I would just save up for DSMlink or keep checking the classifieds for it.. Sorry it doesn't help much.

okay to start off, how close is your setup compared to stock, or is it factory? Mostly wondering about the entire fuel setup. That is the pump/filter,rail/injectors & fuel pressure regulator.

dsmlink is going to be the easiest way to tune / log but you want to make sure your setup was atleast running okay in the first place before you upgrade ANYTHING. All leaks of ANYTHING must be fixed before you go adjusting this, that and the other otherwise you're not doing anything.

I wouldn't ever just slap on some huge injectors and a pump and expect it NOT to be out of whack.

adjust your throttle body cable and the sensors, there's a sweet spot for the TPS. And the BISS adjustment screw, it also has a special sweet spot. Check the functionaility of the sensors themselves, all this ^ using an electrical meter.

2gtalonfwd said:

Whats up guys so finally got my car running again with a freshly rebuilt head...and so now I have air/fuel problems as well as idle problems and for some reason it doesn't want to stay on all the time...so I wanted to know what the cheapest ecu tuning options are any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...I want to get DSMlink or an AEM F/IC but don't have the money...so options please guys?

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if thats all the mods you have why not do a boost leak test? that should fix your rich/lean and idle issues as long as your maf isnt faulty.


cheapest ECU tuning would be Flashable ECU + Tatrix Cable.

Ok viable input guys my car is pretty much stock it just has bolt ons...running a completely stock fuel system...i've had this issue for a long time it seems to sputter and hesitate/buck under low acceleration...and it doesn't take off smoothly in 1st gear either....I have checked all sensors and they're all good...it runs great at WOT but when i try to cruise and drive normal the car starts to act stupid and it also kind of smells like raw gas...I have an SAFC II on it but I don't know how to use it so I left it where the previous owner had it set...any way i might be able to tune with that or should I just remove it..?

I would get your car running good on a stock setup since you dont know how to use the SAFC II and then if you want to try and use it, go for it. But fix all other issues first!!

That's the thing I don't really know what the problem is or what it might be...this is my first DSM ever and I don't know much about these cars or how to work on them...I was hoping someone on here has maybe dealt with it before so maybe I could get some insight on possible causes or even what to do exactly...it's my DD so I need to get it running smooth enough to get me around in peace...as of right now I can't move it without it shutting off...bucking...hesitating or anything...its such a PITA....

Did you do the install yourself? Have you checked and rechecked all your connections? It's going to be a PITA, specially not knowing much about the car. Going to be hard to give you a definitive answer without being there. By the way how do you know your air/fuel is a problem?!

2gtalonfwd said:

I want to get DSMlink or an AEM F/IC but don't have the money...so options please guys?

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http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/406033-tuning-solutions-you.html

...any way i might be able to tune with that or should I just remove it..?

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http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/366004-safc-tuning-how-why.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...c-mid-point-correction-factors-operation.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/105569-how-safc-works.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/58403-definitive-piggyback-tuning-guide.html

No it was on the car when I bought it...and honestly I don't know but judging by the way the car sounds and feels...I'm almost certain thats my issue...if I were to get an EPROM ECU...how do I go about tuning it exactly....I read the links c2ypt1c...very helpful thanks but it still leaves me a little blank on actually getting and tuning using an EPROM...?

Also another question...how do I know if my car came with an EPROM...?

2gtalonfwd said:

if I were to get an EPROM ECU...how do I go about tuning it exactly....I read the links c2ypt1c...very helpful thanks but it still leaves me a little blank on actually getting and tuning using an EPROM...?

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If you read the first link, you would know that an EPROM ECU requires ECMLink for tuning.

EDIT: or you could try this - http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/258831-2g-eprom-tuning.html

Also another question...how do I know if my car came with an EPROM...?

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http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/337343-how-identify-eprom-ecu.html

if your car is a 95 like your profile states, you probably already have a Eprom ecu buddy

For 2gs on a budget looking to tune and have full control over timing and fuel, having an eprom ecu socketed and burning chips will be your cheapest option if your ecu is already eprom. You could get a flashable later 2g ecu and go that route or ecmlink is also an option too.
All options will need a basic knowledge of "tuning" on the user end and something to log with as well as a wideband

I also would like to know what makes you think you're running rich/lean? The car not holding idle can be caused by alot of things, including that, so it's never good to just rule something out like that.

How do you know your sensors are 'good'? Did you mean just plugged in? You actually need to take plugs apart, and ohm out individual pins accordingly to the manual. 1 half bad sensor will cause alot of problems, if not a no-start.

You REALLY need to take a closer look at your throttle body, if it's really factory old chances are the O-ring seals are worn out and leak boost. THIS causes idle problems. Both sensors on the TB need to be working, AND in the dead-on spot. The throttle plate AND the throttle cable need to be adjusted or it the right amount of air won't flow through durring idle (the plate doesn't close all the way when it's closed)

Durring TPS adjustment, you'll also know what percentage of the TB plate is open / closed when you put you press the pedal down all the way and also when you left off.

As far as EPROM, this is what I understand (someone correct me if I'm wrong) most 95 cars came with mostly EPROMs, but you always have to check the insides to be sure, the link above shows what to look for. My 95 talon came with one. EPROM somehow makes tuning alot easier through DSMLINK but as far as the cheaper / more difficult to use evoscan / ECU flash, you will not be able to reflash your ECU, but you can log only using evoscan.

My friend I feal your pain my car acts exactly like yours but mine has 550cc injectors, AEM Fuel Rail, Fuel Lab fuel pressure regulator, 255 Walboro Fuel pump, 16g Turbo exhaust and intake and on top of all its completley untuned. I wish I knew why our cars sputterd and smelt like raw fuel my AEM Wideband defintly tells me that my car is rich, but I have a step bigger fuel injectors I wonder why your stock car has the same sytems? Mabye in your case try replaceing the fuel pump, or fuel filter located along the firewall and pull your fuel injectors check if they are clean, and check your coil pack that also has alot to do with your car hesitating good luck.

Mitsubishigst1999 said:

...550cc injectors..its completley untuned. I wish I knew why our cars sputterd and smelt like raw fuel...

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