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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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Ground cable? Anyway to position the battery without strut contact?

My ground cable is a little frayed, but still makes contact with both the neg battery terminal and body. I moved the battery around and fixed the shorting problem, but still wont start.

Anyone? I've confirmed that the buzz is indeed coming from the MPI/MFI relay. What does this mean? what would cause this?? :confused:

As of now I have no power to interior features like dome lights, radio etc
I also dont have the warning chime(like when you leave key in ignition) or dont have a security arming beep. The doors still lock/unlock by remote but no beeps.

anyone have any ideas? I cleaned and clamped down the terminals nice and tight and that didnt solve anything.

I really want my car running :(
 
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I have had my 1992 TSi Talon 'off of the road' for a while why I catch up on some bills to have some money to buy some extra goodies for it. I thought the starter was out on it, because when you went to start it, you would hear a clicking sound. Replaced the starter and still no luck. Come to find out I chased the clicking noise down to a gold box under where the radio goes, you can also feel a clicking when you hold the box..can anyone tell me why this is clicking or how to fix it? All help is appreciated!!
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Battery is not brand new, but it is charged good. It is clicking pretty loud, is it suppose to be just noticable or loud?
 
Have you checked all the simple stuff first. Does it have gas, is there a spark at the plug wire. I bought my 1g and it wouldn't start. Guy said it was a fuel solenoid, although he could push start it. I was sure it was the starter so I bought one put it in and nothing. Then I decided to stick my hand behind the clutch pedal and press the safety switch and turn the keys, came right up. Out 85 bucks for not looking at the easy stuff first. Turns out there is a rubber grommet that fell out,two wire ties and a spare faucet washer later(.25 cents) starts right up every time.:ohdamn:
 
I ran two logs.

Log Oct19a is multiple key turns without the car starting.

Log Oct19b is after the car started but trying to keep it from stalling.

I noticed that the log shows the coolant temp at -40f but the thermostat on my dash does work.

As usual the car takes multiple key turns (7 or more) to start then after it starts it will stall and hitting the gas makes it stall more until the engine warms up. After the engine warms all is good. Starts and runs fine.

http://www3.telus.net/public/a6a09335/Oct19%20a%20KeyTurns%20NoStart.dat

http://www3.telus.net/public/a6a09335/Oct19%20b%20Warming%20But%20Stalling.dat
 
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Ive now come to think the problem is in the wiring someplace, somewhere. Where should I start looking? I checked the ECU and everything seemed good (good caps, no fishy smell, no goop etc) I've checked all the wiring from the ECU and it all looked normal and I unplugged the alarm system with no luck. The battery terminals are clean and clamped down tight.

I wouldn't be as worried about this problem if I still had power to interior accessories. I don't have power to radio, inside lights. I DO however still have power windows, headlights, blinkers, wipers, locks etc.

Any new thoughts? :confused:
 
well guys i seem to have done the worste thing, i gave up. i caved in and towed my car to my mechanic and let him figure the problem out. should be fixed by end of today so il post what was wrong with it for those that were wondering.

shame i couldn't do it myself but i really appreciate all you guys here for help and advice.
 
Have you checked to see if the battery has a charge? Check the fuses. Make sure the cables to the battery and any attaching connectors are making good contact ( no corrosion in the battery cables that creates high resistance )
 
Check alternator fuse in your fuse box near you intake. IF the fuse is blown / broken it will definatly cause your car not to turn on, and when your alternator is on its way out you will loose the power to your stereo and heater/air controls. i had the exact same problem, get you alternator tested trust me it can very well be the culprit. along with the fuses, easiest way to check them is to go one by one but CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE first =) took me a long time to look at the simple things first. Hope some of this can help you out
 
Yes the click is always loud, is the single black wire in good shape connected to the starter solenoid? is it getting voltage? all your ground clean ie battery terminals? if the battery is old an you charged it, the polarity can be reversed.
 
Check alternator fuse in your fuse box near you intake. IF the fuse is blown / broken it will definatly cause your car not to turn on, and when your alternator is on its way out you will loose the power to your stereo and heater/air controls. i had the exact same problem, get you alternator tested trust me it can very well be the culprit. along with the fuses, easiest way to check them is to go one by one but CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE first =) took me a long time to look at the simple things first. Hope some of this can help you out

thanks for the reply. All the fuses are still good and a I'm 98% sure the alternator is still good as well. just the day before this happened I tested the alternator by removing the neg battery lead while the car was running and it continued to run, so good alt still. Anything else It may be? I 100% sure its not the battery, and I'm 100% sure i have ground connection from the battery. The car wont start even when i try to jump it.

I've tried everything and still have a sitting car :(

UPDATE: She Starts! Got her going, but still don't have power to radio, inside lights, alarm beeps, warning beeps etc. any suggestions? all fuses look good still.
 
I traced the CTS wire and found a short. Should be the end of the problem.

Thanks for the help.
 
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Update:

Alright, I've got a good compression numbers. And by good, I mean, "Should be accurate." These were pulled with the following conditions. Engine at operating temp, wide open throttle, one spark plug pulled at a time.

#4: 65 psi
#3: 20 psi
#2: 25 psi
#1: 20 psi

:cry:

Again, I ran out of daylight, so I couldn't really investigate further. (I wish for about the 3.7 trillionth time I had a f**king garage.)

I plan to pour some motor oil in each cylinder, and re-run the test. If the test yields the same numbers, I should be able to eliminate the piston rings as being the culprits. Would this be correct?

I drained about a quart of oil a few weeks ago, and I didn't see any water/antifreeze in it. But this was also from the top of the oil pan; the turbo oil drain fitting, to be specific. Live data shows coolant temp anywhere from 200 to 220°F, depending on conditions, yet the ECU won't leave open loop fuel operation due to "insufficient coolant temp." I was also fighting an overheating issue after everything was assembled for the first time, but I did my damnedest to make sure the temp gauge never red-lined. That's not to say it never did, though.

With the #4 cylinder being 200% higher than the other three, I should be able to eliminate incorrect timing as the main problem, right? I suppose it wouldn't even matter, since pulling the head back off is inevitable.

Would a low battery make any significant difference in the test results? It's been forever since this car ran correctly, but it seems to me that she cranks a little slowly. Also, the battery seems to discharge rather quickly. It's about 4 years old.
 
had this issue with my car, the secuity key has contacts deteriorating and would make the noise, battery was new, terminals all cleaned, grounds all taken off and sanded to make sure, and after soldering it car starts great everytime
 
double check timing, and did you bleed the lifters b4 you put them back in?

at first i was leaning towards an ignition system issue (could be part of the problem still) but your compression is insanely low.

im thinking timing, lifters stuck or bad rings.

i dont see how the oil in the cylinders test is going to rule out the piston rings. if its the same readings or a hair higher, that could still be an issue. a warm engine compression test would be just as good as putting oil in the cylinders essentially.

also, just because one cylinder is higher, doesnt necessarily mean the timings on.

double check that stuff. hopefully you didnt install the rings upside down ### that would cause some problems..
 
double check timing, and did you bleed the lifters b4 you put them back in?

at first i was leaning towards an ignition system issue (could be part of the problem still) but your compression is insanely low.

im thinking timing, lifters stuck or bad rings.

i dont see how the oil in the cylinders test is going to rule out the piston rings. if its the same readings or a hair higher, that could still be an issue. a warm engine compression test would be just as good as putting oil in the cylinders essentially.

also, just because one cylinder is higher, doesnt necessarily mean the timings on.

double check that stuff. hopefully you didnt install the rings upside down ### that would cause some problems..


I'll check the timing again, but she should be dead nuts on. I've replaced the timing and balance shaft belts on this thing about three times now, and have had the timing off once. I'm very well aware of how easy it is to muck up the timing, so I took great care to get it right when I had the engine out. But, it's probably a moot point since I'm at least pulling the camshafts out.

As for the lifters, I did NOT bleed them when I put the head back on. The entire head assembly was bought used off of ebay. The owner claimed it had about 20,000 miles on a rebuild, and was pulled off of a running engine. I'll take that with a grain of salt. Other than ensuring the valves all opened and seated (with no oil pressure), I did nothing with it.

I've also had an associate ask if I bled the lifters when I first mentioned the engine's refusal to start. Apparently, they can cause some starting issues after rebuilds... :hmm: Would that really contribute in any significant way to stupid-low compression though??

With that said, does anybody have any tricks for pulling the lifters without removing the camshafts? I'm trying to delay the inevitable installing-timing-belt-with-engine-installed procedure.
 
So I've had this car for a few months and I went to a friends house, just to say this is my DD. the only other time this failed me was when the mpi fuse blew. About same issues, but checked that.

Let me first say the changes I've made in the past month or so. Well really nothing but a fmic and I drove it with that on. No problems.

Anyways, so went to my buddy's house. Went to start the car to move it, started and moved fine. Pulled back in and turned it off. To try to fix the problem, I've checked all fuses(fine)
Fuel pressure didn't pressure check it but it Wasnt spraying so then we put the stock fpr back on. After we put stock back the inj were spraying. All 4. Put rail back and went and checked plugs. They all sparked. I checked cas voltage. Pin 3 was 5.0v and and the other 12.0v or other way around. Anyway said that in the chiltens book, and it's right.

So it cranks and gets fuel and sparks. Just don't start, hot or cold.

Any help from anyone would be great ful.

Thanks for the help, fellow DSMers
 
Only thing left might be air? I would give the intake system a gander. MAF?
 
I call it timing if others are in order.

Did you physically lay the plugs on the head and actually saw each plug spark as you cranked it... What color is the spark - a fat blue or a weak yellow? Weak yellow spells signs of coil issues and compression is snuffing out the spark.


..or, an ECU is going funky on you.
 
that form of test for your alternator isnt to accurate as far as i know, just to double check go to oreiyls auto parts and simply have them test it while on the car to make sure everything is ok, trust me i had the exact problem, worth a final shot since its free an easy to test it while on the car =) just atleast try it you never know =)
 
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