNZ is offering. At less than $4.00, its worth a shot, though Id be leary of the oil pressure dropping way too low at idle with that spring and a ported OFH. Any opinions?

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gprix1 said:

Warm or full temp? As in driving for 10-15 minutes.
When your oil system is setup correctly the most you should see is ~20psi at idle on a 4G63 (~15psi typical).
I don't know if you idled your car to get it "warm" or actually drove it for a while but if you actually got the engine core to full temp driving 10-15 minutes and are seeing 40psi @ idle that would still be very high.

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boost97gst said:

Engine oil takes awhile to be fully "warm". Longer than it takes for your coolant to get to 180* for sure. If you were reading those pressures at at an engine coolant temp of only 120 then your true warm idle oil pressure will certainly be a litlle bit lower than 40. I think your good to go bud.

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