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Need some advice... :(

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Did you happen to take the spark plug wires off? Sometimes people put them back on the wrong cylinders when they reinstall them.

Did you happen to reset your SAFC? That would cause the spark plugs to show a rich condition sense your running 650cc injectors.

Did you try seeing if you have any stored codes on the ECU?

If you have spark, and you have the air, then try spraying some carb cleaner into the intake manifold(using any vacuum line) and try starting it. If it starts and runs for a couple of seconds, then you have a fuel problem.

I hope this helps. Keep us updated.
Tony
 
Tony, I double checked the codes (had a reader plugged in while me and Bri trouble-shooted it) no codes stored.

SAFC still shows the -31% at 800RPM (which is good for base idle with those injectors) and still holding.

Although I am at this point ready to try that carb cleaner trick and see if I sorta jump start it that way. Now which line have people used before? can anyone show me a pic of where I should remove the line and try it from? Im only used to doing that on NA cars, which is just squirting it into the TB directly.
 
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Tony, I double checked the codes (had a reader plugged in while me and Bri trouble-shooted it) no codes stored.

SAFC still shows the -31% at 800RPM (which is good for base idle with those injectors) and still holding.

Although I am at this point ready to try that carb cleaner trick and see if I sorta jump start it that way. Now which line have people used before? can anyone show me a pic of where I should remove the line and try it from? Im only used to doing that on NA cars, which is just squirting it into the TB directly.

Ok, good to know that everything checks out.

You can remove any vacuum line, sense it is just quick start and stop, just to eliminate fueling as a problem. I would use the brake boosted vacuum line, just because it is a larger orifice to shoot into. Here is a 1g diagram depicting the brake booster line. It is connected closer to the throttle body side of 2g intake manifolds, I believe. Take the line off on the intake manifold side, and shoot a stream of carb cleaner into the intake manifold. Then try starting the car ASAP before too much of the carb cleaner evaporates.

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Tony
 
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I had a no start problem and it turned out a bolt got in under the timing belt and threw it off timing.The car would seem like it would want to turn on then blow smoke out the intake filter,or one time from the injector to head area.Checked everything in the book before hand,and it was always the timing.Good luck with your problem.
 
okie dokie, tony, thanks a ton for the diagram! now at least I know where to find this line from and i'll see if I can get this bi*** started today :D Thanks guys!
 
UPDATE---


Tested resistance on the injectors, heres what I came back with:

Inj #1: 2.3 Ohms
Inj #2: 2.4 Ohms
Inj #3: 2.2 Ohms
Inj #4: 2.2 Ohms


I also tried the starter spray with the little nipple on the 2g intake mani (the line that the boost gauge gets T'ed into) and still a no start.
 
I might have missed it the first time, or misread it this time; but you mention having a coolant hose rupture, and then fixing it. You also mention completing a set of modifications before this start-up issue. Can you list them, please?

Tony
 
Have you checked fuel pressure yet? Chance your overfueling and fouling out the plugs, similliar to having a bad ECT. Your compression numbers to me rule out a timing issue, I've had 4g's that will be off by 1 tooth, still read good compression, still fire up and run good minus having poor spool. I've also had a 4g come in 3 teeth off and compression was 0-25-75-110, so I personally don't believe it to be a timing issue, otherwise you'd see it in the compression numbers, or it'd fire up.
 
Your compression numbers to me rule out a timing issue, I've had 4g's that will be off by 1 tooth, still read good compression, still fire up and run good minus having poor spool. I've also had a 4g come in 3 teeth off and compression was 0-25-75-110, so I personally don't believe it to be a timing issue, otherwise you'd see it in the compression numbers, or it'd fire up.

A compression test tells you nothing about ignition/injector timing though; only that mechanical timing is at least close.
 
A compression test tells you nothing about ignition/injector timing though; only that mechanical timing is at least close.

Sorry, should've clarified I meant mechanical timing only. :thumb:
 
Hey all, Ok so here is a somewhat complete list of what I changed/replaced SINCE the broken hose:

-dropped the oil pan, inspected rod bearings and oil pickup screen. Emptied out oil pan lake (?)
-Replaced stock injectors with FIC 650cc injectors (new o-rings all around)
-removed VC and loosened head bolts (was going to check hg, but didn't have to) re torqued per spec.
-re-sealed VC and oil pan; no leaks detected.
-Installed FP 10 micron in-line oil feed filter (as directed by Justin)
-Installed new PCV valve
-Installed MHI 20g turbo (dented water pipe)
-Installed new Thermostat with all new gaskets and water pipe O-ring
-Installed SAFC2 to compensate for larger injectors (mapping starts at -31%)
-Replaced BISS with OEM part with new o-ring
-replaced TB-90 degree gasket with a new one
-checked timing marks at the cam gears (was just about spot on)
-compression tested block (good)
-checked fuel injector resistance (good)
-Replaced Coolant Temp. Sensor (OEM)
-Replaced plugs with BRP7ES Copper plugs (have a spare set too)
-Checked and cleared codes (all that was present was a front o2 sensor heater code)
-Pulled ECU and checked for corrosion/damage (no corrosion at all)
-Resealed BOV flange gasket (BLT result)


That's all I can remember off the top of my head, i'm sure i'm missing some things but nothing altogether major. I'm going to be checking the fuel rail pressure in a little while as I have the fuel rail out while I was checking resistances. Here are two pics of what one of the plugs looked like (this isn't most recent, but this was the first set of plugs when I first noticed they were fouling and also BEFORE i had the SAFC hooked up so saturation is due to not having the controller) Hope this can shed some light for you guys, as I know having more info is better than not having enough.
 

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Do you have any crank walk?
 
UPDATE-

Just did the fuel line pressure test, came back with fuel all over my engine due to me mis-reading the how to and put the end of the fuel rail into a cup, not the fuel line itself LOL. So nothing came out of the fuel rail, but a shitload came out of the line itself.
 
I know 2g's are bad about crank walk and can take the cps out.
 
Just pulled the plugs, I installed these yesterday and did a few crank overs today and this is how they look now.
 

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I know 2g's are bad about crank walk and can take the cps out.

It's also been blown way out of proportion, and mentioned as the cause for everything from a clogged PCV valve to a leaking rear hatch. :)

I'm sure the OP measured the crank thrust bearing clearance (end play) when he had the pan off and inspected the bearings.... right? :D

Just pulled the plugs, I installed these yesterday and did a few crank overs today and this is how they look now.


I thought you said the plugs were fouling immediately? Those look brand new.
 
It's also been blown way out of proportion, and mentioned as the cause for everything from a clogged PCV valve to a leaking rear hatch. :)

I'm sure the OP measured the crank thrust bearing clearance when he had the pan off and inspected the bearings.... right? :D




I thought you said the plugs were fouling immediately? Those look brand new.

you are absolutely right Calan, before brian came over as soon as I cranked the car over it would foul them after a few seconds. Now it seems that it isn't doing it as bad (these are the copper plugs, was using Iridium before) So your guess is as good as mine as to why they just magically stopped fouling LOL

I also did inspect the bearings, but did not do much in the way of measuring crank thrust bearing clearance, but from what I could tell everything looked perfect in the oil pan, no grinding, no metal shavings, no sign of anything out of the ordinary. (with exception to the thrust bearing from a t25 I found in the deep well of the pan, but that was not from what I had on it, as it had a 16g on it when i bought it. )
 
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