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DSM Troubles - Too Much Work

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Bolo'sTalonTsi

10+ Year Contributor
74
0
Mar 26, 2012
San Antonio, Texas
Alright folks, at least for THIS DSM that I have right now, thinking bout getting something different. I almost regret buying it. It seems one to two times a month something is going wrong with this damn car to the point I can't drive it for a lil while:banghead:. Maybe I was just dealt a bad hand with this purchase......:notgood:

Anyone have any thoughts and opinions to keep up with DSMs?
 
Be careful on what you buy. Most of what you find now days is someone's headache and you end up inheriting all of that frustration. You have to be smart about what you buy and remember that upkeep is the main focus. These cars can be reliable if you pay them all of the attention that they need.

Otherwise drive it over to me and I'll take it off of your hands.
 
@ StephensToySpyder: Biggest and longest lasting issue, car won't go into 2nd,4th,and reverse gears. 1st grinds after warm-up if putting into 1st at dead stop, if still rolling and put into 1st it's fine, 3rd and 5th are fine. I do have a replacement trans, just haven't been able to have it put in. The guy I bought it from did a half@$$ "repair" job on the rad which I had to replace. My car pulled a 'Tommy Boy' and the hood latch failed, let go of the hood smashed the windshield(already fixed). 2 PS belts snapped, main belt snapped once(not timing belt). I know one of my pullies need to be replaced. Hub bearing just went to crap, now waiting to get the spindle with new bearing back on. <- - -just what I can think of right now
 
That trans issue sounds like you have the wrong Shifter Cable bracket on. Had the same issue in my 90' back in the day~ ended up having a 91' mounting bracket and as such I had the exact same issue. 1St gear was shot.

Make sure of the year trans and transfer case you have. If for some reason you have a 90' trans in that car, it doesn't have the same spline count as a 91+.
 
That trans issue sounds like you have the wrong Shifter Cable bracket on. Had the same issue in my 90' back in the day~ ended up having a 91' mounting bracket and as such I had the exact same issue. 1St gear was shot.

Make sure of the year trans and transfer case you have. If for some reason you have a 90' trans in that car, it doesn't have the same spline count as a 91+.

It used to drive just fine with 2nd 4th and R. Just one day when I'm driving my brothers girl to her work, It didn't want to downshift from 3rd to 2nd, it was like there was no 2nd, no pop in then out or nothing, like it was hitting a gear wall. Don't have a transfer case, FWD car. And the car has been doing it since. Unfortunately I have been having to drive the car like this.
 
Check the shift boots. If one is torn it will not be able to apply proper force to the shifter arms.

Also make sure one of the mount bolts didn't back out.

Start simple and them move into harder territory.
 
Check the shift boots. If one is torn it will not be able to apply proper force to the shifter arms.

Also make sure one of the mount bolts didn't back out.

Start simple and them move into harder territory.

OK, not too familiar with shifter/trans/clutch terms. Try to explain like you would a slow kid without crayons and construction paper please.
 
You want to make it reliable huh?
Change the clutch and pressureplate, get a new flywheel or resurace yours with the highest step height.
Replace the clutch fork, throw out bearing, and throw out bearing retainer.
Do a balance shaft elimination while you replace the timing belt with ALL oem components (tensioners, idlers, pulleys, do it all)
Replace the head studs with ARPS, put on an MLS headgasket. Drop the pan, replace the pan gasket (with rtv black)
Loctite red is your friend, especially for flywheel bolts.
Fill transfercase with redline heavyweight shockproof MTL.
Replace intake manifold gasket with a metal one if yours is currently not, do plugs wires etc.
Get a wideband if you plan on modding it, buy DSMlink as it REALLY REALLY HELPS diagnose issues. Replace the radiator and all coolant hoses if they need to be. Make sure every bolt is in the trans. Every single one! Common problem is missing trans bolts. I run syncromesh in my TMZ trans. Replace all hydraulic clutch components (slave and master) with OEM components. Replace the line with a full stainless.

There you go, you have a reliable car if you do all this.
 
OK, my usual mechanic place I had my brother go to to have the new wheel hub bearing pressed in apparently didn't realize the bearing was a bad one from the auto parts store. And me or them didn't realize the seal also needed to be replaced. Any case, went back to that mechanic to have them pull the bearing back off to have a warranty exchange done. He suggests that my HUB assembly needs to be replaced, when at any of the auto parts stores have not been able to find a FRONT HUB ASSEMBLY for this car. Rear yes, but not front. He tells me that not only the bearing but the HUB needs to be replaced???

Do any of yous know if this could be true? I just don't see how this solid piece with the wheel studs could go "bad". All it does is hold the wheel studs and gets pressed into the spindle.
 
He suggests that my HUB assembly needs to be replaced, when at any of the auto parts stores have not been able to find a FRONT HUB ASSEMBLY for this car. Rear yes, but not front.
Because of the funky design of the front hub/bearings on a 1g, you can't just replace the whole hub/bearing assembly (that's why no auto parts places carry one--they don't exist). Also, you're correct that it's unlikely that the front hub could be "bad" 'cause like you say, it isn't asked to do much. That being said, it is possible it got damaged in some way and is causing issues with the bearing(s)/knuckle fitment.
 
OK, not too familiar with shifter/trans/clutch terms. Try to explain like you would a slow kid without crayons and construction paper please.

Time to entertain myself, and others, as well as teach some one. :) (Means smile, this is for fun and education.)

Let's pretend the car is sitting right outside ready to be fixed.

1.) Open Driver's side door.
2.) Look at the lower left hand side of the dash, there should be a shiney plastic piece with a car hood open on it.
3.) Pull it.
4.) While here, notice the three pedals. The far right is the gas pedal, the middle is the brake. The one closest to you is the Clutch pedal.
5.) The black bar behind it is the clutch arm. Using a light source, such as a flash light. (Lighters can be used, but the combination of Cold, flammable carpet, and cramped quarters, a flashlight or even a cell phone is advised.)
6.) The clutch arm is connected to a bar, which goes over your brake, and maybe even your throttle to go through the firewall. You should see a bar with a cotter pin going into the firewall.
7.) Inspect around the clutch rod for any evidence of brake fluid leaks, bent components, or smurfs jamming up the operation of the clutch pedal.
8.) Applying pressure with your hand, observe it's operation for any additional leaks, noises, cracks appearing, or summoned demons. NOTE: There is and adjustment you can do here, but Do NOT do anything here yet.
9.) While Still in your vehicle, look to the center console. Located in the center is the Shifter.
10.) Very carefully pull up on the sides of the shift boot. You should be able to pull the shift boot up to the shift knob.
11.) You should see something very similar to this
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12.) This is the upper end of the shift linkages. On mine you see that there is a small gap between the shift handle and the cross bar.
13.) That is bad.
14.) If you have this gap, replace the bushings here.
15.) (Refrence picture not found, Abort, Rety, Fail?)
16.) Following the linkage down, you will see it connected to cables. These are the upper end of the shift cables. There should be little no play here. IE move the shifter and the bolt should move the cable. If the arm moves and the cable doesn't, the bushing in the end of the cable is worn.
17.) This is Also bad.
18.) Do 14.) here.
19.) Get out of the car.
20.) Get on the floor.
21.) Everybody walk the dinosaur, er to the front of the car.
22.) Hood should now be up slightly.
23.) Lift the edge of the hood and feel for a vertical lever. Pull this to the side to disengage the hood release.
24.) Raise the hood with your left hand and hold it, then lift the hood support with the right and raise it, sliding it into the hood support. You can release the hood now.
25.) This is the engine. But what we needs is to your left. No, that's the thermostat. It's under that. Yeah, under where there's an oil leak. Yeah. That big grey bit is the transmission.
26.) See something like what you saw inside? Yep! It's the other end of the shift cables!
27.) IF you can rustle up some assistants, have them shift move the shifter through the shift pattern. 1,2,3,4,5,R. Look for binding, or any play in this end of the shifter. There should not be any play in the movement.
28.) If there is, THis is bad.
29.) Guess what? Goto 17.
30.) Since you are in front of the car, have your assistant push the clutch pedal. Look for a lever to be moving on the front of the transmission.
31.) Can't see it here? Don't get mad, just sit down in front of the headlight to your right. Lay down in front of the vehicle. (While tempting, do NOT tell your assistant to drive forward, this is both ill advised, as well as counter productive. )Speaking of which, the car should be OFF for this entire endeavor.
32.) Laying on your back, slide your shoulders under the center of the bumper. Your head should slide under the car.
33.) While your assistance continues to do single leg excersize on your clutch, watch for movement. This is the transmission end of the clutch pedal. (Yes, there is a bit of stuff between here and the pedal, but I wanted you to get dirty before you looked at the clutch resivior. No, don't get up, stay. Good boy.
34.) Is this adjusted?
35.) Get off the ground.
36.) Dust yourself off.
37.) Walk inside and get on the computer.
38.) Watch this video: Proper Clutch Adjustment - YouTube
39.) Follow the Instructions there and adjust your clutch.
40.) The rest of these instructions can be done on the other trans you have available.
41.) You can close the hood now.
42.) The Almighty Answer to the Meaning of Life, the Universe, and Everything.
43.) Kick your assistant out of the car, offer (If significant other: Soothing leg massage. If Friend: Fast food or beer {remember, do not drink and drive!) If brother, kick out to curb for lulz) close the door now.
44.) The reference of splines, the shaft sticking out of the transmission has a specific number of grooves.
45.) 89-91- 22 spline
91-94- 23 spline
46.) Which splines does your engine require?
47.) Or your tranfer case?
48.) Smile! You learned something!
49.) Log onto DSMTUNERS
50.) ???
51.) Profit!
 
Achelea, I'm stuck at step #1. The door won't open, and I just broke the handle off. Should I have unlocked it first?
 
Achelea, I'm stuck at step #1. The door won't open, and I just broke the handle off. Should I have unlocked it first?

Hmmm. Being a DSM, I'm surprised the lock works.

0.1.) Pull out car keys.
0.2.) Select Door lock key. Not the locker key. Not the Keeper of the Key. No, not the Gatekeeper either. The car keys.
0.3.) Turn the key clockwise. If key does not turn, you are either on the passenger side of the car, or your lock does not work. If it does unlock the car, Proceed to step 1.
 
:confused:

OK, what do I do after I walk the dinosaur and boom boom shilaka laka boom boom? And I do do this on MY car correct? Wait........the clutch is which one?
 
Hmmm. Being a DSM, I'm surprised the lock works.

I'm not looking forward to when my driver side door lock goes.. that being said, it would make for a perfect time to replace not only that one, but the one for the hatch where I don't actually have a key for.
 
You want to make it reliable huh?
Change the clutch and pressureplate, get a new flywheel or resurace yours with the highest step height.
Replace the clutch fork, throw out bearing, and throw out bearing retainer.
Do a balance shaft elimination while you replace the timing belt with ALL oem components (tensioners, idlers, pulleys, do it all)
Replace the head studs with ARPS, put on an MLS headgasket. Drop the pan, replace the pan gasket (with rtv black)
Loctite red is your friend, especially for flywheel bolts.
Fill transfercase with redline heavyweight shockproof MTL.
Replace intake manifold gasket with a metal one if yours is currently not, do plugs wires etc.
Get a wideband if you plan on modding it, buy DSMlink as it REALLY REALLY HELPS diagnose issues. Replace the radiator and all coolant hoses if they need to be. Make sure every bolt is in the trans. Every single one! Common problem is missing trans bolts. I run syncromesh in my TMZ trans. Replace all hydraulic clutch components (slave and master) with OEM components. Replace the line with a full stainless.

There you go, you have a reliable car if you do all this.

Thanks a bunch for the suggestions and help:thumb:. This should set me on the right track. This is just gonna be about $2100ish. Minus ECM and wideband(would get to these later). Definately thinking bout just going ahead and doing this when the money is available.
 
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