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Head rebuilt questions

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NylenS

10+ Year Contributor
43
0
Jul 5, 2010
Saskatoon, SK_Canada
Hey guys I'm currently getting my head redone and am wondering what the best combination of cams, valves and springs would be. I already got HKS 272 cams, everything else is stock and I am running 20psi on my 16g. I'm planning on doing more upgrades next winter, turbo, tune, FMIC, fuel system and bottom end, but am only doing the head right now. Since there are so many options of valves and springs to go with I am wondering what would be the best to run with my cams. I'm going to keep stock valve diameter. I don't kno wether a dual or Beehive is spring is better.
Thanks
 
The best valve spring in my opinion is the gsc 5041 set I have been running these for a while now. here is why beehive is so much better.


GSC Power-Division Beehive springs feature some of the most impressive manufacturing techniques in the industry. Our beehive spring uses an ovate wire which utilizes advanced material heat treatment methods for superior load loss capabilities. What this means to you is our spring has the highest level of spring load retention while still maintaining good fatigue threw out the life of the spring. Only the best materials go into the GSC Power-Division Beehive valve spring. Each batch is scrutinized for tensile strength properties, ductility, inclusion content, and fatigue toughness.

The beehive valve spring shape has become the buzz lately. Some have enquired as to the benefits of a beehive spring vs the dual springs that are sold by others. While some might find that the beehive spring design is new it has been used commonly in many OE engines as well as in all of the NASCAR and F1 engines of today. Why? The beehive shape is more stable than standard single or dual cylindrical springs. The beehive design which incorporates an ovate wire is more than capable of the performance demands that were previously only matched by a Dual Springs. With the smaller and lighter retainer used on the beehive valve spring allow for higher RPM and more valve control. So beehive valve springs, with there lighter weight retainers allow for engine's to rev quicker and maintain a more stable valve motion than the traditional cylindrical springs of yesteryear.

Beehive Spring Benefits:•Rev faster
•Lighter components
•More durable design
•Less stress on valvetrain components
•Lower spring frequency for more precise valve control.
•More valve control equals more aggressive cam profiles
•All of these items help to return more power for you to enjoy!


The GSC 5041 Includes aBeehive valve spring set, and Grade 5 Titanium retainers You will use the OEM spring seat. This kit is capable of 11000+ RPMS, with as much as 12.1mm lift cams (net valve lift max due to seal to bottom retainer contact). This is a must have for anyone pushing the limits. If you have had problems with valve float or throwing rocker arms this is the spring set that will cure your problems for good..

5041 Beehive spring pressure:

EVO 4-9 head (Intake listed/ Exhaust -.025")
•1.55"=97 lbs

•.300" =183lbs
•.400"=216lbs

•.450"= 238lbs

•.500"= 250lbs
•.550"=285lbs

•Coil bind=0.620"




DSM / EVO 1-3 head (Intake listed / Exhaust -.030")
•1.56"=96 lbs

•.300" =180lbs
•.400"=212lbs

•.450"= 235lbs

•.500"= 246lbs
•.550"=280lbs

•Coil bind=0.618"

5041 Beehive Rev and Boost range (using an S3 profile camshaft set)•Max RPM: 10,500
•Max boost: 44psi
 
I will agree with Kelton on the beehives... But with the cams you have now the HKS 272 you do not need them. A set of BC1100 will be just fine for your set up and not break the bank.

But Manley singles will work too

Either set will work with the stock retainers also.

Now if you plan to swap to Kelford 272, GS3 or FP4 or any of the "Big" 272 cams then yes beehives are the way to go.

I like the GSC 5041 Kit also...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...omparison-stock-hks-bc1100.html#post152945194

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341287-how-test-valve-springs.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...2-evo-viii-stock-dsm-manley-brian-crower.html

Since you are boosting 20 PSI, stock cast iron guides will be fine, make sure if you run Stock valves they have the "6T" on them... Other replacement valves could be a 2 piece design.

If the valves you have are not "6T" then get a set of OE or go with the Engnbldr Stainless valves.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/420045-how-have-4g63-head-rebuilt.html
 
Ok what can the kiggly springs hold for RPM and boost? I'm going to go with a beehive spring, either the GSC 5041 or the kiggly. Now what would be my best valve choice to run with these? The BC stainless steel valves or a Manley or would another manufacturer be better to run with the HKS 272s and a beehive spring?
 
What is your HP goal?

The engnbldr valves I will put head to head any day of the week...
A real good valve at half the price of the ferrea.

I would reccomend the GSC 5041 over the kiggley, The GSC is a taller spring, and does not need the thick/custom spring seat like the kiggley.

I am building a 2g head right now for about the same set up you are... 16g w;HKS 272 I will install the BC1100 w/ stock retainers.... solid set up for a DD
 
Well I'm going for 600 AWHP but that's years down the road. Right now I want to do some head work to make some more power and increase reliability but build it so I can continue going bigger when I do the bottom end and turbo.
I'm going to run GCS springs but still am unsure on the valves. What is so good about the engnbldr valves, what valves do they compare to?
 
Engnbldr will compaire to Ferrea or the Manley valves

Well for 600hp I will say install bronze guides, I say this beacuse of the hextra head that is made at higher boost levels still has to be transfered from the valves stem to guide, the iron guides will wear faster
 
Should I put in new locks and seals while it's all apart or would stock ones be fine?
 
Yes new Viton blue ones, both sides for the seals... The valve vocks need inspected for wear and damage
 
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