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2G New brakes for the GSX (budget)

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PieEyedPiper

DSM Wiseman
5,580
65
Nov 13, 2004
North Bay Area, California
My brakes are squealing, sticking and rubbing. It's past that time. My gear has already seized up on me once about 6 years ago and rather than deal with all that rusty old junk I figured I'm better off just replacing the parts altogether.

I've been able to locate the following from a combination of MachV, eBay and RockAuto:
-2x front calipers oem replacement semi-loaded
-2x rear calipers oem replacement semi-loaded
-2x oem front rotors ($49)
-ebc redstuff front pads

The problem is now I'm spending a fortune on this. These items total up to roughly $480 shipped.

I still need rear pads (cheap is probably ideal for this), rear rotors, lube and brake fluid. Could be another 100 bucks.

This could easily skyrocket upwards of $600.00 and I don't think it's a very good idea to just drop huge cash on plain old replacement parts. Any suggestions?

EDIT: This thread has ran it's course. Unfortunately there is no "free-way" out and there aren't any other unbeknown to us , affordable brake upgrades besides the Cobra upgrade or the Outlander setup. But there's really no downside to that they're both great reasonably priced options. Outlander setup is the way to go. The parts have all arrived I just need to put them on!
 
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For sure. I wish I was able to use different pads and with that my cheap (go figure!) calipers had proper paint prep, but yes, I really enjoy these brakes.

The rotors I chose are just so darned beautiful.

I'm looking at doing the same upgrade. I just wanted to make sure that I could reuse my 99 GSX calipers and just mount them with the Outlander brackets. My calipers are already powder coated and match the rears so I'd like to reuse them if possible.

What dealer did you find the cheapest prices for the brackets (MR307282)?
 
I just called a few local dealers and they only have the outlander bracket at a store in PA and they want $100 per bracket = $200 for them. That seems like way too much. I've called a few junk yards but they only have the calipers as people have bought the brackets already. Any thoughts on where to hunt down the brackets?
 
I just called a few local dealers and they only have the outlander bracket at a store in PA and they want $100 per bracket = $200 for them. That seems like way too much. I've called a few junk yards but they only have the calipers as people have bought the brackets already. Any thoughts on where to hunt down the brackets?

Pretty much any vendor here on DSMtuners can get them for you. Try that.

Also, I was entirely wrong when I said that the NAPA brackets would end up costing the same anyways. But that still doesn't make them available. :(

EDIT: Another thing to consider is that a 99 gsx has some differences in the front than previous years. I'd search it up a bit and see if the outlander rotors are still bolt on.
 
Pretty much any vendor here on DSMtuners can get them for you. Try that.

Also, I was entirely wrong when I said that the NAPA brackets would end up costing the same anyways. But that still doesn't make them available. :(

EDIT: Another thing to consider is that a 99 gsx has some differences in the front than previous years. I'd search it up a bit and see if the outlander rotors are still bolt on.

Thanks for the heads up on the vendor and the 99. There's over 50 vendors on the vendor list. If you know which might be able to source the parts at a good price that would be really helpful. If not I can just start calling down the list.
 
I was at the dealer today picking up a new BISS screw as mine was causing a boost leak and was almost stripped. It was stuck of course but thankfully my friend told me the trick. Get it out as far as you can, then use the two-step (lower rev limiter combined with anti-lag setup in ECMlink) to build enough boost to blow it out. It worked! Back to the topic at hand...

While I was there I asked the parts manager to look up the 2011 Lancer Ralliart front brake caliper bracket to see what the part number was and how much it cost. He looked it up and said the part number is MR307282 and the cost was about $100 per bracket ($200 for the front set). I'm not looking to spend $200 on some brackets but it's good to know if it comes down to it they are the same part number as the 05/06 Outlander.
 
Hello all!
I have Lancer Evolution 1 that looks like a III and I live in Calgary, Alberta, Canada.

This brake upgrade has interested me ever since I heard about it since, during track days, my brakes just absolutely suffer. In our old roadcourse that's basically two straights joined together by a few turns on both ends, one can get by via ducting. While 230 to 140 kph stops overpowers the fronts with such huge amounts of heat, this can be shed on the next straight. But since I now want to try other roadcourses that have shorter straights and more on-off braking, I figured it's worth trying brakes with bigger thermal capacity, however slight.

However, I just noticed something: Doesn't anyone else see an issue with how the Outlander/Ralliart rotors are vented from outside the hub?

This means to me that there can be no ducting solutions possible, unless one were to run turbine style 80's DTM wheels.... but that's adding cost and complexity to a brake system whose original attraction to me is low cost!
 
Hello all!
I have Lancer Evolution 1 that looks like a III and I live in Calgary, Alberta, Canada.

This brake upgrade has interested me ever since I heard about it since, during track days, my brakes just absolutely suffer. In our old roadcourse that's basically two straights joined together by a few turns on both ends, one can get by via ducting. While 230 to 140 kph stops overpowers the fronts with such huge amounts of heat, this can be shed on the next straight. But since I now want to try other roadcourses that have shorter straights and more on-off braking, I figured it's worth trying brakes with bigger thermal capacity, however slight.

However, I just noticed something: Doesn't anyone else see an issue with how the Outlander/Ralliart rotors are vented from outside the hub?

This means to me that there can be no ducting solutions possible, unless one were to run turbine style 80's DTM wheels.... but that's adding cost and complexity to a brake system whose original attraction to me is low cost!

I just wanted to reinforce the "however slight" considering what you use the car for.

Also, can you provide a picture of this venting from outside of the hub? I'm not sure I understand. I purchased, what I feel are very high quality rotors. The venting seems appropriate to me. It's not like some 2-piece chinabay or partstore rotor with vents that don't even go through.

I guess I'd just like to understand better what you mean, maybe my rotors do"vent behind the hub" but at this point I don't even know what the repercussions would be.

EDIT: Are you taking about the .5" or so gap between the vents and the rotor hat?
 
The gap is not the issue, it's where it sucks air from.

Brake ducting is easiest when the rotor is vented from the inside the hub.
This way you just run your hose like this (not mine... stolen online):

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And then the air moves along like so:

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With or Without ducting, air would move along like this in a rotor that sucks air from inside the hub, where rotor rotation would centrifugally force air outside (like a turbocharger).



But what of the Outlander rotors which are designed to primarily suck air centrifugally from the outside the hubs instead of the inside ? Sure, there are some holes that direct air to the outside as well, should you decide to force air from inside the hub to the outside, but this sounds like a recipe for warped rotors since it would only blow out of those holes and make cooler those select parts of the rotor (those holes are fixed, remember, so a rotating rotor shouldn't matter).

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I guess this is all theoretical. It could be fine for all I know... but this thought experiment has me holding back this potentially great budget upgrade (won't have to touch rears so much, and won't have to upgrade Master Cylinder).



(Random info:
Although Evo is 4x114.3, it has the same rotor size and dual piston sliding as big front DSM brakes, and the rear 260x10mm solid rotors with integrated handbrake on the calipers. In short, it doesn't have as much headroom for retarding speeds the 4G63 is capable of...)
 
I'm onboard. Pictures work well on me.

After reading your post the biggest question on my mind is whether or not brake ducts effectively introduce cooler air to the vanes in the best possible scenario, which appears to be the rotor with an open back.
I'm no physicist but I could imagine that it's possible that at a certain point, due to the rotational speed of the vanes, you might not be able to inject cooler air/augment the airflow because of some super-scientific warp plasma bubble that forms, creating a buffer zone of high pressure air that cannot be permeated by the cooler air from the ducting.

Or something like that.

Maybe I should write to mythbusters.. or pick up a book.

I guess others questions would be, how effective is brake ducting in general? Do the rotors actually have vanes that are designed to both suck air into the rotor AND push it out, like you suggest? The only thing I'm not following you on is the warping of the rotor. Too much black magic for me on that one, but if you know otherwise I'd be all ears. :)
 
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Just some information on these brackets:

We sell the Outlander Brackets for $62.93 a piece.

Unfortunately, right now, there are only 3 left in the country.
 
I just got my brackets in from mitsu I only paid $48 each plus tax, i sent them off to a friend to powdercoat them to match my freshly rebuilt and powdercoated calipers.

I also ordered centric blanks and EBC green pads... also I cant find anywhere what pads to use, i thought i had read to use GSX pads but i cant seem to find it again is this correct? or do i need outlander pads?

Thanks
Adam
 
Now what I wanna know is, is this kit also a direct bolt on to 1g's? Are the 2g's a direct bolt on for 1g's? I over heat my rotors way too fast, so I'm looking for more stopping power with the new ducts im doing.
 
Now what I wanna know is, is this kit also a direct bolt on to 1g's? Are the 2g's a direct bolt on for 1g's? I over heat my rotors way too fast, so I'm looking for more stopping power with the new ducts im doing.

They are no different then bolting on the GSX big brakes, you just need the two piston calipers, brackets and outlander rotors
 
For right around $500, I got four slotted rotors, and hawk HPS Carbon brake pads (All 4 pairs) from ExtremePSI. Then i went to Autozone to replace each caliper and it ws about $25 per caliper (after core charge). So all brand new brake for under $600 and they work amazingly. Plus they stop a lot harder since the rotors are slotted. IMO, a good deal.
 
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