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Oil leak after BSE install **VIDEO**

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fourgsixthree33

10+ Year Contributor
1,244
45
Oct 25, 2010
Athens, Pennsylvania
Hey guys. Couple weeks ago I spun my rear balance shaft bearing. So this week I pulled the motor. Below is a list of parts I installed:

BSE Kit from Extreme PSI.
Front Case Gasket set from Extreme PSI
1G rebuilt head
1G intake manifold
1G TB

Followed the step by step BSE kit instructions right off of VFAQ (Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install). Everything went well and didn't have any issues with the BSE install.

Replaced all the seals and gaskets on the front case. Yesterday I got the engine back in the car and started it up. There is a good size leak coming from under the front case. Pulled the timing cover off to get a better look, cleaned everything up, still can't seem to find the leak.

The auto tensioner and tensioner arm are wet. And pretty much everything under that. Everything on the left side of the front case is dry. The leak is coming from somewhere in the middle to the rear side of the front case.

I have the timing belt back off right now. Going through everything I can. What are some things I can check for leaks?


BSE kit and front case gaskets.
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Front case.
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Engine shots.
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Video.
Faline- DSM TSi Front case leak after BSE install - YouTube
 
its probably coming from the plug you installed in place of the rear balance shaft. It looks like you got the freezeplug kit and your supposed to jbweld or rtv that plug in place.
 
its probably coming from the plug you installed in place of the rear balance shaft. It looks like you got the freezeplug kit and your supposed to jbweld or rtv that plug in place.

Correct. I used a 2 part epoxy on mine.
 
They said rear shaft but I think they are talking about the front shaft. That plug that I used is dry. Everything is dry near the front balance shaft location. I also used JB Weld on this plug. My leak is coming from the center of the front case near the top.
 
Had the same issue after doing the bse. My leak came from the crank shaft seal from same kit. I took the timing cover off and started the car, reved it and you would see oil spraying from under the crank bolt.
 
Took the timing cover off and a few other things and started the car. I immediately seen a leak out of that "crown" plug.

So I spun it off with a flathead and hammer. Cleaned it up and added some JB Weld. Waiting for it to dry now. Before, all I had used was a little bit of silicone.
 
Took the timing cover off and a few other things and started the car. I immediately seen a leak out of that "crown" plug.

So I spun it off with a flathead and hammer. Cleaned it up and added some JB Weld. Waiting for it to dry now. Before, all I had used was a little bit of silicone.

Why would you use rtv or jb weld in that. That is an awful idea. There is an o ring that goes in the groove that will seal it perfectly fine. That o ring should of came with your kit. The jb weld likely won't seal the oil in there at all. I would pull it back apart, clean all the jb weld off and install the correct o ring than tighten it back down.
 
Why would you use rtv or jb weld in that. That is an awful idea. There is an o ring that goes in the groove that will seal it perfectly fine. That o ring should of came with your kit. The jb weld likely won't seal the oil in there at all. I would pull it back apart, clean all the jb weld off and install the correct o ring than tighten it back down.

I originally used RTV on that because both the VFAQ and the DSM Graveyard tech video both said to.
 
I used JB weld and a plug on my front case about 6 years ago and it has held up well. I have done several BSE set-ups using JB weld and it works great. It is a great inexpensive way to complete a BSE.
 
I used JB weld and a plug on my front case about 6 years ago and it has held up well. I have done several BSE set-ups using JB weld and it works great. It is a great inexpensive way to complete a BSE.

That's cool, you are probably talking about the freeze plug that blocks off the hole for the front balance shaft and no the castle plug on the rear of the engine. There is ABSOLUTELY no reason to use jb weld or rtv on the castle plug, the oem style o ring is the only thing that should be used.
 
Why are you even removing the castle plug. I didnt have to remove mine when doing my BSE.

Some people don't split the oil pump apart and just pull the plug to remove the bolt for the balance shaft. The service manual shows to pull the plug. You can do it either way.
 
Why are you even removing the castle plug. I didnt have to remove mine when doing my BSE.

Well see the o-ring gets old and just starts to leak. Especially with the higher oil pressure from the bse.(or at least mine did) Now since your doing a bse, you have to replace the front case gasket.(if you pull the front case)Why not just replace it?
 
Some people don't split the oil pump apart and just pull the plug to remove the bolt for the balance shaft. The service manual shows to pull the plug. You can do it either way.

Thats just plain laziness and stupidity. Why not tear apart the pump so you can pack it with assembly lube or vaseline to prime the pump. People amaze me sometimes. If you do stuff the right way you wont have problems.
 
Thats just plain laziness and stupidity. Why not tear apart the pump so you can pack it with assembly lube or vaseline to prime the pump. People amaze me sometimes. If you do stuff the right way you wont have problems.

It's not right or wrong to do it either way. You have your opinion, the engineer's that designed these cars have theirs. You can do it either way. That is the only reason that the castle plug is there is so that you can un bolt the shaft from the gear with out taking the pump apart.
 
It's not right or wrong to do it either way. You have your opinion, the engineer's that designed these cars have theirs. You can do it either way. That is the only reason that the castle plug is there is so that you can un bolt the shaft from the gear with out taking the pump apart.

Im assuming they designed it that way with the front case still bolted to the car, or with the intent that you would do it with the motor in the car. Theres no excuse not to take the pump apart if the motor is out of the car, if its a matter of ruining the pump from dry starting or starting with something lubricating the gears, id choose the latter.
 
Im assuming they designed it that way with the front case still bolted to the car, or with the intent that you would do it with the motor in the car. Theres no excuse not to take the pump apart if the motor is out of the car, if its a matter of ruining the pump from dry starting or starting with something lubricating the gears, id choose the latter.

Do you take the pump off and pack it full of vaseline every time you change the oil? If the bse stubby shaft is lubed up when you install if and you didn't spray any cleaner thru the pump than it will still be lubricated. You can also pour oil in the oil pickup before you put the pan back on. As i said either way will work, it isn't half assing it to so it either way. Regardless you should pull the castle plug out and replace the o ring when you have the oil pump apart anyway.
 
No, but i do fill the oil filter up before putting it on so it builds pressure faster. Like you said to each their own, i'd rather be safe than sorry, especially if the car is my DD.
 
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