I would leave your CAS right in the middle while you're troubleshooting.

Code 13 is IAT sensor code. Intake air temperature. You might want to check the wires running to the plug on your MAF, and also check your ECU. It's easy to pull, only takes about 10 minutes to pull out, and it may be the source of your problem.

*EDIT* Looking in my Haynes manual, it appears that all of the codes you are posting are referring to the mass airflow meter.

thats what i read too so i pulled it after checking the connections found that it had been attempted to be hacked by previous owner so i but in a 2g mas to try and fix the issue but didnt help so i hooked the original one back on still have the same codes an ive looked at the cpu and it appears to be fine i just havent checked the voltage to the cpu in the plugs so besides that im at a loss

As far as I know, you can't just plug in a 2g mas and go. You have to have some way to tune for it, so that's probably why it isn't helping any. Maybe go to a junkyard and find another car with a MAS that hasn't been ghetto fabbed.

thats what i was thinking too but i had one so i tried it and im going to look tomorrow for one but there are not very many of these 1gs out here and i probably wouldnt have bought the car if it wasnt a steal of a deal haha

If you just plug in a 2g mas it will lean it out.

You can get away with 550s and a 2g mas on a stock tune very easily.

thats what I did, I put in 550s and still no start or start and fire only on 2 and 1 cylinders for a short time, that wasnt the problem as far as I know

If your MAF is bad, you should be able to unplug it and start the car, and it should hold an idle (higher, but still hold it). Just don't drive like that, but I diagnosed a few bad MAFs that way. Also visual inspection won't tell you much about the condition of the ECU, find a professional (I always recommend ECMTuning) that can bench test each component.

love too but i dont have a bottomless pocket im ignoring the mas issue for now as that should not keep the car from missing on two cylinders that the big problem right now im going to look for blown caps tomorrow when i can have some light

dont know if it will help as im helping him with this prob
the spark i idle is extremely fast as in WOT fast. you can get it to start by pulling the wires and letting them ark ( fount that out when i forgot to snug them up )
this on has me at a loss it ran grate yesterday

yeah that doesnt make sense to me either, anyone else know why?????? haha we are kinda struggling

Spark is fast? As in timing advanced? CAS adjustment was mentioned, I would make sure base timing is dialed in at 5* BTDC.

no twice or more sparks during idle its at the wrong time and too many sparks

You recently replaced hte injectors. I would check to see if the wiring on the plugs are OK. That's a problem I had. If not. Go get a set of 2g injector plugs from the junk yard. Mind the pin orientation when wiring then in. and Solder solder solder. The 2g clips have a mechanical release. Instead of that pesky little bar.

Eclipse Freak said:

no twice or more sparks during idle its at the wrong time and too many sparks

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Huh, that's new.. But I would suspect a bad CAS or bad ECU. Have you checked or replaced the coil pack and plug wires?

If it starts one day and not the next maybe you should just drive it every other day.

Something just popped into my head. I might be over simplifying things but are you sure you have the firing order right? I tried to run my 1g on the 2g firing order, and it didn't like that very much. I think 1 and 4 are reversed or something to that effect.

no, I have the plugs hooked up for the 1g coil as it says on the coil itself and its the stock one

Pull the plugs and set them on the cylinder head.

Place them in order along the top of the head and slowly turn the CAS. They should fire in this order: 1 and 4 Then 2 and 3.

If that's right then you know the CAS is working and you know the order is correct. If that's not how they fire arrange them so they fire that way.

If it's still not running look into your injector pigtails. They might be damaged due to age. A lot of the time I see the wires have pulled out or frayed right at the connector.

Ok so plugs are firing and in the right order injector pig tails look fine so not sure might look at the fuel pump next

ok update didnt pull the pump but i dont think thats the issue i can hear it prime when i try and turn the car over it is working just dont know how well could it be not pumping enough because of the age or the crap fuel that was in the tank when i got the car i have changed the filter once should i again? I'm really just looking for ideas on what to check

Refresh me on where we're at right now.. Cranks but won't fire? You can check if fuel is making it to the cylinders by pulling the plugs, cranking it, and smelling for fuel. Or put a screwdriver to the injector body and to you ear, and crank the engine. You should be able to hear the injectors "ticking" open and closed.
EDIT: Also check your MAF wiring. Make sure you're getting supply and signal voltage to the sensor, and ohm check the signal wires from the MAF to the ECU.

Eclipse Freak said:

So had the car running fine but then today it seems to have lost its time and will not start have tried to adjust the cam angle sensor no luck, have check engine light with codes 13 12 25 swaped mas for 2g mas no luck switch back not sure where to go from here I need help please!

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I had a similar problem to you a while ago with the same error codes, if I remember correctly. In my case it turned out to be a bad ecu.

I would recommend getting another ecu to test it, or just get a known working used ecu, or send yours in to ecmlink to get tested/fixed.
Also, get a unhacked 1g maf and run that until you get the problem sorted, and install the 2g maf later when you can properly tune for the change.

Ok so ecu looks fine, have spark, fuel, correct timing, injectors are opening. Its cranks when I turn the key but no fire, kinda running out of things to check....

Ok, found the problem bad coil, not hot enough spark. Next thing is to get it to run smooth at all rpms. The car idle ok but does fluctuate and doesn't want to go over 2-3000 while driving. What are some tuning tricks or ways to smooth it out to be more reliable?

Eclipse Freak said:

Ok, found the problem bad coil, not hot enough spark. Next thing is to get it to run smooth at all rpms. The car idle ok but does fluctuate and doesn't want to go over 2-3000 while driving. What are some tuning tricks or ways to smooth it out to be more reliable?

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How does it rev in neutral? A friend had a leak between the MAF and turbo causing something similar to that.