Did anyone even look at the log? Wideband or not, that front O2 reading, combined with a steadily rising IDC, tells me that fuel pressure dissapears.

It's time to recheck your pump install... and buy a damn wideband if you have any pistons left.

Colt4G63 also said:

Did anyone even look at the log? Wideband or not, that front O2 reading, combined with a steadily rising IDC, tells me that fuel pressure dissapears.

It's time to recheck your pump install... and buy a damn wideband if you have any pistons left.

Click to expand...

Fuel pressure could also disappear as per a baf fpr. If the diaphram never closes any more than it sits at idle then that could be the issue as well.

But what you say is correct also and a, more likely situation.

MJcanada said:

Fuel pressure could also disappear as per a baf fpr. If the diaphram never closes any more than it sits at idle then that could be the issue as well.

But what you say is correct also and a, more likely situation.

Click to expand...

Man that is a brand new fuelab afpr with the upgraded fuel feed -6an lines and return lines, it's not the pump it's done it with two different Wally 255s this one is the high pressure 255 also. Could it be an
Injector acting up? They are fic 1150s about 3 months old.

I have one of these, and it's worth the $59 because it saved my engine when my fuel pressure was dropping while pushing 30 pounds of boost.
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/white-7-color-100psi-fuel-pressure-gauge.aspx



I had perfect pressure during idle, and at 20 psi of boost, but at 30 psi of boost, my fuel pressure would ramp up as expected, then drop like a rock after 5000 rpm.

Your issue could be wiring, or a feed line leak inside your tank, or a defective regulator, but there's no denying there's a problem. All I'm saying is that you need to check fuel pressure during a pull.

Ok I will set up my GOPRO videoing my fpr gauge during pull

So what's the story with this?

Ended up pulling the motor out of the car, checked for end play I'm good on that. Also putting a 16g an ac back on the car, I'm going to be taking a really good Lool at my wiring harness while the motor is out.

Sheesh this thread has finally pushed me over the edge to pick up a wideband.

Keep us updated OP.

Installed my motor today, Fixed several things while it was out, also several different parts. Changed Crank trigger plate to a brand new one, New Crank Sensor, Re-Did Timing belt Dead on, Fixed several wiring issues, Installed AC, Complete New Turbo and exhaust system, FP manifold with evo 3 16G, Installed Stock Big fans , Changed the tune alot...Problem Continues...

It does it mostly at 2500 now, feels like brakes are being put on as usually then clears up by 3k and pulls normal...

The only thing i can think of it being is an Injector acting up, but its wierd the car runs completely normal out of that rpm range. I think just in a last ditch effort, im going to put the stock 450cc's back in just to test, Maybe even the stock ECU. I cannot figure this out, HELP.

And what about your fuel pressure? You haven't said since you were going to film it if it was good?

It's wierd it's done it with two different pumps, with the stock fpr and now with the afpr still does it.

Literally If I'm in 5th gear cruising which is usually in the 2k rpm range, and I punch it. It literally feels like the breaks are being put on and she struggles to accelerate and breaks up but I'm serious as soon as it hits 3k it's like it instantly runs normal again and pulls. Anything above 3k it runs normal basically.

Ahh....sounds like your valve timing is off. You need to degree or re-degree your cams. Seems like your at least 6 degrees or more off on each. When setting the timing on these evo8 cams once I got off by a tooth on both (which is about 9 degrees) and thats how it ran.

Idled like a v8 with big cams. Had a serious lope to it. Had only -2psi at idle. Under 3k it was really rough. after 3k it would run like hell!

Ok I have 272 264 cams, with skunk 2 adjustable gears, my gears are on zero though. So I should degree them? But it hasn't always done this either and they have always been Zeroed.

here is a screen shot of the misfire at 2500 rpm , you can see how the graph is jumping around crazy from it misfiring. It almost looks as if the injectors are just going wild?

Well it ws, anything below 3k with me not just btwn 2.5-3k If they have always been zero i'd leave them that way.

Your o2 is, reading rich at that point and your afr is 12.2@ a cruising speed?

This act up never sets a cel? You check for any vacuum leaks anywher?

If the cyl misfire cel is enabled on link, it will throw a random misfire code and run like a Subaru, apparently it turns off one of the injectors. But as long as the box is not checked and link is not looking for a misfire cel it will run but has this problem as well.

Im Starting to think i have a bad knock sensor, I know there is some form of goop coming out of it... What are the symptoms of a bad one? This is literally the last thing i can think of.

Why are you pulling so much fuel on your sliders? Are you using your fuel sliders to get afratioest where you want? The very instant the ecu switches over to openloop you have that much fuel removed. Look at your logs to see when it switches over and compare that to when your issue starts. For example, 3rdpullaug25. 43.5 seconds in it switches to openloop. The maxoct table is targeting 14.7, you have the mafcomp at -9.4% (could be correct), and your fuel slider is -23%. Wow dude.

You have your DA maxoct table set to target 9.6/9.5. Why? You need to change this table to target what you want depending on the fuel you're running. Expect to change this when you change your fuels.

How did you determine some parts of your mafcomp? You have air [fuel] removed at every point the ecu is certainly to be openloop. It could be correct, just curious how you were able to determine the 6 7 8 900hz etc settings.

Also, why is your TPS scale 130%?

I would start with zeroing out your fuel sliders across the board and changing your target values in the DA maxoct table.

I really dont know how to use the DA tables honestly, Is there a tutorial somewhere?

For the OpenLoopMaxOct table, you will just set the cells to what AFR you desire to run. Then you tune your MAF Comp sliders/SD table so that your AFRatioEst matches up with your wideband. Then if you want to change your AFR, you just go change the necessary cells in the DA table.

For the TmngMaxOct table, you just set the cells to what timing you desire. If you have other factors that affect timing (coolant temp too high, knock, etc.), then it'll adjust your desired timing. But if everything's good, then you'll get what you set.