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spadepro22

15+ Year Contributor
1,206
10
Mar 13, 2008
Seneca, South_Carolina
Well I think I want to learn to tune my own car. All mods in my profile are up to date. I've done blt, timing is good, tsp is .63 with car off and .65 with car running, throttle postion is 0 at idle, iscposition is set to 30, but keeps moving during log, no dtc/cel codes and I've watched all how-to videos(will need to watch some more tho).

Here's my first logs for you guys to look at.
 

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Ok did you even look at this demo yet?

http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/fueltrim.html

First off you need to make sure you have 750cc injectors selected which you have them set at 700cc. Then verify that you have 43psi fuel pressure.

Use this as a starting point for deadtime
baseinjectordata [ECMTuning - wiki]

Zero out your fuel sliders.

Zero out your mafcomp sliders

Then do a log and watch your airflowPerRev and bring up the demo video and then try to shaddow how he adjusts the mafcomp sliders to get idle .25gm/rev
 
Ok did you even look at this demo yet?

http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/fueltrim.html

First off you need to make sure you have 750cc injectors selected which you have them set at 700cc. Then verify that you have 43psi fuel pressure.

Use this as a starting point for deadtime
baseinjectordata [ECMTuning - wiki]

Zero out your fuel sliders.

Zero out your mafcomp sliders

Then do a log and watch your airflowPerRev and bring up the demo video and then try to shaddow how he adjusts the mafcomp sliders to get idle .25gm/rev

Watched all videos and yes I've varified that I have 750cc. Ecm asked the size of my injectors and set that up on the chip. They have 748. Fuel pressure for a 1g is 37 and it is adjusted to that. I'll have to zero out tomorrow and log. So it should be .25gm/rev for a 1g m/t?
 
1. You have something extremely funky going on with your WB. My guess is that the output isn't configured correctly, or isn't hooked up properly.

2. You need to change anything below 10.5 in the OpenLoopMaxOct DA table to 10.5 or so. Anything below that is very rich.

3. See #1. :D

What do you think is wrong with the wb? The yellow wire is connected to pin 4 on the ecu, brown unhooked, white unhooked, red to 12 volt source. How should it be reading?
 
Not sure what's going on, but the WB signal should be an analog trace, limited by the resolution of the logging data rate. Yours is a square wave for some reason (in the "35-40 Cruise.elg" log).

Maybe Brian will pop in... he's much more familiar with the LC-1 (I'm a Zietronix guy LOL
 
The yellow wire is connected to pin 4 on the ecu, brown unhooked

This is backwards. The brown wire (from the factory) outputs the 0-5v signal, where the yellow wire (narrowband sim from the factory) outputs a 0-1v signal.

So you either need to reprogram the yellow wire to be the same as the brown wire, or disconnect the yellow wire and wire up the brown wire to pin 4.
 
Not sure what's going on, but the WB signal should be an analog trace, limited by the resolution of the logging data rate. Yours is a square wave for some reason (in the "35-40 Cruise.elg" log).

Maybe Brian will pop in... he's much more familiar with the LC-1 (I'm a Zietronix guy LOL

His is square because he is using wb simulation and not a true calculated signal like an oem sensor would read.
Unless he changed it since his other thread.
 
His is square because he is using wb simulation and not a true calculated signal like an oem sensor would read.
Unless he changed it since his other thread.

No, I'm talking about the actual WB signal itself; not the front O2. His LC-1 is putting out the wrong waveform for an analog WB signal. The voltage is correct, but the waveform is wrong.

Normal WB signal:

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OP's WB signal:

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OP - Have you changed the programming in the LC-1? I'm not familiar with it (or what you can do with it software-wise), but it looks like you are logging a narrowband signal that for some reason is switching in a 0-5v range. I have no idea why this would be, but it definitely looks that way.
 
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Yes, Craig just didn't read your profile and called me in here :p

You have the MTX-L installed correctly.

Thank God, I was like man I have to pull the ecu again. I don't know if you checked out my logs, but I'm going to zero out fuel and mafcomp and try to dial in gm/rev and combft idle after work. I'll post logs back then.
 
Thank God, I was like man I have to pull the ecu again.
dont know if you checked out my logs, but I'm going to zero out fuel and mafcomp and try to dial in gm/rev and combft idle after work. I'll post logs back then.

I think you missed the point here. Your WB may be wired up correctly, but it's still not putting the right signal out to the ECU.

Until you get that fixed, you aren't going to be able to do anything, since all of your fuel trims are being calculated from a simulated NB signal....which is being derived from an inaccurate WB signal. Look at the images I posted up there ^^ in #9.
 
Craig, that appears to just be the sample interval of the MTX-L. I've attached a shot from another MTX-L user here.

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Certainly not the fastest output around, but (as I'm sure you know) that alone doesn't mean it's inaccurate necessarily. It just updates its output more slowly than the LC-1.

Thomas Dorris
ECMTuning, Inc.
 
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Craig, that appears to just be the sample interval of the MTX-L.

Thanks for jumping in Tom.

I'm not sure if you actually measured the samples in that log, but they are over one second intervals. That can't be right...can it? A choppy signal from a lower grade WB I can see... but over ONE SECOND of resolution? I could blow 5 motors from knock in that amount of time. LOL

If that is "normal", then:

1. That WB is completely useless, and
2. The MTX-L is using the crappiest A/D converters I've ever seen. :)
 
they are over one second intervals
OK, now that you've mentioned specifically what it is you're looking at, that does seem crazy. Your previous comments were just about the "square wave" nature of the "funky" signal. :) So I was referring only to the shape of the signal, not so much the specifics.

The general shape is just a result of the slower update interval of the MTX-L. That part is to be expected.

But that update rate should be more like 0.25 seconds, not over a full second. Of course, that's still enough time to blow about 1.25 motors, though, if we assume you could blow 5 in 1 second. :)

But, yeah, something's not right with that update rate. That's WAY too slow.

Thomas Dorris
 
feel free to let us know when you figure out why it's doing that oh wise one. LOL
I'm just listed as a "supporting vendor". You're the wiseguy...I mean wiseman. :sneaky:

I looked at the MTX-L manual just now. In the "advanced" settings section of the MTX-L configuration, there's a "response speed" option. But the options are 1/12 sec, 1/6 sec and 1/3 sec. Definitely nothing like 1+ sec.

I'll call up Innovate in a bit and see if they have any suggestions.

Thomas Dorris
 
I'm just listed as a "supporting vendor".

Meh... that's just a disguise and we all know it.

You're the wiseguy...I mean wiseman.

I believe my actual title is "Wiseass"... but Chris wasn't comfortable with putting that in my avatar. :p

I looked at the MTX-L manual just now. In the "advanced" settings section of the MTX-L configuration, there's a "response speed" option. But the options are 1/12 sec, 1/6 sec and 1/3 sec. Definitely nothing like 1+ sec.

I'll call up Innovate in a bit and see if they have any suggestions.

Thomas Dorris

You rock. :hellyeah:

Do I need to change this?

It looks like you are already on the fastest sample rate. And as Tom mentioned, even the slowest sample rate doesn't explain the 1+ second intervals you are seeing. Something else is going on.
 
It looks like you are already on the fastest sample rate.
For the record, he just posted a screen grab from the MTX-L manual. That's not necessarily what his particular unit is configured for. Regardless, as you said, even if he was set to the slowest option (1/3 second), that still doesn't explain the 1+ second responses.

I've got a call into Innovate. Hopefully they'll get back to me before I forget everything we've talked about.

Thomas Dorris
 
If I'm not mistaken, when I soldered to pin 4 the white wire was cut and there were some wires tied into it. I couldn't trace one of them, but I did trace one that was grounded. I didn't disconnect because, I don't know what they went to.

The blue wire(you can see it coming in from the back) is solderd to the bottom of the white wire, and it was cut higher up. Then the there are the black wires tied into it. They are grounded to that srew in the background.
 

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