Calan said:

How the hell does a turbo thrust bearing get into the oil pan?

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man.. your guess is as good as mine . Justin asked me the same thing when i showed the pics to the site. It was torn into like 4 pieces when i recovered it, that is my only guess though.

Is it possible that you got coolant into the crank sensor when you replaced the water pipe? Have you checked for a good signal from the CPS getting back to the ECU?

Have you put a test light on each injector plug to see if they are all firing?

Calan said:

Is it possible that you got coolant into the crank sensor when you replaced the water pipe? Have you checked for a good signal from the CPS getting back to the ECU?

Have you put a test light on each injector plug to see if they are all firing?

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I suppose anything is possible at this point. Im not sure how I could have gotten coolant all the way over there though. I had disconnected them and re-connected them when I was going to remove the head but re-connected them once I was done. As for the injector plugs, I only checked for resistance, and do not have access to a test light. is there a specific voltage they are supposed to carry with them that I could check with a multimeter?

Also, not sure if this is related, but sometimes when I crank the car over the spedo moves about 2 inches up the MPH gauge and then re-settles at 0. I doubt this has anything to do with it, but is it possible?

Also, would a compression test reveal a bent/broken valve? or would only a leakdown test find that?

talon2gbuyer said:

I had disconnected them and re-connected them when I was going to remove the head but re-connected them once I was done.

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Have you double-checked the connections to make sure you got them hooked back up correctly?

talon2gbuyer said:

As for the injector plugs, I only checked for resistance, and do not have access to a test light. is there a specific voltage they are supposed to carry with them that I could check with a multimeter?

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If you check the voltage at the injector plug with the key on, you'll see battery voltage on one pin, and a floating voltage on the other that will vary based on the drivers in the ECU and the harness resistance. One pin gets pulled briefly to ground when the injector fires, and the other one stays at battery voltage. (I think.... it's been a while, and I've drank a beer or two since playing around with the injector plugs.

Multimeters usually don't have a fast enough response to accurately measure the voltage at the injectors while cranking the engine over. You should be able to use a low-current 12v LED with a built in resistor though, which will let you observe the pulses going to the injectors. (Brian just used that method on his car not long ago I believe).

You can also use a mechanic's stethoscope or long blade screwdriver on top of each injector while someone cranks the engine over, to hear if the injector coils are firing.

talon2gbuyer said:

Also, not sure if this is related, but sometimes when I crank the car over the spedo moves about 2 inches up the MPH gauge and then re-settles at 0. I doubt this has anything to do with it, but is it possible?

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No idea on a 2G.

talon2gbuyer said:

Also, would a compression test reveal a bent/broken valve? or would only a leakdown test find that?

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Either test will likely fail with a bent valve...but a leak-down test tells you much more and doesn't require the engine to be cranked.

Calan said:

Have you double-checked the connections to make sure you got them hooked back up correctly?



You can use a 12v LED with a built in resistor. (Brian just used that method on his car not long ago I believe).

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I hooked them back up to where I believe they were originally.. black connector to black connector, and gray to gray.

I'll have to get with Brian to see how he did it. I really want to get this bi*** moving again before we start getting some real snow. Thanks again calan for helping me think through this, was about to push this thing off a cliff

Calan said:

Either test will likely fail with a bent valve...but a leak-down test tells you much more and doesn't require the engine to be cranked.

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Okie dokie. I just saw a video of a guy that had the same issues I did but ended up having a trashed head, thats why i was asking . As long as I do not have to worry about the head or valves being damaged, then thats good enough for me. I'm still leaning towards a bad CPS or CAS sensor as being the culprit here. But i'll test both of those tomorrow, and talk to Brian about what he used for doing the injector plug tests.

I would still do a leak-down test, just to rule out any other issues with the HG and valve train...especially since you loosened all the bolts and then re-torqued them.

(And... see my edit on the injector testing above)

Hey calan, quick question for you. Well, several actually .

1.) I do not have a leak-down tester, but ive seen folks hook up shop air to the cylinders individually without the shratter valve to listen for leaks, would that be something worth doing?

2.) I found a thread on how to test CPS and CAS but cannot for the life of me find it again, any ideas there?

3.) Other than the CPS and CAS tests, what else could I do today?

we're supposed to get nice weather into the 60's today, so i'd like to get in as much testing as humanly possible. Thanks man!

Also, I just went out to hook up my nifty new Solar cell powered battery trickle charger and I was pushing down on the timing belt in between the cam gears to check tension and the intake cam gear was rotating slightly, is that a no no?

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but if the CPS or CAS were bad you wouldn't have spark, right? Or will a 2g still get spark somehow?

I would definitely check your mechanical timing man.

As for the cam gear rotating, that's not bad, unless it rotates A LOT, but usually it is the exhaust side that will have the slack in the belt and be able to rotate easier. Was that without cranking the car at all? Or did it have the slack immediately after cranking it, if you did?

No it was without cranking. I was just pushing down on the center of the belt between the two cam gears and it was definitely the intake camgear that was moving.

I also just found this, I was double checking the wiring when i pulled the 90* elbow off when I replaced the TB gasket and found what looks like someone hacked the shit out of this sensor harness. I have never messed with it, didnt unplug it or anything, but i just now noticed it. Could this be an issue?

But yea, i'm out there already and going to be checking mechanical timing today. Do i still need to remove the pulley's and belts to see that? or is that only during a Timing belt change?

on a side note, the 2g engine bay is an effing disaster with all these damn lines and shit everywhere. I feel like just ripping half of it out for the record, .

another quick question, the car has been sitting for about alittle over 2 months now, would that be a long enough period for the gas (1/2 tank ) to go bad?

Timing at the cam gears was spot on (cant say for sure about the lower timing marks)

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Then you accomplished nothing. ALL marks must be checked.

talon2gbuyer said:

another quick question, the car has been sitting for about alittle over 2 months now, would that be a long enough period for the gas (1/2 tank ) to go bad?

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Nope. My build took over 3 months, and was started up on gas that was from the previous year's summer. It fired up fine. Not only that, but you could boost on it too.

pauleyman said:

Then you accomplished nothing. ALL marks must be checked.

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thank you for that.. that point has been covered here many, many times.

UPDATE--

finally got the lower timing cover off, and snapped a few shots of the oil sprocket timing marks, cam gear timing marks, but couldnt find any on the crankshaft sprocket? The oil sprocket marks are lined up almost perfectly (maybe a hair off, if even that) and the cam gear marks are within a finger nail of each other. But I cannot really say about the camshaft marks, can someone circle those for me on one of the pics? (as I cant figure out how to do that.. :dies: ) Camera was kind of off center for the first pic, I shouldnt have even put it up :/

But here ya go, enjoy and please as usual offer any suggestions you guys may have

a few more. I rotated the engine a few more revolutions, and always came back to the timing marks all in tune as far as I can see.

Is the fuel controller new or used. For s**ts and giggles have tried putting your stock injectors back in and taking the controller out? Also have you done a fuel pressure test what where the results?

You can try unplugging the CAS and CPS and see if it starts up. If your mechanical timing is on and your compression is within acceptable range it is most likely a fuel/spark issue. I had a similar problem on my old 95 GST and it ended up being my CPS (I went through a huge painstaking process of troubleshooting...from fuel pump, injectors, spark plug, ECU etc.). Hope that helps.

Timechg said:

You can try unplugging the CAS and CPS and see if it starts up. If your mechanical timing is on and your compression is within acceptable range it is most likely a fuel/spark issue. I had a similar problem on my old 95 GST and it ended up being my CPS (I went through a huge painstaking process of troubleshooting...from fuel pump, injectors, spark plug, ECU etc.). Hope that helps.

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The car won't run at all with ether of them unplugged. How would unplugging them solve anything?

sordid said:

Nope. My build took over 3 months, and was started up on gas that was from the previous year's summer. It fired up fine. Not only that, but you could boost on it too.

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my 90 sat for 2 years during a rebuild i did at school ... started on the first try

shes a tough old girl and i love her

anyways, are the injector pigtails plugged into the right injectors? i did that and it wouldnt run.

yea at this point im ready to pop the stocker injectors back in. Gotta find a pintle cap for the one, unless someone has a stock injector laying around i can borrow :/

icekilla126 said:

Is the fuel controller new or used. For s**ts and giggles have tried putting your stock injectors back in and taking the controller out? Also have you done a fuel pressure test what where the results?

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i didnt do a test for pressure per say, but i did spray fuel all over the place when i checked to see if fuel was coming out of the rail, and it was and it had some force behind it.

In the last picture you posted, I don't see the oil pump mark. But as long as all 4 marks lined up, then it's good.

I've got a set of stock injectors I could bring if you can't find a pintle cap.