H@xtGSX said:

Yea, we red necks have a bad tendency of making every vehicle we get our hands on the biggest, baddest, loudest, and fastest piece of crap on the road.

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Aint that the truth. I just recently started making my stuff a little quieter. But ive run open headers on my street driven, 351m powered 78 bronco, and straight pipes on damn near everything else but my gst

Cdc1221 said:

Oh really? May have to take a trip to s.c. ron

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Come on up . I'll show and tell you everything i did to make them work.

I am not apologizing for those characterisics... I still enjoy scaring the piss out of people with my 52 Bel Aire with a 500, 6-71, and 8 stack gas rack on top. It is the best 2 miles to the gallon I have driven.

My Jeep had dual flowmasters, and a bored 4.0

My GSX is a 3" straight pipe with a Magnaflow welded to the end, and a 14" glass pack rez.

My Ford Ranger had a 2.5" pipe with a 20" Cherry Bomb.

My GTA Trans Am had a quad 2" straight pipe with NO muffler.

My Ford E150 Conversion Van had a converted 351W in it with towing cams that would rip your house off the foundation, and dual 2.5" side pipes.

...and my wife is driving a Ford Taurus I modified to be a twin turbo 3.0 DOHC... Except she doesn't like driving it with the turbos on it. The boost kick makes her nervous, to say the least.

H@xtGSX said:

I am not apologizing for those characterisics... I still enjoy scaring the piss out of people with my 52 Bel Aire with a 500, 6-71, and 8 stack gas rack on top. It is the best 2 miles to the gallon I have driven.

My Jeep had dual flowmasters, and a bored 4.0

My GSX is a 3" straight pipe with a Magnaflow welded to the end, and a 14" glass pack rez.

My Ford Ranger had a 2.5" pipe with a 20" Cherry Bomb.

My GTA Trans Am had a dual 2" straight pipe with NO muffler.

...and my wife is driving a Ford Taurus I modified to be a twin turbo 3.0 DOHC... Except she doesn't like driving it with the turbos on it. The boost kick makes her nervous, to say the least.

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Lmao i thought about buying my aunts old taurus 3.0 and tt'ing it for the ultimate sleeper. Those old 3.0s are pretty peppy engines. Or else my moms exploder 5.0. That engine has over 400k on it and aside from an oil leak, it pins me to the seat

Cdc1221 said:

Lmao i thought about buying my aunts old taurus 3.0 and tt'ing it for the ultimate sleeper. Those old 3.0s are pretty peppy engines. Or else my moms exploder 5.0. That engine has over 400k on it and aside from an oil leak, it pins me to the seat

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The TT3.0 Taurus is no joke. It will smoke just about anything you would normally encounter. It will spank the shit out of any stock V8 on the road, short of a good LS3 in a plastic body Z06. Even then, I am not sure it wouldn't pull out front of the Vette. Never tried seriously. The main advantage is the Sleeper.... Who the hell ever expects to get smoked by a 2002 Ford Taurus?? No one, that's who. That Taurus with the turbos strapped on it can pace my 18g GSX off a dig, and it has the lumpiest FWD ever.

...and I had to edit my quoted statement up there. Some of those cars are long gone and I had forgot all the redneckification I had subjected each to.

Funny, the taurus my aunt has is an 02. Yea for sure. If i got spanked by a taurus, id sell my car .

Bogus, how can i can check cylinder wall thickness and how thin is too thin? And how much can a 4g head be milled to raise CR before its too far?

bastarddsm said:

How exactly do you get the balls out? I havn't tried, but I usually use a piece of welding wire and about 4 can's of carb cleaner to get the gunk out.

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Cdc1221 said:

Ive heard of people using a tig to melt them out

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The tig method is the best way IMHO, not a lot of heat is put into the rod throw, like if a oxy/Acetalyne torch is used.

Fehrion_sit said:

what is your take on installing oil gallery plugs. my engine machining teacher had me use brown permitex on them when i rebuilt my 1g head. in terms of my SBF, im seeing mixed reviews using the permitex on the plugs in the front of the block by the cam gear. thoughts?

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The brown goo he wants you to use is "Non Hardening gaskest maker" great for sealing oil galley plugs. Have no fear about a dab of the goo on the oil galley plugs on your SBF, I have been doing for 20 years with out issue.

I also use the goo when I install freeze plugs, also when I assemble split main blocks, and heads that have cam cap girdle.

It also works great for tacking a gasket in place.

In some gaskets, Like the TB or intake , if you want to add a bit of sealent, this works better than RTV.

H@xtGSX said:

Why would you want a small seat contact??? I lap valves out into the seat as far as I can do so comfortably to get that surface contact. It has never once failed me in producing some of the highest pressures I have seen with the least damage to the valves possible under high power applications. I always, always try to widen out the valve to seat with the valve itself and some good ultra fine lapping compound to make the most robust seal possible.

Why would you do otherwise?

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Seat width and placement can effect flow, mainly at lower lifts, below .200
It is also a matter of heat transfer.

I can take a box stock head, and pick up 3cfm of flow just from a slight change in seat placement and seat width.


A wider seat will cause the valve to run cooler, so you get deposit build up quicker on the valve head.

BogusSVO .. i have another non related dsm question. jegs sent me .010" longer push rods than reccommended by Edelbrock; they said 7.050" for a stock deck height. i know the proper procedure is to assemble the valve train and color the tip of the valve to see where the rocker will ride but im afraid if i open the pushrods they wont take them back. thoughts?

You only need 2 push rods, 1 on intake the other exhaust.

The rocker arm should run on the center third of the valve tip.

As far as returning them after you open, I can not say, that is something you need to ask Jegs about.

At just .010 longer than recommened, I do not see that throwing off the valve train geomerty

Hey Dale.

How do they polish cams and cranks? And how would you do that at home, emory cloth?

First the cam or cramk is put into a polishing stand/crank grinding machine even a lathe would work. It is spun in the rotation that the engine spins, clockwise for most.

Then a high speed polishing belt is used.

When done this way, the microscopic metal points will not dig into the bearings, but slip across it.

If done at home with enory cloth, the crank is not turning,pulling the enory cloth back and forth, so you end up with a non round journal, that is rough, and the metal points facing both directions.

So no, I would not do it at home with emory cloth.

Simple enough answer for a simple question..Thanks man

And I understood it, thats half the battle right there..

Hey dale, now i have a question
I was rebuilding my head, and went to lap in the stock valve in the #3 cc and it was bent. So i checked out the other and it was bent too. The seats are fine, but i wonder what caused this. Its just #3 cc, and the bottom end is solid, timing was still spot on when i pulled the head.

Glad you understand Bud.

Some pics so you know what the equipment looks like.


This is about the most common crank polisher.I have this same modle in my shop.






The polishing stand, same basic style I have.








Now Bud if you wish to have one of your very own, PM me for pricing!

Pricing on getting somethinf polished or one of these tools?

I dont need this tool,Havn't you cost me enough with that dial caliper

These are not tools Bud, they are pieces of equipment! Get it right!

If you thought the dial caliper was expensive......

I was talking about you buying the equipment!

Getting a crank polished, should be around $50

Polished is only aboot 50$ thats really not bad..The shipping will cost more.

Tools/equipment..SH** we use, how bout that..

Cdc1221 said:

Hey dale, now i have a question
I was rebuilding my head, and went to lap in the stock valve in the #3 cc and it was bent. So i checked out the other and it was bent too. The seats are fine, but i wonder what caused this. Its just #3 cc, and the bottom end is solid, timing was still spot on when i pulled the head.

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Any ideas?

Did you set the head valves down, with the cams installed?

I shoud have subscribed to this thread the night it was made....

On a wooden table. Thing is, i heard knocking in the engine which is why i tore it down. Should the hlas be easy to compress, like by hand, when theyre out. I cant compress mine, but they do spin so they're not stuck

BogusSVO said:

I shoud have subscribed to this thread the night it was made....

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Muahahaha do you hate me for starting it?

Check the FAQ section for how to bleed a HLA.

But no, you should not be able to compress a HLA when first pulled from the head.

Makes no matter the hard surface you set the head on, the weight of the head is enough to slightly bend a couple of valves.

I hope thats all. Hate to rebuild this thing and put it on only to do it again, which is why i ask. But thank ya