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Your most recent welding pics

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That looks like a very even manifold. I bet that'll be really nice. I want to do something similar to that myself, so I can sell off all my stuff and eventually stick a Holset under the hood. Did you weld it to pieces you cut off the stock manifold? What is that in?
 
turboglenn said:
checkthe breaker AMP rating, it's probably only like a 15-20 amp service, you can replace it with one easily from the hardware store rated at 30 amps (think that's 110volt max) or if it's a 220 welder you'll need to go buy a 50 amp breaker which is what stoves run so they are easy to find about 15 bucks and changing them is easy, just cut the main breaker off (top of box) use flashlight to replace the one while there no power, put cover back on, turn main back on and go, :D I have had to run services in every house i've lived in over the last 14 years (3 of them) to ensure i can weld with out issue and my compressoir wont kick them off too

breakers are 15-25 bucks tops depending on the box you have at home...

If you have a variable boltage welder (like the inverter millers like i've got) that take 110/220 or 480 3 phase, then you can really only go to 150amps on 110, but need that 30 amp breaker and it will still pop on extended use,, best bet is even add a breaker for YOUR own use at home, just get some cheap ROMEX (what's ran inside walls) and run it through wall, cieling what ever to where you need it and mount a box for your plug in
Click to expand...

I use a 30amp breaker. The welder is 110 but has a setting for 220. I usually just run it off of the 220 plug that is connected to the 30 amp breaker for our compressor. Its a rare thing for it to trip the breaker, but it does happen.

No matter what settings I seem to use it still spatters. I cleaned up the frame rails where the seat bolts to in the car and tried to weld up a small crack, it just spatters everywhere and leaves a very small puddle.
 
Nope, not bad at all for first shot TIG. Looks like you were a little low on heat. Moves look slower. I can totally understand that on a first run though. Keep it up, and give it "the beans" as they say on Top Gear.
 
H@xtGSX said:
Nope, not bad at all for first shot TIG. Looks like you were a little low on heat. Moves look slower. I can totally understand that on a first run though. Keep it up, and give it "the beans" as they say on Top Gear.
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Yea I started off very low and slow on the first couple to the left I wanted to make sure I had the move then dip filler down without touching the tungsten. The last baby one I ramped the heat up a bit because it did seem to take a bit to form a puddle so I figured it needed more juice and it "felt" better, while welding it just felt like it was going right LOL, then I popped the breaker at work, so I am going to check into finding a circuit with less stuff on it then the one I was using.
 
That's what it looks like. My best advice is watch the puddle. It should form quickly, but not so quick you can't fill it before it gets wider than your intended weld depth and bead. Say you have 1/4" plate and you're running a 1/8" weld. You should be able to immediately form that puddle and push it without having to wait, but also not puddling out so fast you are chasing it. Just get it hot enough that it punches in enough to fuse weld it first, then use the filler so the weld is flat or filleted properly.
Something an old welder made me do on a TIG that helped me a lot was that he made me weld without filler first. That made me watch and learn how and when to fill better than anything else did.
 
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Got a little sloppy towards the end of the v band since it started falling
 
Imback said:
Got a little sloppy towards the end of the v band since it started falling
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Man that exhaust is very sexy looking. Please shoot me some tips as I am in the middle of fabbing mine up and its my first so I can use as much help as possible :thumb:
 
Yes tips on the vband. How do you weld it to where it won't warp? I've done it once and jumped around a lot and it warped about 1/16th of an inch. Wondering if there is a way to get it perfectly flat.
 
Gamble97 said:
Yes tips on the vband. How do you weld it to where it won't warp? I've done it once and jumped around a lot and it warped about 1/16th of an inch. Wondering if there is a way to get it perfectly flat.
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Best thing to do is have both flanges together and the clamp tightened down when welding, also dont remove the clamp until the part is completely cool. it works great as I personally have done this and was told to do this by Jim @ JMF.
 
my first time with stainless 304 intercooler pipes, 316 intake pipe..

got to love how easy it is to polish this stuff...

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Thanks for posting the underhood pics of your Eterna! It looks like a mix of a 2G DSM and a Galant GVR4. Is it a 2nd Gen Galant?
 
pneumo said:
Thanks for posting the underhood pics of your Eterna! It looks like a mix of a 2G DSM and a Galant GVR4. Is it a 2nd Gen Galant?
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ohh the above picture is one of my customers cars i built, its actually a 90 GVR4

this one is mine... Eterna ZR4 and Galant VR4 are exatly the same E38/39A, although the Eterna is a Hatch... (my Eterna is slightly tweaked)

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JayRome said:
ohh the above picture is one of my customers cars i built, its actually a 90 GVR4

this one is mine... Eterna ZR4 and Galant VR4 are exatly the same E38/39A, although the Eterna is a Hatch... (my Eterna is slightly tweaked)

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Evo 4+ motor in a old chassis!? :applause:
 
far left one is mild steel filler.. the other two are stainless filler.. i dont have any aluminum pics.. ill have to get some
 

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Gtr downpipes

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Imback said:
Gtr downpipes

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Ok I'll be the first to ask... Why so many welded in straight sections vs one longer one on the left pipe?
 
^ Throwing out a wild guess, but maybe to use up some old stock/that's all he had left?
 
T is for TURBO said:
Check out your local tech school. They most likely have a welding course you can take. If you want to do it as a career, do the full course and get certified. It will help you when looking for a job.

As far as how much you will make, that depends on the type of welding you plan on doing. Were I work, our welders start out at ~$20.00 per hour. They almost all do heavy plate welding, which is a skill that is hard to come by these days. We primarily only work with A36 mild steel, and AR400.

EDIT: Sorry, I just realized I responded to an old question.:banghead:
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May be an old question but the info is still appreciated. I am looking into schools around chicago and possibly a cert class when I'm ready. Thanks again
 
Heres the only pic i was able to get of my 6010 root pass on a 1/2" thick pipe with 7"ID. Looked like that prettty much all the way around. Multi passes were run with 7018 and capped off with tig.
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