I would also look into a Timing belt and waterpump
I dont personally know anyone running that setup, but i can definitely vouch for DSMG.

yeah im planning on a gates or greddy timing belt and all new oem timing components, good call though. this is gonna be a complete go through except for the head its gonna stay stock for a while till i recover from this bottom end build . also gonna eliminate the balance shafts.

rpmmachine.com is where i got the best deal for my bottom end and then cimotorsports.net is where i got the best deal on my top end parts. horsepowerfreaks.com are pretty good also. what is your power goal and do you have a budget? that will make a big difference on where you want to go for your build.

Pay someone else to do it


Like these guys
https://www.jacksonautomachine.com/

the only thing someone else is touching is my machine work, no one does my work for me, i love doing this, i have help from friends thats built some high hp dsms, but ive gotta learn sometime, thanks jayson427 for the sites ill check em out.

i have heard good things about eagle connecting rods and wiesco pistons.. maybe get them a look..

ill keep that in mind. i do have a budget but i will save a little to buy the best stuff if i need too. just looking for the best for the buck.

I just built my block with wiseco pistons and eagle rods connected to an eagle crank. Block was hot tanked and bored .20 over. Did the balance shaft delete as well.

Yeehaw

sounds like u had the fun im getting ready to have

91blackcherrytsi said:

sounds like u had the fun im getting ready to have

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Same here man. I just got my motor pulled from my 96' Talon TSi AWD now deciding what internals and other various parts I want to go with. Plus trying to decide what I want to delete from my engine bay without getting a 'CEL'. I hate the clutter it has.

Good luck with your build. I think I'm probably going to go with the eagle connecting rods and wiesco pistons.

thanks man! the wisecos and eagles are what ive been hearing alot about so i just might go in that direction.

i dont know if i should keep my clunky abs or not seems like its crazy in the way of everything

Wisecos and eagles on a stock crank. Cant got wrong with that. I love mine theyve done just fine.

don't order from DSM Graveyard cause It took them over 5 months for my stuff to come in!!!! If you do cross your finger and hope for the best.

thanks for that heads up cianfar. thats the first negative ive heard from them but that dont mean it doesnt happen.

Bo0sTdTsI said:

Wisecos and eagles on a stock crank. Cant got wrong with that. I love mine theyve done just fine.

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would anyone recommend polishing the crank while ive got it out. my machinist said something about but i didnt know if its worth it. even thought this motor will be on stock head, ecu and boost for a while i want it to be as modable as possible in the future when the parts start flying.

Also check this page out will help you find lots of stuff. as well as reputable vendors. read reviews and research for different combos to see if anyone else has had success with a similar build(not just in this case). anyway goodluck with the build.

DSM Vendors - Directory

Planning a rebuild with wiseco pistons and eagle rods myself. One question I do have is going Turbo on a 420 a, should I put in a forged crank as well? Also what are some good solid head parts? I've read where people are using pt cruiser rockers, are they good for high boost Turbo? Sorry if I'm screwing up the thread, was reading and these questions came to mind.

OutKastGSX said:

Also check this page out will help you find lots of stuff. as well as reputable vendors. read reviews and research for different combos to see if anyone else has had success with a similar build(not just in this case). anyway goodluck with the build.

DSM Vendors - Directory

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thanks man thats gonna help out a ton.

as far as turboing the 420a i personally dont know nor care to know anything about those motors.

ive been searching on the wiseco and eagle combos and im seeing some different comp ratios which should i go? im planning on going .20 over btw

91blackcherrytsi said:

the only thing someone else is touching is my machine work, no one does my work for me, i love doing this, i have help from friends thats built some high hp dsms, but ive gotta learn sometime, thanks jayson427 for the sites ill check em out.

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BECAUSE DIY NO-REAL KNOWLEDGE DSMers !!!! If you have friends who've build high hp DSMs, what the hell are you doing asking newbie questions ??? Shouldnt your "friends that builts some high hp DSMs" be able to guide you... Watch out for the DIY engine rebuild if you don't know what really entails a high hp engine rebuild... Dont come crying wolf with an engine failure disaster after 10k miles... my suggestion as a ASE certified automotive technician with over 10years fixing and modifying Mercedes Benz and high performance cars, get a professional engine builder to build the engine atleast and stay with the bolt-on stuff. Don't try and save a few $$$ by doing the engine rebuild yourself if you dont have the knowledge and experience. You going to end up spending more $$$ at due time... Be wise !!!! I keep repeating my words over and over again, but most ppl won't listen, yet few months later another new thread of engine failure at DSMtuners appears... Take advice from the ppl who fix and build engines for a living...

Another tip, make sure the machine shop has enough experience with high performance engines, since most machine shop are not up to date with the latest technology machines and machining a regular engine vs a high performance engine aint the same. Regular engines will get away with old school machines and machining process, but high performance engines machining specs and tolerances are crucial and are key to withstanding high hp figures, newer technolgy machines are the way to go when machining a high performance engine.

BTW, you where the one who asked for tips, so don't get mad or hate my advice. I just took 5 minutes of my time to give you the best possible advice coming from a guy whos carrer is fixing Mercedes Benz and modifying performance cars, was the master mechanic of a sportsbike road racing team, co-owned and raced a Toyota Starlet 13B @ low 9s ET back @ 04, owned and raced the 1st Mitsubishi Mirage 1.8L SOHC to run 12s with drag radials back @ 04, and currently building a RWD 2G Eclipse, besides wrenching a few customers street/track cars to run 10s/11s...

I honestly have never heard of anyone with that set up, i'd recommend Manley Turbo Tuff Rods and Wiseco Pistons i have no experience with it but my friend has and he loves it.

gabytech said:

BECAUSE DIY NO-REAL KNOWLEDGE DSMers !!!! If you have friends who've build high hp DSMs, what the hell are you doing asking newbie questions ??? Shouldnt your "friends that builts some high hp DSMs" be able to guide you... Watch out for the DIY engine rebuild if you don't know what really entails a high hp engine rebuild... Dont come crying wolf with an engine failure disaster after 10k miles... my suggestion as a ASE certified automotive technician with over 10years fixing and modifying Mercedes Benz and high performance cars, get a professional engine builder to build the engine atleast and stay with the bolt-on stuff. Don't try and save a few $$$ by doing the engine rebuild yourself if you dont have the knowledge and experience. You going to end up spending more $$$ at due time... Be wise !!!! I keep repeating my words over and over again, but most ppl won't listen, yet few months later another new thread of engine failure at DSMtuners appears... Take advice from the ppl who fix and build engines for a living...

Another tip, make sure the machine shop has enough experience with high performance engines, since most machine shop are not up to date with the latest technology machines and machining a regular engine vs a high performance engine aint the same. Regular engines will get away with old school machines and machining process, but high performance engines machining specs and tolerances are crucial and are key to withstanding high hp figures, newer technolgy machines are the way to go when machining a high performance engine.

BTW, you where the one who asked for tips, so don't get mad or hate my advice. I just took 5 minutes of my time to give you the best possible advice coming from a guy whos carrer is fixing Mercedes Benz and modifying performance cars, was the master mechanic of a sportsbike road racing team, co-owned and raced a Toyota Starlet 13B @ low 9s ET back @ 04, owned and raced the 1st Mitsubishi Mirage 1.8L SOHC to run 12s with drag radials back @ 04, and currently building a RWD 2G Eclipse, besides wrenching a few customers street/track cars to run 10s/11s...

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Listen man I believe u took me the wrong way I wasn't mad at all. I will take everything u said inand use it and I appreciate ## time on it. Considering how explanatory ## first comment was u kinda sounded like a smartass to be honest.

And as far as why am I asking this when I have a few dsm vets as freinds........ would u rather ask 2 peoples opinion or thousands? Makes more sense to me. And again thank you for your time. And I don't plan on shortcutting anything the rotating assembly will be balanced and plasti-gauaged.

I would recommend measuring clearances with a micrometer not plasti gauge... That is all.

I might just get my machinist to do that too then he said he could but I've been told by some to plastigauge and some say to meter them what's the pros and cons of each?

Plastigauge you're relying on the supposed/assumed crush properties of a strip of plastic. You also don't get to-the-thousandths measuring ability, you have to guess in between 0.002 and 0.001, for instance, if the strip is crushed wider than one and thinner than the other. It's an old school method of testing clearances back when things could be loose.

Micrometer, you're assuming on the manufacturer's ability to create a sound mechanical instrument and perform quality assurance to ensure that it's reading properly.

Both have the ability to be damaged or become "uncalibrated" over time and use. Of course, plastigauge is a one-time thing, and you have to be very careful that it wasn't already predeformed before you even use it.

It's just that the latter you would think occurs less, considering a strip of plastigauge costs about $7 and covers all sizes of journals, whereas a quality micrometer in 3-4" can run you hundreds, and you'll need 1-2", 2-3", and 3-4", really.

Nowadays, clearances need to be much more tightly controlled as we're producing more specific horsepower per liter, with cylinder pressures much higher than before.

One definite extra pro for using a micrometer is you don't have to spend even a second cleaning the residue off your crank journals or bearings!

Arias Pistons/ Eagle Or Manley Rods Great Combo i would do 8:5:1 or 9:1 For Piston Compression