DSM1G90 said:

Nah ... you need to physically see the spark jump from electrode to ground on the plug itself with the wires coming direct from the coilpack - none of this inbetween stuff. Who knows: you could have plugs that could have crapped out on you with no external evidence of internal failure - why you take them out, lay them on the block, hit the key and see them spark...but pull the MPI fuse so the injectors won't be shooting fuel into the system when you do this test.

You put that inbetween stuff between wire and plug and it's not going to be the real thing.

Couple things I did forget: 1-When you pulled plugs, were they coal black with soot, wet being soaked with fuel, or normal dry? If coal black with soot, fuel isn't being all burnt off due to super cold firing plugs. 2-DO YOU HAVE A CEL? If you accidently pulled a plug off a sensor with the motor running, you have a good chance of shorting out the driver and blowing a ground strip on the ECU which would easily throw a CEL and give you that crappy hard starting issues...why I mentioned earlier - on a ECU crapping out on you.

Good luck with your find. - DSM

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We did both and I even got new plugs and wires. I pulled the plugs and they were whiteish. Not wet at all.
I don't ever pull anything with car on. And it don't start or run so that wouldn't be it.

I'll check mpi but I've re placed the fuse with 2 other new in pack ones.

comsoldier20 said:

UPDATE: mitsubishi dealership claims that my valves are severely bent and thus have no compression. towing the car back home today and I'm going to start working on taking the head off.

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Sorry to hear that but this is exactly why you don't buy a car that is not running. I don't care what the 'owner says it is' why wouldn't he replace a part and have a running vehicle?

Either way get it fixed and be enjoying that ride!

At least valve replacement is not that hard to do. Good luck. I cant wait to get another DSM!

If all fuel, ignition and related comes checked out, please recheck your timing .. and that means belt timing from the beginning, then head to ignition timing. Worth a shot. - DSM

If I was you I'd stick with a stock ecu. Those standalones are more problems then anything. If you have supporting mods and a big enough turbo to make 800 hp then is say keep it but for 160 bucks u can have a killer tuning system on your car using a open port cable. I would put the stock ecu back in.

Any help for the aem ems v1 would be greatly admired...some bucks to anyone geting my car running

Turns over good, Plugs are firing, fuel squirt from line to fuel rail. No codes come up. Had code earlier for TDC sensor but replaced it twice. When I stop cranking i'll hear what sounds like the fuel pump run for a second. I can get it to start if I turn the key on then unplug the CAS then plg it back in, some times it work, sometimes not so much. sometimes I hear the idle speed thing on the throttle body clicking for a sec. then the fuel pump kick in once when I plug the CAS back in, would that be nomal. Didn't want to start today so I unpluged the CAS first then turned the key to on and I heard a click from inside like ECU relays maybe then the fuel pump. It went off and on like three times in a 5 sec. span before I turned key off. I thought I would do this again but this time run back to the gas tank to listen to be sure it was the fuel pump, turned the key and no sounds. Plugged the sensor back in and it started right up. It idled alittle high even when wormed up, so I turned it off then restarted it and it idled fine. It will start all day today, but if it sits to long(like over nite) it won't. What the heck is going on ?

Oh, It all started when my battery started hissing. Alternator checked out as bad. Replaced batt. and alt. The batt. was moved to the back before I got it. Does the pos. cable usually run straight to the alt. or would it go to the starter. I guess I should search " moving batt. to back". Am I on the right track?

Ok man so you did a six bolt swap so your running a 1g cam angle sensor? The 1g cas has a inverted cam single it is 180 degrees off did you try swapping your 1 and 4 plug wires with 2 and 3.. If they are not inverted it will run pig rich and barely run?

As for getting help with a aem ems not alot of people run them. Im not saying they are bad because they are top of the line tuning system but they just are so hard to set up. If I was you i would call map performance they are very help full.. Other wise another good guy to get ahold of is my1gtunning. I believe he has tuned with just about every tunning system under the sun.. best of luck to you.. Just remember your cas is 180 off so your plug wires and your injector wires need to be swaped.

So I have been looking around the forum for a while now and still haven't come across any threads that explain my kind of problem. The only way I know how to explain it is to start from the beginning...

My mom bought the car, it was running fine minus the fact that the dip stick was spewing oil every where. With the alternator getting a daily oil bath from the dip stick, the alternator went out. So my mom had one of her friends come over to check it out. Upon falling in love with the car, as most do, he decided that he was going to delete all of the vacuum lines for us. Not really what we had in mind, but sure what ever. So it takes 6 months for him to changed the alternator and delete the vacuum lines ( couldn't tell you why other then that he was an idiot). After that the car has run like shit ever since.

When it was back together, the idle started to surge up to 4000 then would bounce down to 1500. My mom drove it about 200 miles like this, until it started to get so bad that she couldn't get it into gear, due to the high revs. At that point I decided to step in. The only reason I hadn't is because I knew for a fact that I did not know what I was doing. But I tried any ways. I went over all the lines to make sure that they were properly capped, which none of them were, and made sure that the EGR plate was tight, which it wasnt. After fixing those problems, the car started, sure, but there was NO POWER. When I say no power, I mean flat ground you could barely get it up to speed. My mom then drove that for 60 miles when it decided to break down completely in Gig Harbor.

This is where I am at now. I went over the turbo, because I heard a massive leak. Come to find out after finally taking the stupid heat shield off, that the four bolts holding the turbo manifold onto the exhaust manifold weren't even finger tight, so I thought that might be the issue. I fixed the exhaust gaskets, and no change; then I found oil ALL over my turbo; time to rebuild. So I rebuilt that, went perfectly, everything is how is should be; for the turbo. Then I come to find out from my mom that she took a dipstick off of another car, that she thought was her car, and put it in the engine and added oil until it said full. Well come to find out that dipstick was actually an inch too short, and she ended up putting in 7 QUARTS OF OIL. I drained the oil, put in the correct amount, and put in the proper dip stick. I found that the first spark plug ( when looking at the engine first on the left) was covered in oil, but when I cleaned it, put in a new spark plug and tried to start it, there was no oil blown through. After all of this, I still haven't been able to get it to start... well after about 8 tries, it will start up, but you have to keep the gas to the floor to make it stay at idle 1200, and I mean keep the pedal to the FLOOR. or else it will die.

Any ideas? I am seriously stuck, I dont know a whole lot about cars, but I know enough to be able to work on them, and I do have help from someone who isn't a total idiot. I am willing to try anything to get this car to run; through all these months of it being dead or worked on, I really have fallen in love with her.

I am in the same predicament with mine.. here's a tip: Tell your mom to keep her damn hands off the car. She obviously has no clue what she is doing (hence wrong dipstick and 7 quarts of oil.. ) and can easily damage or destroy the engine. So please, if you value that car, cut her fingers off or something, but keep her away from the engine.

Protip: don't fall in love with your mom.

Step 1: Boost leak test the car. Don't know how? You'll find a guide on here.

Yeah that was the last time I let her touch the car, it was about three months ago now.

And I didn't fall in love with my mom...Seriously? I was talking about the car... or is that just deep seeded sarcasm...

I'll try the boost leak test and get back on that one.

"Reach around below the intake manifold and make sure the clip is on the starter solenoid all the way and tight (hard to pull it off) also feel around for any loose hardware like the nut which secures the cable to the main copper stud on starter. There should also be a fairly large cable bolted on the transmission. This bolt passes though the trans bellhousing - starter plate and threads into the starter. Check that is tight as well"

In response to this post... What bolt is that cable supposed to be on? Is it the upper one or the lower one that holds the starter. I managed to miss bolting it back up on my last adventure with my electrical issues and can't seem to figure out which one it goes back to. It's a black cable with a yellow stripe isn't it? the ground of the negative battery cable?

I had a problem with mine when I bought it. got a steal on it for that reason.? Will the car start when its jumped? or not even then? When I bought mine the car would start but only when using a jumper wire from the starter to the battery. Turned out to be the grommit for my clutch pedal switch (NSS for manual cars) had fallen out so no contact was being made. Fixed it the day I got it home. The previous owner was not at all happy when i let him know a christmas tree clip fixed his problem!

I know the issue has been solved, but just for anyone who looks at this post in the future.. I skimmed threw the posts real quick and didnt see any one metion that it could be a draw I had this issue, My alternator was drawing power with the car off.. Its very simple to checkk for a draw, with the car off, key out of the ignition pull off any terminal and wire a light bulb from the termal to that battery post and see if it lights up. If it lights up you have a draw if not check what was previously stated by everyone else. This little test will take 5-10 mins, the nightmare part is finding the draw

Okay lets start off by saying my car will not start.

Now what happened was the car started after a bad overheat a week later...

(1 more week later) tried starting it up no start, so i was bored and flushed my radiator system out and tidy up'd a few things...that same day i was like f**** it lemme try and start it, and wala it started so i immediately shut it off maybe after 10 seconds went inside happy...

(1 week later) treid firing it up, crank..crank..crank..crank..crank..crank...nothin.
tried again cran..crank..crank..nothing. wtF!

so i checked for spark ended up needing to replace 1 wire so i replaced all them with some bosch wires from auto zone, and some bpr6 spark plugs.

installed, tried cranking and then it went just like this
crank..crank..crank..CLUNK CLUNK..crank

was very scared of that noise but was very stupid and ambitious..tried one last time

crank..crank.. now it stopped trying to turn over...at this point im not sure if it jumped teeth or what it was so i was messing around with some stuff and didnt realise my ignition was on, i accidently unpluged a injector wire and accidently plugged my radiator wire into my coolant temp. sensor and THATS when something went wrong.. my fuel regulator got very quiet and a few seconds later GAS started to flood out of my BOV so i ran and took my ket out.. now let me fast forward i let the engine ventilate by removing spark plugs for the gas to exit my car slowly leaked gas/oil for about a week or two then randomly gas leaked out of my intercooler piping and ate away my coupler for that...and also my boost gauges and AFR gauge and pyrometer dont light up when i turn the key to on neither does my boost controller (greddy profec b).

one last thing
-I checked for spark replaced all that spark stuff except coil pack..
-I checked for compression and numbers read: 130,140,120,125 (off the top of my head)
-obviously i had fuel shit was leaking like an ocean.

Need some information on what the heck i should do now..what to diagnose..what to even do..oh and my battery is brand new optima redtop, and my alternator has been tested and passed. FML!

Did you get this figured out?

allrice4g63 said:

Ok man so you did a six bolt swap so your running a 1g cam angle sensor? The 1g cas has a inverted cam single it is 180 degrees off did you try swapping your 1 and 4 plug wires with 2 and 3.. If they are not inverted it will run pig rich and barely run?

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This^

1st thing first. A bad overheat equals rebuild automatically. Your compression readings verify you need a rebuild, 120's are low, I think healthy compression is 150+ and you need rebuild around 130. You are in 120's that over heat caused some internal damage. Did you let the engine crank 5 or 6 times before you read your gauge? was your compression test hot or cold? wet or dry?

2nd thing, keep in mind I am not trying to disrespect you in any way, I am just trying to help, but if you plug your injector into the coolant sensor and a fuel line into your blow off valve, you need a professional or at least some one with some experience to at least watch over you as you try to repair. At this point you were trying to "tidy up some" and made things worse it sounds. Now you have a hand full of issues and it would be next to impossible for someone to help over forums.

My advise if professional assistance, the only way you are gonna get that much fuel to burst out your blow off valve is a feed line directly into your intake track ?!?!?!?!!? Seriously tho no offense or disrespect at all but seriously if your doing that you, you need help.

After I drive my car for more then 5 miles and turn it off, the car will not start again for another hour or so. I get power to everything. When I turn the key I hear a clicking noise. What could cause this? The car drives fine when its on it just has the problem with restarting. Could it be a vapor lock? If so where could that be?

I have a 97 GST with Dejon intake, Dejon UICP, Greddy BOV, K&N filter, NXS Motorsports MBC, Ebay 3in cat-back exhaust.

Thank you.

Jason97GS-T said:

After I drive my car for more then 5 miles and turn it off, the car will not start again for another hour or so. I get power to everything. When I turn the key I hear a clicking noise. What could cause this? The car drives fine when its on it just has the problem with restarting. Could it be a vapor lock? If so where could that be?

I have a 97 GST with Dejon intake, Dejon UICP, Greddy BOV, K&N filter, NXS Motorsports MBC, Ebay 3in cat-back exhaust.

Thank you.

Click to expand...

Clicking noise?
When you said restarting, you mean you cant start the car again?
Does the headlight turn on?
Is your battery charged?
Sounds like a battery alt problem from my experiences. Others might have a different input.

Does the key just click over? Or is the car actually cranking and not starting?

Sounds like the battery or alternator, could also be starter if you hear clicking