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Lifter tick/rod knock/bent vavle?

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Hortanica

10+ Year Contributor
93
0
Mar 22, 2010
Gasport, New_York
Quick history: engine started out as rebuilt 6 bolt block with 7 bolt head (head stud holes bored out for larger studs). i sold the car, a week later the guy called me saying a coolant line blew apart, and the car overheated. Head gasket was toast (MLS) replaced gasket with composite one, same issues (pushing coolant, head gasket showed damage even new one) Engine also has a BSE kit on it (i did not build this engine, it was in a car i purchased and pulled for use in another one...)

Took head back off, turned out it was warped pretty good, and it was decked way past the limit so i said screw it and put on a 6 bolt head that i had in the garage that was on a working motor. put it in the car, and now it gives this abnoxious ticking noise.

I know it could be rod knock, lifter tick, or bent valve but it seems REALLY loud to be lifter tick, but its 100% consistent which doesnt seem to be rod knock (changes perfectly with revs, load has no effect, and pulling injectors noise stays 100%)

heres a video to show what i mean. any ideas before i start tearing apart everything?

Dsm engine noise - YouTube
 
Dude. That is definitely NOT lifter tick. I have the original OEM lifters (lash adjusters) in my 1g and they only tick for about 15 seconds on start up, and it's never ever that loud.

That sounds like rod knock to me sorry to say.
 
Theres no metal shavings in the oil, ive drained it already and refilled it already.

I also know it sounds like rod knock, but my first dsm had rod knock, and ive helped other friends who have developed rod knock, and again i know it sounds like it the characteristics are completely different. This sounds more like when one of my cars had a balance shaft bearing go out. it changes PERFECTLY with rpm's, and load has 0 effect on it. every case of rod knock ive dealt with, those 2 things do not hold true.


I also am doing this work for free, but the guy is helping me out with tools and stuff (i dont really need the money, and hes being very cool and patient with the situation, plus a 3/4" impact and other tools go nicely in my collection :) ) but me doing the work doesnt bother me. I traded the car, it had issues pretty quick after getting rid of it that i never had, on an engine i didnt build so i want to make sure its taken care of for him.
 
A mechanic's stethoscope could be a great help in narrowing down where the noise is coming from. That is a horrible noise, but I would be inclined to think it could be one or more stuck lifters since it just started with the new head install. Best of luck bud..
 
Theres no metal shavings in the oil, ive drained it already and refilled it already.

I also know it sounds like rod knock, but my first dsm had rod knock, and ive helped other friends who have developed rod knock, and again i know it sounds like it the characteristics are completely different. This sounds more like when one of my cars had a balance shaft bearing go out. it changes PERFECTLY with rpm's, and load has 0 effect on it. every case of rod knock ive dealt with, those 2 things do not hold true.


I also am doing this work for free, but the guy is helping me out with tools and stuff (i dont really need the money, and hes being very cool and patient with the situation, plus a 3/4" impact and other tools go nicely in my collection :) ) but me doing the work doesnt bother me. I traded the car, it had issues pretty quick after getting rid of it that i never had, on an engine i didnt build so i want to make sure its taken care of for him.

when I first heard the noise it took me back to my audi. The starter plate between the block and trans was bent and the torque converter bolts were snagging it. If it's a manual I don't know what could be causing it then
 
Pull the plug wire in the cylinder you think it is. Usually, rod knock will lighten up when you pull the plug wire.
Were the lifters bled down before installed into the head? If not, you could've bent a valve or 2. Keep us informed.
 
It is a manual and I've experienced flywheel.bolts loosening up.and this isn't that. I did not bleed the lifters but I didn't think I had to since the head was on a motor that was pulled and cams were never removed.

And as far as pulling plugs, thats what i did in the video and the noise didnt change at all. Heads coming out today when im out of class so i will keep this updated.
 
Head just came off.

bottom end is fine. Head/Lifters/Valves are fine.

something (looks like spark plug electrode) was in there and lodged in the head, and the piston was hitting it. There doesnt look to be any damage to the cyl walls, head, or the piston except where you can see it bounced a couple times. but no cracks, creases, or any sharp edges that will make hot spots or anything. And since im putting in a built 6 bolt in this car over the winter, he said just put a new head gasket in and put it back together. Ill try and get some pics of the damage first but...yep. there was crap in Cyl 3....
 
No, I think he was on the right path. It had to do with cylinder 3, as you can hear a slight pitch change when he pulls the injector.. btw why did you yank the injector instead of the spark plug boot?
 
The idea is to cut combustion from that cylinder. Since you need spark and fuel all you need to do is cut one. And.I've.had my share of shocks from pulling plug wires while its running to know to pull injector clips instead LOL. Plus if you just pull the plug your.still getting fuel into the cylinder to foul out the spark plug or cause other issues since that fuel is being pushed unburnt through the exhaust.

And again your right you.can definitely tell Cyl 3 is the issue. But if i pulled the pan and checked rod bearings i would have gotten no where.other than confirming it wasnt rod knock.
 
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