windscreenframe painted to resemble a real glas windscreeen

Great work man! Glad to see you haven't given up yet. Thanks for sharing.

volcomsnow245 said:

Great work man! Glad to see you haven't given up yet. Thanks for sharing.

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Thank you so much, it feels a little like i´m at the beginning of the end of this build. probably teststarting within a few weeks:

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My newest aby; 1200gs trailer.


todays tip: newer cut stainles steel without armprotection....


3" -> 4" siliconeaapter


Old vs: newthrottlebody: 90mm BILLET

highpreassure raiatorcap


HX 60 anyone thats a 5" gokartrim on top.


how many turbo do you see...

attaching "some" parts today...

water radiator:
aircooled intercooler
oil radiator
chargecooler
small watercooler from an motorcycle for the chargecooler

A lot of hoses, intercoolerpipes & fittings...





26cm between camgears & the waterradiator


alu-pipes...


Silicon - al dudes like it right ? ?


The chargecooler found a good place after the intercooler
& just before the throttlebody: Will though need a lot of medefications
to the fittings

This high the turbocharger sits in the enginebay, i will lower it by 4cm
in order to try and make it clear the stock hood (i dont want to modify it)


3" pipe from I/C to the 90mm throttlebody, 15cm before the throttlebody, the pipe will be 4".


Enginebay:


14cm 4" pipe fitted onto the plenumchamber:


Also took the decision to wait with the chargecooler untril the engine is fully working.

Why go from 3 to 4, seem you would loose velocity.

arrowhead said:

Why go from 3 to 4, seem you would loose velocity.

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Its only the last 15cm (6") also because the throttlebody is 90mm, (3,7")
This is just temporary since the chargecooler will be fitted later on, &
the pipe coming out of it will be 4" all the way up to the throttlebody !

What is that throttlebody out of?

arrowhead said:

What is that throttlebody out of?

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Chinamade no-name roughly 160 us dollars.

frontview of engine, here you can se the new wateroutlet in the head just
below/between the camgears, as you can see the cambelt is not perfectly
straightened here, but when straightened the belt will reside just 4mm
from the outletpipe


This will NOT work with the coolanthose/siloconehose im using since its 3mm thick.


So i will need to redesign the wateroutletpipe a litte, by cutting it shorter +
cutting it at an 45degree angle & weldning a short bit od pipe onto the existing one


This will make the pipe/hose stay some 12-13mm away from the cambelt = ok i think:

Made myself an adaptorplate for the stock EVO tps, onto the new 90mm throttlebody


fitting for the throttlecable


fun pix

a lot of boost will sometimes blow gaskets, so i had my friend Jimmie macjine an O-ring track into the throttlebody instead,

KHRacing said:

a lot of boost will sometimes blow gaskets, so i had my friend Jimmie macjine an O-ring track into the throttlebody instead,

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the O-ringed throttle looks nice!!!

Found an old picture from winter -08

Update:

Radiatorfitting !

4st rubbermounts with M6/m8 endings

Measured where i wanted the radiator placed.



The fasteners: 45 degree for the lower ones


straight for the upper ones.


All done, just remove and take it to my friend pelle´s house for welding!


Today the radiator has gotten its electric fan, off an VOLVO 850.



The radiator was just too high so i ecided to cut 5 cells of the bottom.


Enter the anglegrinder


Cut:


The fanshroud was adjusted to fit the Chevrolet radiator:


All done + washed & cleaned:


Tomorrow i will have all the fitting welded.

fitted the front diffusor today while waiting for my welderfriend Pelle

frontspoiler laid on top of the diffusor, which is an 12mm thick
water resistant plywood plate.


measuring since this plate was cut to fit an Mazda RX7, it will have an "overhang" of 80mm.
::

Stainless SPARCO fittings:


All done:



Now i need to cut the plates rear part and make a serious but easy
fitting under the car/engine.

Time to work with fibreglas which i hate since i´m allergic to it:

The front splitter needed some serious fittings to be able to hold it in place & it will only hang onto the frontspoiler.


Epoxy + hardener + fibreglas:


poured the epoxy in two plastic cups (double) then went to get a snack ::


returned to this:


what to do but start over

The 5" hole for the former dragpipe was covered :


8 layers of fibreglas on the lower sides ´the front will be strong enough i think.. but only time will tell:

reinforced the fittings a bit more, now 9 layers of fibreglas:


tested to se where i might need to cut a bit more on the splitter.


need to make a hole for the oilpan/oilplug, oilpan is 12cm fron the ground, the splitter will be 15cm


The front fenders are held by 3 bolts on the topside. the front one is its stock place, the middle one is 1cm further out, & the rear one is 2cm out:



This is what it looks like with the front controlarms widened 35mm with
ET 38 7,5"x17:

A total of 24 17" tires.. all with atleast 5mm on them.


small hole for the steeringracks lowest point, big hole for oilsump:


In its place !


Pelle the welderman welds my radiator:


All done:



Stock wateroutlet has been welded shut!


2.nd version of the new wateroutlet done: the pipe was straight
out before, not its 45degree sideways & tilted a little down.


Also decided to use the leftovers from the radiator as the new 2:nd oilcooler,
with the long way the oil needs to travel within the cooler it will most probably
lower the oiltemp a lot more than in a smaller but "taller" cooler:

Got an sudden urge to change colour on all my wheels today

Built 2 "hangers" for the rear end of the frontsplitter to hang on to







Head hotwaterwashed (dont know the name of this dishwasher
look-a-like machine



Frontsplitter is done & tested.

Brakebooster fitted together with the pedal-set:


Just enough/perfect groundclearance.......

Arches beeing fitted:

Measure,measure and a bit more measuring: Then using any tejp to hold them in place: (my front fenders were already raised/cut 2cm some years back)


drill 3mm holes, and use 4mm wodden screws to hold in place temporary:


Bet you thought this was it right ? ?


But its not.......

Because now the arches will be taken off, & will cut the fenders a bit more. so the lowest point will be an additional 2-3cm upp.

painted a line: 2cm below the holes:


cutting:


Almost done:


So, fenders probably 4,5cm higher than stock now:


These plastic arches hav a similar "angle that folds under the arch like on any stock car., here you see how i have cut this angle off, so that i really can get the tires lowered&further out, if this hadn´t been done, moving the tires out would not have been possible:
Also here are my XYZ Drift-Specs Coilover maxlowered:


maximum lowered, oilpan is 4,5cm above ground:


left turn:


right turn:


All for today: 8)

Awesome build.

A+++ Build man!! I'm loving it. Just one thing I was wondering though, what did you use for your front hubs to not have a CV axle there?

92awdgsx said:

Awesome build.

Click to expand...

Thank you kindly !

DJ Raydiate said:

A+++ Build man!! I'm loving it. Just one thing I was wondering though, what did you use for your front hubs to not have a CV axle there?

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Hi!.. I used the stock hubs from an Galant GTi -88 (same as EVO)
Also cut them down as much as it would allow in order to get as
little centreweight as possible:




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Right front arch fitted:


Started on the left rear by measurning it in place:


Drilled the holes & attached the screws:


Removed the arch to measure where to cut the stock fender:


Also cut a little off the rear bumper:


stock fender cut 4cm:


Cut:


Started weldning inner/outer fender together:


The inner fender is hammered out & then welded to the outher one:


All welded & grinded:


Painted after grinding/cleaning:


4 hours work is what it took.

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went back to the garage after a few hours.... the paint had almost dried..
So I fitted the arch & wheel to see how it looked with the Coilover in
maximum LOWERED position.




The part of the cage i had to remowe in order to raise the propshafttunnel,
is in place againg (a new pipe)