The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support Rix Racing

Crank timing gear bolt removal?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JONSHERER

10+ Year Contributor
35
0
Aug 20, 2011
IL, Illinois
My crank timing gear bolt is totally froze and my timing belts off so I have no way of holding the engine in place. Maybe I'm turning it the wrong way?(left). You would think that on a clockwise engine to loosen the bolt you would turn it the way the engine spins which is right. But everyone online shows left. Any suggestions?
 
You need to use an impact wrench or if you have the transmission off I suppose you could try holding the crank in place using one of the flywheel bolts.
 
Iv tried an impact gun and it won't work. And my trans is still on the only thing that's apart is my timing stuff. The whole reason for doing this is I'm replacing my balance shaft belt. Anyways do you know what way the bolt unscrews??
 
The bolt unscrews counter clockwise. Put a half inch breaker bar in the center and wedge it against the ground pointing towards the back of the car. Then give the starter a quick bump. That will break it free.
 
Just remove your valve cover, after that, you will see the cam with a square section where you can put an adjustable wrench to hold the cam, just put the wrench and loose the bolt, the wrench can rest at the same head, so it is easier to loose the bolt.
Check this site, It is not a 2g, but the cams are pretty much alike.
Check and read on pic #18
EVO Performance Parts | EvoMoto.com

Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
If the cams are resting (not pushing valves open) you won't bend anything.
 
Huh. Well il be trying this tomarow morning. My best bet is to turn the cams so they arnt pushing anything open realy and try to tap it loose with the starter. Il give it a try but if anyone else knows anything else feel free to post
 
There is no way you can remove the bolt using the starter.

The only way is to use an Impact and hold the gear from turning.

To use a bar and find the way to insert it between the gear to lock it, and be able to loose the bolt. ( I wouldn't suggest this method, which you can end up braking or bending the gears).

The other option which it is the most safe, is the one I all ready stated before.
 
I've heard of alot of people using the starter. Dude I can't hold onto the cams and unscrew the crank bolt if the timing belt isn't on. That would be pointless.

Also my impact gun isn't strong enough
 
Spray the bolt with PB blaster and let it soak. Then try the impact again. What kind of impact are you using, and are you using the square end with no socket? Edit: just seen you said the impact is not strong enough.
 
Can someone remind me why one couldn't put the trans in a HIGH gear and bust it loose that way? High gear would be so the car couln't creep as much and you could keep it from moving with less effort. That would make sure the crank don't move and bend valves
 
Just remove your valve cover, after that, you will see the cam with a square section where you can put an adjustable wrench to hold the cam, just put the wrench and loose the bolt, the wrench can rest at the same head, so it is easier to loose the bolt.

He is talking about the crank bolt, not the cam gear bolts.

There is no way you can remove the bolt using the starter.

You don't have any idea what you are talking about. The starter will break the bolt loose ever time. The starter has FAR more torque than any impact that you can buy. Put a socket on a breaker bar, put it on the bolt, than lay it on the control arm. Than just hit the key and it will break it loose instantly.


Spray the bolt with PB blaster and let it soak.

Pb blaster won't help any here. The threads aren't exposed, so it won't get into them. This isn't an issue with rust anyway, the bolt is just tight.
 
I Just reread your post, no wonder I was OFF.

I was talking about CAM bolts.:banghead:

Sorry for my ignorance :D

Just make sure you put your cam gears on the rest position and you will be OK with the starter method, put some WD 40, spray it very well, leave it for a couple of hours and respray again, If you can leave it all night like that, I bet you will be very lucky next day when you try it again.:sneaky:
 
Bryan what's wrong with what I said in post #14? We had to do it that way on our Dakota since the battery was out and it worked great...can the OP do it that way safely?

I'm with B on this one, penetrating oil won't make a difference.

And since when are our engines non-interference? Some valves will always be open even at 'resting' so using the starter still won't turn out so well
 
Put the dowels straight up on the cam gears and do the starter method. Ive done it numerous times and never had an issue.
 
I recently had this problem, i put a crow bar in the flywheel and then used an impact gun. If you struggle then put a wrench or ratchet on the bolt first and shock it with some hits in the direction of loosening it thats the way i did it and it came off so fast with the impact gun, oh and mine was electric and not very good either so it will work. You do need 2 people for this though as the 2nd guy holds the bar in the fly wheel for you.
 
And since when are our engines non-interference? Some valves will always be open even at 'resting' so using the starter still won't turn out so well

There is a point (actually 4 points per cam) where the cam angle is between cycles, so there are no valves open. Without the belt on, the cams will naturally go to this position. Even if the valves were to sit open a hair, there is almost always enough room to hit TDC without valve contact. The few exceptions would be very high comp pistons, head milled to far, cams with seriously increased duration, etc.

But if the OP is worried about valve contact, I would simply suggest rotating the engine by hand. Just one full rotation will clear any suspicion of valve contact.
 
When I did my timing I also had the belt off. I used the starter trick and it went flawlessly. I guess I should note, however, I may or may not have had my cams removed at the time - but I also don't recall seeing/hearing the rotating assembly spinning round and round when I did it.

I do clearly recall that nasty scent that came from beneath the cam caps, though.
 
Interesting. I either need to try the starter trick and hope I don't shred my starter or flywheel or find a way to rent a heavy duty impact gun because mine sucks. I'm gonna look into a heavy duty impact gun before I try the starter

Will be trying the starter method. Got my valvecover off. The cams are lined up were my timing belt was set at tdc and it doesn't seem like there pushing the valves open that much if any at all. Gonna throw a breaker bar on and get the job done all ready. Besides were I have my cams now at tdc is there any other way they should be to assure no problems
 
Here's the easiest way to get the crank bolt off. Douse the bolt with PB blaster to try to have some make it to the threads within. Take a lit torch and heat up JUST the bolt itself. The pb blaster is flamable.

Try also aiming the flame on the very circular edges of the bolt, see if anything burns off.

make sure the air compressors on a high setting. Put a 22mm on the impact, and use it on the bolt (in reverse) that should get it right out. Let the bolt fall and cool off for a while. Make sure you put the socket on the impact, and don't just use the square in the middle, people have reported breaking the crank bolt that way.

If the bolt still doesn't budge, keep dousing it in PB over the week and try again.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top