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Help: Multiple fuel leaks

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95tclipser

10+ Year Contributor
40
0
Nov 19, 2008
VALRICO, Florida
Ok, I installed new fuel feed from oem filter to fuel rail with Extreme PSI's 6AN kit, also, Installed new Afpr with 6AN fittings. I am seeing multiple fuel leaks, not sure if I need to thighten the "AN" fittings some more because I don't want to over thighten them. What am I doing wrong?

(1) Fuel is leaking at the connection to the oem filter.

(2) fuel is leaking from the fpr's fuel pressure gauge (have teftlon tape on it).

(3) Fuel is leaking from the 90 degree AN fitting(right where the nut swivels/turns).

Thanks
 
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Dang that many fuel leaks doesn't sound fun at all. The -6an fittings should seal on there 30 degree taper. Do the instructions say anything about it? I would probably contact FP and tell them and ask if they have an install tips to avoid leaks, I am sure they will tell you exactly what to do. The leak at the filter may need crush washers to seal.
 
No, no instructions at all! Maybe i'll have to contact vendor like you said. Thanks
 
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For the first leak, did you use the crush washer on the fitting that screws into the filter. For the second leak you need to use the yellow teflon that is compatible with fuel and get it tighter than what you currently have it. For the 3rd leak you need to tighten the fitting tighter.
 
Ok, I installed new fuel feed from oem filter to fuel rail with fp's 6AN kit, also, Installed new Afpr with 6AN fittings. I am seeing multiple fuel leaks, not sure if I need to thighten the "AN" fittings some more because I don't want to over thighten them. What am I doing wrong?

(1) Fuel is leaking at the connection to the oem filter.

(2) fuel is leaking from the fpr's fuel pressure gauge (have teftlon tape on it).

(3) Fuel is leaking from the 90 degree AN fitting(right where the nut swivels/turns).

Thanks

Pictures would help a lot, they are after all worth a thousand words, also I didnt know that FP (forced performance) sold these kits. Is that the vendor you got it from?

Is the filter leaking from the top or bottom, bottom should be the stock hard like with a flare end. It should not leak. The top is a metric fitting, but since you converted to AN you need a crush washer to seal metric threads, they are not tapered.
Notice the crush washer (copper circular thing)
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It will "crush" when you tighten it, creating a seal for your fuel filter.

Teflon tape should not be used with Fuel, get some proper thread sealant for your application

Is it a 90 degree fitting or a 90 degree hose end?

Its known that cheap AN fittings leak: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/432929-summit-fitting-90-a.html

Dang that many fuel leaks doesn't sound fun at all. The -6an fittings should seal on there 30 degree taper. Do the instructions say anything about it? I would probably contact FP and tell them and ask if they have an install tips to avoid leaks, I am sure they will tell you exactly what to do. The leak at the filter may need crush washers to seal.

its a 37 degree flare
 
There's no such thing as thread sealant. Teflon tape is not used to seal, it's used to lubricate tapered threads, so it should be safe with gasoline because it shouldn't be a seal in the first place! There shouldn't be a need for anything like that in this instance. All threads are parallel in his case, and the threads are not used to seal. He has 1 seal using a crush washer and 2 seals using a flare. It could just be cheap fittings or incorrect installation of the fittings onto the hose.
 
this is the thread sealant I have been using on all my tappered fittings:
http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._Permatex_High_Performance_Thread_Sealant.htm

I mean they could be wrong calling it thread sealant, but that is what people know it by.

OEM specified. Formulated specifically for metal, tapered pipe thread fittings, it replaces thread seal tape and pipe dopes. Cures rapidly to withstand 10,000 PSI. Prevents galling and protects mated threaded areas from rust and corrosion. Contains PTFE.

Tappered thread fitting, such as the gauge that has a 1/8 npt thread.
 
I missed the gauge mention, but if it's leaking it's not the fault of the teflon tape, it's just simply not tight enough. Don't be scared to crank the shit out of tapered threads. You don't even need to use teflon tape or "thread sealant." It just makes deforming the threads harder. "Thread sealant" is a misnomer.
 
It's used to seal threads for people who like to rig stuff or are too afraid to tighten the fitting. Tapered threads are meant to not be reused and to deform into each other and fill in their own gaps when tightened correctly.
 
There's no such thing as thread sealant.

There are thread sealers, and they are made to used for other things than just tapered bolts. There are some auto manufacturers that require thread sealer on the head bolts because they protrude into the water passage.

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I've seen plenty of instances where they call a thread locker "thread sealant." That picture you attached is just thread locker and the threads will deform themselves to seal despite not being tapered. Not letting up on this one.
 
I've seen plenty of instances where they call a thread locker "thread sealant." That picture you attached is just thread locker and the threads will deform themselves to seal despite not being tapered. Not letting up on this one.

That is definitely not thread locker. That is not a taper fit bolt the threads will not deform to seal. If you have installed a small block Chevy head bolt without thread sealer you will know this from experience. Every single head bolt will leak coolant thru the threads and out the bolts. They are coarse thread bolts so coolant easily leaks thru them.
 
That little bit of "sealant" in that picture won't do shit to seal if these threads you speak of are so coarse and sloppy that they will piss liquid. The picture you've shown is thread locker. Threads don't need to be tapered to deform.
 
That little bit of "sealant" in that picture won't do shit to seal if these threads you speak of are so coarse and sloppy that they will piss liquid. The picture you've shown is thread locker. Threads don't need to be tapered to deform.

Go out, work on something that requires thread sealant on the head bolt holes and report back. Hell do a google search for yourself. If you install the bolts without sealant they will leak coolant every time. You obviously haven't worked on anything that has head bolts that protrude thru to the cooling passage so i wouldn't expect you to know.

Here is this better for you. Teflon sealant on a set of sbc head bolts
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Here is a set of small block ford head bolts. Why are only some of them coated and some not, because not all the holes go into the cooling passages.
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correction : I bought all fitting & hoses from MAP & Extreme PSI. The filter is leaking at the neck. The fitting is a 90 degree AN fitting. Thanks
 
1) On tapered pipe threads, tape and dope actually seal small spaces between threads. Use tape or dope - note that Allison says using tape on some fittings into their transmissions will split the case, so be careful.

2) On banjo fittings (look kind of like a banjo looking into the big hole), the copper (aluminum, etc) crush washer is crushed and forms a seal between the flat surfaces. Use a new washer, unless you know how to resurface and anneal your old one.

3) On compression fittings, you have a tapered metal-to-metal seal. No tape, no dope, no crush washer. Different items have different specs, but on initial assembly, you go hand tight, plus some number of turns after that (1.25 on larger lines, 0.75 on smaller (<3/16-ish) lines). On re-assembly, you turn it less - hand tight plus 0.50 to 0.75 turns. If you do enough of these (like, say, for a big exhaust gas analyzer...), you get a thickness gauge that you put between the parts - you are supposed to not-quite fit the gauge when it is initially assembled correctly. For example, see: http://www.arielcorp.com/ext_data/vendor_literature/reciprocating/Swagelok-Fitting-Assy.pdf

4) On face o-ring seals, tighten to spec, must be tight to seal.

5) On in-line o-ring seals, tighten to spec, but it just has to stay in place.

FYI
 
If your looking for a different idea than THREAD TAPE.. Could your fuel system be pumping too much pressure and is causing/creating these leaks?

No. The fuel pump physically can not make enough pressure to push fuel thru the fittings if everything is installed properly.
 
I would like to thank everyone for their input, very helpful. I have resolved all but one ot he leaks, still leaking at the guage after thightening it down pretty good. Maybe I need to put the tread sealant on it. Thanks again.
 
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