Okie dokie, well after a while my tester finally got here today. So i went outside and ran the test (or so I think..) but the numbers are kinda making me question whether I did it right or not. Here is what I got across all 4 cylinders.

Left hand Gauge / Right hand Gauge reading

#1 = 79 / 48
#2 = 80 / 81
#3 = 66 / 5
#4 = 75 / 58

Now keep in mind I could only get the tester to settle at 90psi for the test. I noticed that the left hand gauge fell to the set numbers as soon as I connected the tester to the cylinder. On Cylinder #3 I could hear air coming from the head area, so im guessing that I have a leak or a bad exhaust valve on the #3 side? Again, i'm not 100% on the numbers here since this is the first time i've ever done one of these, but why does the left hand gauge fall to those numbers? shouldn't it stay at 90?

Thanks!

Didn't see, did you ever get a fuel pressure tester on? I ripped my hair out testing my 1g when I bought it because it wouldn't start. Had spark, injectors were pulsing, timing was dead on, I could pull the fuel line off and have fuel pour out the FPR, or pour out the feed line. It LOOKED* like it had plenty of fuel, but 25psi LOOKS like 40psi when it's pouring out the rail, however, 25psi isn't enough to even get the engine to stutter over.

Have you tried starting it on starting fluid? Just pull the intercooler pipe off the throttle body elbow, it'll run that way enough to determine if it is for sure a fuel issue.

I tried the starter fluid thing and it still didn't change anything. I am going to pick up a fuel pressure tester just to be sure, but it wont be till next week.

Where did you spray it in at?

The vac line that the boost gauge is Ted into. The one on the top of the manifold towards the drivers side.

Man been following this post ### i was dealing with a similar problem. Mine quit runnin after a top end swap with cams, cam gears, injectors, fpr and 2g maf. I seen you were looking to get link. Im guessing you checked the dtcs? Got mine to run great after finding two wires were flipped on the maf and the coolant temp was throwing a code Mine was running great until i did a blt and cleaned up wiring from rewiring the coolant temp. then after, it wouldnt start anymore. I read to ground out the coolant temp wires. ( i shoved them between the bolts and tstat housing. and it fired up. I know you said you replaced it. but the possibility of getting a bad one from a local store is possible. Mines running very rough. but ran. Worth givin that a try. its very simple

Good luck to ya!!!

snowborder714 said:

I'll let Craig pop in and address those things. He had a better explanation when I talked to him than I could provide.

Here's the small logs I captured.

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Ecmlink says these have errors. Looks like they're corrupt. Can you reload a copy? I'd be interested in taking a look.

talon2gbuyer said:

The vac line that the boost gauge is Ted into. The one on the top of the manifold towards the drivers side.

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I feel as though that's not an adequate spot to do it from. Did it pop or anything when you did that? I sprayed through the throttle body because I knew I was getting to all the cylinders well enough to start then. Just me, but it's worth a shot IMO.

KB90TSIAWD said:

Man been following this post ### i was dealing with a similar problem. Mine quit runnin after a top end swap with cams, cam gears, injectors, fpr and 2g maf. I seen you were looking to get link. Im guessing you checked the dtcs? Got mine to run great after finding two wires were flipped on the maf and the coolant temp was throwing a code Mine was running great until i did a blt and cleaned up wiring from rewiring the coolant temp. then after, it wouldnt start anymore. I read to ground out the coolant temp wires. ( i shoved them between the bolts and tstat housing. and it fired up. I know you said you replaced it. but the possibility of getting a bad one from a local store is possible. Mines running very rough. but ran. Worth givin that a try. its very simple

Good luck to ya!!!

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Very possible the CTS is bad, but with link in there logging I'd assume one of them would've caught that it wasn't reading correctly.

Could you recap on what all you've tried, what's working for sure, and what is possibly not working? It sucks digging through 3 pages to find everything.

This is gonna be a long recap so please bare with me..

Things done prior to this no-start:
-dropped the oil pan, inspected rod bearings and oil pickup screen. Emptied out oil pan lake (?)
-Replaced stock injectors with FIC 650cc injectors (new o-rings all around)
-removed VC and loosened head bolts (was going to check hg, but didn't have to) re torqued per spec.
-re-sealed VC and oil pan; no leaks detected.
-Installed FP 10 micron in-line oil feed filter (as directed by Justin)
-Installed new PCV valve
-Installed MHI 20g turbo (dented water pipe)
-Installed new Thermostat with all new gaskets and water pipe O-ring
-Installed SAFC2 to compensate for larger injectors (mapping starts at -31%)
-Replaced BISS with OEM part with new o-ring
-replaced TB-90 degree gasket with a new one
-checked timing marks at the cam gears (was just about spot on)
-compression tested block (good)
-checked fuel injector resistance (good)
-Replaced Coolant Temp. Sensor (OEM)
-Replaced plugs with BRP7ES Copper plugs (have a spare set too)
-Checked and cleared codes (all that was present was a front o2 sensor heater code)
-Pulled ECU and checked for corrosion/damage (no corrosion at all)
-Resealed BOV flange gasket (BLT result)
-SAFC still shows the -31% at 800RPM (which is good for base idle with those injectors)
-Tried starting spray, no effect.
-Verified Mechanical timing (photo's on pg 3 of this thread)
-Popped stock 450 injectors in to see if it was an injector problem, no change.
-Installed AFPR (two days ago, so not really a cause of problems for this)
-Checked CAS and CPS voltage and resistance, nothing out of the ordinary.


- Compression: (cold block results)
#1 - 154
#2 - 152
#3 - 148
#4 - 140

Injector resistance:
Inj #1: 2.3 Ohms
Inj #2: 2.4 Ohms
Inj #3: 2.2 Ohms
Inj #4: 2.2 Ohms

Leak-down results
#1 = 79 / 48
#2 = 80 / 81
#3 = 66 / 5
#4 = 75 / 58

And I also recall on the link log showing that CTS was reading a 47 degree OAT so I know the ECU was getting a signal from that.

Awesome, so looks good so far. Compression is perfectly fine, injectors appear* fine.

You have spark correct? I'm assuming you had it posted it has spark elsewhere, just want to make sure.
Did you check the injectors pulsing with a noid light?
What really catches my eye is the SAFC. Those take a reading off the o2 sensor correct? (I've never dealt with one and don't plan on it) That is what I'm seeing as a possible issue, especially if it's tied to the o2 sensor at all and you throwing a o2 heater code.

Well originally the ecu was throwing an o2 CEL, so I ended up removing it in lieu of using the narrow band sim on link (when i get it). I have a new upstream narrow band on order, but will not get here till Monday. As for the spark, Yes I have spark on all 4, verified using the plug to VC method with Brian.

I am planning on ordering link when I get paid on the 1st, so i'll be taking the SAFC out (since I think some may be right and the wiring of the SAFC is faulty somewhere that's causing the no-start)

Im just not 100% on the leak-down results? do they look normal? (never done one before, so i cant really tell )

Also, is there a place I can order a noid light? I keep hearing it be mentioned, but i'll be damned if i know what one even looks like, .

talon2gbuyer said:

Well originally the ecu was throwing an o2 CEL, so I ended up removing it in lieu of using the narrow band sim on link (when i get it). I have a new upstream narrow band on order, but will not get here till Monday. As for the spark, Yes I have spark on all 4, verified using the plug to VC method with Brian.

I am planning on ordering link when I get paid on the 1st, so i'll be taking the SAFC out (since I think some may be right and the wiring of the SAFC is faulty somewhere that's causing the no-start)

Im just not 100% on the leak-down results? do they look normal? (never done one before, so i cant really tell )

Also, is there a place I can order a noid light? I keep hearing it be mentioned, but i'll be damned if i know what one even looks like, .

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How hard is it going to be to remove the safc completely and have it all wired back up? I have a good feeling that's the problem

As far as a noid light goes, go to advance or wherever and see if they'll rent you a noid light set. Mine didn't have a rental, so the guy said I can just buy it and return it and if he wasn't there tell the guy at the counter it didn't have the right style plug in. It was $40 for a set of like 6, and they'll look like a little plastic LED with two metal prongs sticking out. Just stick them in the injector connector and turn the motor over watching for it flashing.

As far as your leak down, the first number I'd assume is your pressure, 2nd number is the percentage of leak down? I've used a few different styles, so hard to say without knowing which each number is for.

Yes, your correct. The first number was the pressure reading, and the 2nd number was the leak-down read out.

talon2gbuyer said:

Yes, your correct. The first number was the pressure reading, and the 2nd number was the leak-down read out.

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Well cylinder 3 looks good. The numbers should be similiar on a healthy engine, however, with you detorquing the head studs that may have some influence on why they are the way they are. That being said, the static compression test alone should show the engine is healthy enough to at least start, but those leak downs don't look very great. They don't seem to match up with your compression results. Did you put the cylinder at TDC and lock the crank so it couldn't turn? I always have issues with pressure building to 70-90psi and then moving the piston and my results would go to shit, so I've always had to lock the crank so it can't turn.

yea i'm going to re-check them again tomorrow. But for now those are the numbers I got on my first run with it.

I personally don't think the engine is the issue. I have a feeling it's fuel/air issue. Can you smell fuel when cranking? Are your plugs wet with fuel after trying to start it? I know a few people don't like doing this, but try flipping the fuel rail upside down and cranking to see if you're even getting the injectors to spray out.

I have been following this as well as I have a similar problem.

Replaced the battery started the car and let it warm up and it just died. Started it again and he started to choke and died, did this 3 more times with me having to give it more and more gas to keep it running and now it will not start at all with out me flooring the gas pedal. And then the idle with the gas peddle floored is really rough bouncing around and will not stay started. It dies as soon as I remove the gas.

Hope you find out your problem, I may share the same issue and it may be 2 fixes in one. GL

xxShaneOmac said:

I have been following this as well as I have a similar problem.

Replaced the battery started the car and let it warm up and it just died. Started it again and he started to choke and died, did this 3 more times with me having to give it more and more gas to keep it running and now it will not start at all with out me flooring the gas pedal. And then the idle with the gas peddle floored is really rough bouncing around and will not stay started. It dies as soon as I remove the gas.

Hope you find out your problem, I may share the same issue and it may be 2 fixes in one. GL

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Definitely keep me informed man, that way if you fix your's i'll at least have a new angle to look at it.

I am going to buy a fuel pressure tester and see what numbers come up. should be a few days, but at the end of all of this, i'll have every tool a DSMer needs .. I have every tester for the engine in existence without a fuel pressure tester and a noid light .

talon2gbuyer said:

Definitely keep me informed man, that way if you fix your's i'll at least have a new angle to look at it.

I am going to buy a fuel pressure tester and see what numbers come up. should be a few days, but at the end of all of this, i'll have every tool a DSMer needs .. I have every tester for the engine in existence without a fuel pressure tester and a noid light .

Click to expand...

Your AFPR doesn't have a fuel pressure gauge on it? Does it have the provision for it at least?

Tyeler18 said:

Your AFPR doesn't have a fuel pressure gauge on it? Does it have the provision for it at least?

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It has one on it already. I just have not cranked the car over yet so it still reads 0 (from when i drained the pressure for the install) But you raise a good point, why buy one when I can just try and crank the car over and see for myself

talon2gbuyer said:

It has one on it already. I just have not cranked the car over yet so it still reads 0 (from when i drained the pressure for the install) But you raise a good point, why buy one when I can just try and crank the car over and see for myself

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To the bat cave!

Tyeler18 said:

To the bat cave!

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Yea its already too late tonite, still has the plugs and junk out of it so i'll wait till tomorrow when its hopefully not so windy.

Tyeler18 said:

Ecmlink says these have errors. Looks like they're corrupt. Can you reload a copy? I'd be interested in taking a look.

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Try downloading the latest version of ECMlink and I bet that'll fix your problem.

talon2gbuyer said:

Yea its already too late tonite, still has the plugs and junk out of it so i'll wait till tomorrow when its hopefully not so windy.

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You can just power the pump on though the test port, no need for plugs or anything.

snowborder714 said:

Try downloading the latest version of ECMlink and I bet that'll fix your problem.

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This is the newest, I just downloaded it on my new laptop last week.

I turned on the pump via the test connector and left it on for about 10 seconds and the gauge shot to 100. Now I'm guessing this isn't normal , do I just lower pressure on the gauge? Or is there something causing this huge over pressurizing?

Did you adjust the pressure at all when you installed it? If not just lower it until it's ~43.5 or as close to it as possible. That is WAY too high pressure, that'll flood it out quick.