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Buying a 1g engine

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Cool09

Probationary Member
20
0
Sep 13, 2012
Ottawa, ON_Canada
Hello DSMers, I've been lurking a while and have just registered.

I like the idea of a solid 1g engine in a sexy 2gb chassis. While shopping around for a good deal on a 1997-1998 Talon I came across a 1g engine for $200, from a guy who lives 5 minutes away from me.

This brings me to my questions: He doesn't know if it's from a turbo or naturally aspirated car. How can I tell just from looking at it? Also are there any other things I should check specifically before buying it? I know I won't really know the condition of the engine without tearing it down and taking a micrometer to it, but any simple tips would be helpful.

Thanks!

UPDATE:

I went and picked up the engine. As you can see it's quite rusty. What do you wisemen think? Nothing a good machine shop couldn't clean up? Also what is the blue dome on the flywheel and how do I remove it?

This is how I got it. Yes that is my cluttered garage.. it will be cleaned out this week to make room for this project.
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No rust under here... inside the head looks great. Everything is still oiled up.
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Not sure what this blue dome is, could anyone help a newbie out?
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Here it is right now... I've removed the cut off coolant hoses and the wiring harness. This shot lets you really appreciate the RUST.
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Last edited:
Is it a 6 or 7 bolt? No point in wasting the money for a 1g 7 bolt when you already have a 7 bolt in your car now.

It's a 6 bolt. I'm thinking of getting a clean 2g chassis for cheap and dropping in this 1g engine.

I'm just not sure what to look for in a visual inspection. Also does it matter if it's from a turbo or naturally aspirated car? I'll of course be running it with a turbo :rocks:
 
For $200 for a 6 bolt it dosnt matter if it is a turbo block or na block... Just get it.

If you can put a ratchet on the hbal bolt and spin it over.. get it.


The turbo blocks have a oil squriter under the pistons, NA do not

Also the turbo oil return is in the block IIRC.

If it is a NA, you will need to do a build any how.. NA pistons seem to fail with boost.
 
Yeah, $200 is a pretty good price for a complete 4G63 regardless just for parts. You could easily get that back parting it out.
 
Updated the OP with pictures.

What do you wisemen think of my purchase?

A feasible project? Next step would be to take it completely apart, take a mic to it and send it off to a machine shop.
 
Turbo oil return bolts to the oil pan. If you don't have the oil return holes on pan it's non turbo.
 
Seeing how.theres no coolant drain off.the coolant pipe to go to the turbo im going.to have to say its a non.turbo motor. 200 is still worth it you got.yourself a nice.valve cover if there's no cracks
 
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