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Gt28rs "disco potato" For road course

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93Lzr

10+ Year Contributor
214
0
May 26, 2012
Grand Forks, North_Dakota
Does anybody have some experience with this turbo? I am interested in using it for the quick spool because I am going to hold my laser for road course racing. Is it a bolt On just like a 16g or 20g or do I need a different manifold?? Thansk
 
I never got to run the one I purchased cause it turned out to have some damage. It was fp's bolt on version with a 44lb/min compressor wheel, the fp2544. The exhaust housing will let you keep a stock flanged manifold.
 
I don't think they make a DSM flanged GT28RS. You would need a different manifold. Probably T2 or T3.. I think. But seems kind of weird to use it.

An Evo 3 16G or Bastard 20G would be a better choice and bolt straight up.
 
"Disco Potato" was the name of a car featured in Sport Compact Magazine which happened to have a GT2860RS on it. I have no clue how the name of the car made it's way on to a production turbo like that. Think of it as someone having a 20G on their Barney-purple 2G, and after the magazine with their car in it hits the news stand the 20G is forever known as the "Purple Dinosaur". Quite annoying if you ask me.

To be brutally honest, a GT2860RS sucks. It's about as potent as a Small 16G but without a DSM bolt-on turbine housing, and it cannot be rebuilt. A Small 16G spools right around 3000-3200 in 3rd gear on flat ground- there's no way a 2860 could outspool or outflow a Small 16G by enough to offset the heavier price tag, ridiculous repair/replacement cost, or the amount of additional parts you'd have to buy just to make it fit your car (manifold, wastegate, custom o2 housing, etc).

Any mention of the FP2544 is likely talking about a turbo using a GT2871 compressor, which is the same wheel used on a 3071R. The 2860 could never flow 44 lb/min. From the sound of it, and this is only speculation as I've not seen one- a FP2544 is a GT2871R cartridge that is set into a DSM T25 turbine housing in order to be a direct-fit upgrade to our cars.
 
Wasn't the 2860rs supposed to have amazing transient response? I was on the understanding that's why all the Nissan guys like them so much for road racing/autox.

I could just be talking out of my ass though. I honestly haven't heard the term disco potato in 5 or 6 years...
 
Wasn't the 2860rs supposed to have amazing transient response? I was on the understanding that's why all the Nissan guys like them so much for road racing/autox.
Perhaps, but none of the 2860 users have experience with a Small 16G, either.

Across the board I don't see one outperforming the other by much except in the price tag department. You have to remember that the Nissan guys using 2860's were previously using a T25, just like our 2G guys...and compared to a T25 anything is going to seem like a substantial upgrade.
 
Justin, I'm pretty sure you're correct about the 2544 being a 2871. The part number I have for a replacement chra is for the 2871. The guy I bought it from claimed it was running full tilt around 2800 rpm. I think it would be great for road course. There are probably several other turbos that will do as good of a job for less money and work though.
 
^ If that statement is true (but it seems nobody can agree on *true* full-boost numbers because engine load changes with gear selection), then that turbo would be your ultimate road course weapon. Figure it's basically a 20G which comes to life about 800rpms sooner...what's not to love?

But like I said, are we talking 2800rpms in your power gears like 1st and 2nd, or does full boost at 2800 happen while rolling into the throttle on the highway in 5th? Gear selection is a huge player in turbo response.
 
He said 3rd gear roll if I remember correctly. I was excited to see what it could do. I've kept it around all these years in hopes of one day having the time and money to build a car and use this turbo.
 
We've sort-of touched on that in another thread, James- it's not because the demand isn't there, it's because the donor turbo used to build the 68HTA has gone up so much in price (Evo III 16G) where turbos like the FP Green and Red no longer use actual MHI parts as they once did. Basically it would be a hard sale if the less-potent 68HTA is a few hundred more than the Green or Red which have the same HTA technology.

If there was a way for FP to currently sell the 68HTA at the $925 it was originally introduced at and still make a profit, that would be the #1-selling upgrade turbo without a doubt as it would be cheaper than a MHI Evo III 16G.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/440969-hta68-vs-hta-green-3.html#post153035297
 
Coming from the Nissan camp, I'm definitely familiar with most of "our guys" obsession with the 2860 and 2871r. I have tried convincing many a person that it isn't actually the best turbo in the world, but they're pretty set on it. I think it's mainly because it's a straight bolt-on for SR20 owners, but no dyno I've seen is that impressive (besides one 2871 on a KA24). They all talk about how the transient response is so amazing and whatnot, but it's kind of hard to believe.

If you're looking for a smaller turbo like that, definitely stick with the bolt-on stuff (68HTA, 16G, etc), it's just so much more cost effective.
 
The power delivery and transient response actually IS as good as they say but I don't feel its a good turbo for our cars....IF you want to be competitive at least. This is coming from the vw application though. That's right....I was a hardcore dubber for many years until I got my EVO and that ended quickly. My ex had both the APR stage 3 using the 2860 and then upgraded to the stage 3+, using a 2871 on her jetta gli. The stage 3 made 320whp on race gas setting and the stage 3+ made 387whp. My gti had a dbb sc61 making 415whp. While a lot can be attributed to APR's perfection in tuning and r&d, the turbos had such a smooth and OEM like response, it was AMAZING for a 1.8 ltr motor making that kind of power.while everyone bitches about the price, it is, imo to this day, one of the most complete and well put together kits for someone wanting that kind of power while having oem like drivability and reliability....with that said, I wouldn't do anything smaller than a 3071 in the garret gt lineup for our cars and I think that there are plenty of better choices than that out there.
 
My first turbo upgrade (years ago) was a disco potato (gt28rs). It's a very fast spooling turbo, no doubt, but not optimal for our cars due to the work involved. I had to have a custom flange and downpipe made to make it work, which cost a pretty penny. Other options will work as well for a lot less money.
 
"Disco Potato" was the name of a car featured in Sport Compact Magazine which happened to have a GT2860RS on it. I have no clue how the name of the car made it's way on to a production turbo like that. Think of it as someone having a 20G on their Barney-purple 2G, and after the magazine with their car in it hits the news stand the 20G is forever known as the "Purple Dinosaur". Quite annoying if you ask me.

To be brutally honest, a GT2860RS sucks. It's about as potent as a Small 16G but without a DSM bolt-on turbine housing, and it cannot be rebuilt. A Small 16G spools right around 3000-3200 in 3rd gear on flat ground- there's no way a 2860 could outspool or outflow a Small 16G by enough to offset the heavier price tag, ridiculous repair/replacement cost, or the amount of additional parts you'd have to buy just to make it fit your car (manifold, wastegate, custom o2 housing, etc).

Any mention of the FP2544 is likely talking about a turbo using a GT2871 compressor, which is the same wheel used on a 3071R. The 2860 could never flow 44 lb/min. From the sound of it, and this is only speculation as I've not seen one- a FP2544 is a GT2871R cartridge that is set into a DSM T25 turbine housing in order to be a direct-fit upgrade to our cars.

This is so true. I just sold my GT2860RS last friday on Craigslist after trying to make the thing work. Had a T3 manifold with external gate & a custom O2 housing made with a 5-bolt flange to match up to the ford style turbine housing.

Messed around with the thing for over a month trying to make it work. Justin said I'd be downgrading from my E3 16G when I asked him about it a couple of months ago but I had already received the Garrett. I should've listened to him the first time. Garrett's pretty cool as long as you've never tried a E316G.
 
I think it's mainly because it's a straight bolt-on for SR20 owners.
Bingo.

Good luck convincing a SR20 guy that a DSM bolt-on Evo III 16G is worth installing. You'd have about the same success doing that as convincing a DSM guy to throw down for a T3 manifold, custom o2 housing, and external gate for a 300-hp turbo.
 
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