Im assuming still a stock turbo manifold to. Reason I ask is I had a DNP tubular on my old GST and it did the same thing I just put a 1g N/T radiator and hoses that moved them away from the manifold about 5inchs away from manifold. As to where the stock 2g was literally about 1inch from it and the heat would make the coolat so hot the car would run hot.

that i haven't tried. I'll see if that works. and also

the custom duct work.

I agree with the water pump most likely being the issue. BUT > I would flush the system first, way cheaper and less time consuming. Just may do the trick. My 1G when I had this issue was the WP, my F150, I got off with a flush and another flush.

I have a 2gb eclipse GST. My car overheats when I am at highspeeds or when I push it hard at full throttle. The temp gauge immediately shoots right up between the middle bar and the bar underneath the HOT bar( Starting from the top, between 1/4 bar and 1/2 bar). I have checked my coolant levels and it is fine. I have also checked to see if my fan is working and it is fine as well. I have no AC so I do not have the second fan and since I run a short route piping intercooler I do not have room for it. I am running about 18-20psi on a 16g turbo and is tuned on ecm link v3. I am just wondering if that has anything to do with it. Please help, I do not want to risk blowing a head gasket or anything else. I am not blowing white smoke either.

Have you checked your thermostat and cap? You can also try doing a flush. Cooling efficiency may be way down due to the system being dirty or partially clogged with debris.

Its cause you have a small water cooled turbo. Mine does the same thing on a hot day. I got stuck in traffic on the interestate a week or so ago and mine kept doing the same thing. I dont have ac either and am running 2 slim fans which I have turned on all the time with ecmlink. I have been thinking of putting one on the front of the radiator to push air through. I would say you need another fan to keep your car cool.

Your head gasket blew a tiny hole into one of the coolant ducts. That or your tuned for too much timing or not enough fuel in WOT.

I have checked the radiator cap and flushed out the coolant. Muddfisher85, does your car also cool down when you are not on the throttle and moving 40mph+. It seems to cool down when I am not on the throttle and leaving it on roll. When I come to a stop, it starts to jump a little back up. Should I upgrade to a performance aluminum radiator like mishimoto? I will get it re tuned in a couple weeks. I hope it helps!

when it gets hot pull over and pop the hood.. feel your radiator for hot spots/cool spots. if its the original radiator then its probably lost alot of its efficentcy due to crude buildup inside. if both sides of the radiator feel about the same temp then thats whats going on. if one side feels much cooler then the other then you probably have a sticking thermostate or waterpump on its way out.

Do you have ducting for the radiator?

I don't have an air duct tsiawd666. 007 Jimmy, both sides if the radiator left and right feel about the same temperature. Do you mean front and back? I am going to replace my radiator cap anyways just in case.

You need ductwork. You're not getting enough airflow to your radiator. You might have got by with no ductwork and no fmic, but the combination of removing the stock ductwork and placing an fmic in the mouth of the car has limited your airflow enough so the radiator can't transfer its heat away fast enough resulting in the higher temperatures.

+1 ^^^^^^^
Do some ducting forsure, Heat shields, and check water pump rad cap and flush like also stated above.

How about a small exhuast leak from a crack in your manifold? Only reason I say that is I was complaining about my temps with some gauge rise and fixing that solved it. I run a similar set up and Psi already have a slim fan / radiator combo and on a hot day temps can see 210*-220* [Only down fall in Florida] unless I dont go into boost at all and even then temps are till 190* with intake temps at about 150* just some input even with a new radiator slim fan and recently getting rid of my top heat shield for my 16g engine temps are still a losing battle in my book....

Thanks guy, I will do this ducting and replace the cap. I do not think I can use a heat shielf because I am using the "horns" exhaust manifold.

If its the same temp at the inlet and outlet then the radiator isnt doing its job. As you increase rpm's the time the coolant is in the radiator decreases. Its doesnt stay in the radiator long enough to cool down so it gets heat soaked. If it was hot all the time then ducting would help. Ducting right now would only mask the problem to be delt with at a later time. I was running the same setup as you (stock radiator, single fan, no ducting and big front mount) for a couple years with no issues because my radiator was doing it job. im still running the same setup except now I have an aluminum radiator but thats only because the original one started to show signs of failing around the water neck soon and I wanted a polished aluminum one.

Mine did this last week, so I replaced my thermostat and it fixed my problem.

nasty_4g63 did this happen to you exactly like me, when you go high speeds or like open throttle, the temp gauge went up but when I drive normally it stays normal. Did that happen if so I am going to buy a thermostat. I want to try and find the exact problem without spending alot of money troubleshooting around. Oh by the way guys, if this help I did a 6 bolt swap and I did use the 6 bolt thermostat.

muddfisher85 said:

Its cause you have a small water cooled turbo. Mine does the same thing on a hot day. I got stuck in traffic on the interestate a week or so ago and mine kept doing the same thing. I dont have ac either and am running 2 slim fans which I have turned on all the time with ecmlink. I have been thinking of putting one on the front of the radiator to push air through. I would say you need another fan to keep your car cool.

Click to expand...

Completely untrue, an air cooled, vs coolant cooled turbo has nothing to do with overheating during pulls. It is the thermostats job to regulate temperature and flow and the radiator's job to dissipate the heat, one of the two aren't working to their potential for a potentially huge list of reasons. To the OP, start small and work your way up to the bigger more expensive fixes. I would start with ducting as others have mentioned, if that doesn't do the trick check your fans, chemical HG test, perform a flush, thermostat replacement, radiator replacement, water pump, even the heater core being clogged can cause odd problems such as this as the heater core acts as a small radiator to dissipate heat even when you don't have the heat "on", and is the system's bypass.

I call it a clogged radiator.

Take it out and flush all the crud that resides in the bottom with a garden hose.

Prob so full of crud that the coolant can't flow evenly through the cores.

This occurance that is happening to the OP happened with me. I Pulled the radiator, did the block/radiator flush, new cap and t-stat, and that was 4yrs ago.

I can sit at a light on a hot day, or hit the freeway, my temp gauge stays put and my coolant level remains were it's at - close to the top of the fill neck - when I check it on a regular basis.

Just time for a flush this year.

EDIT: Do you have your license plate in front of the air intake opening? For when you're moving forward with the car, esp at the high speeds you mentioned, that plate acts like a very nice air dam pushing air away from the radiator, which will cause the overheating.

-DSM

I changed the radiator cap and still has the same problem..

I say its heat soaking the rad from running no heat shield. My car will overheat on the interstate only after driving for a few miles. I've tried everything. Aluminum rad, fans, making a scoop for the rad under the car, removing the weather strip at the top of the hood to vent more air and it still does it. I'm going to put heat wrap on my manifold next. It's the only thing I haven't tried. Mine started when I put the manifold on and removed the heat shield.

How about flushing your radiator? Or changing the T-stat other then ducting that may be your only way to go from here if you find that your radiator isnt clogged or maybe the water pump????

Im having this exact same problem. Ive narrowed it down to a few things.
I have New aluminum radiator, new hoses, new tstat, new cap, new headgasket, not pushing coolant.

I have ducting from the fmic to the rad only on the sides but the bottom is open so I may enclose that for more flow to the radiator.
The waterpump was not replaced when I redid my headgasket even though I have a new one. I inspected the old one and it looked very good, maybe I was wrong so it may be the waterpump.

Via ecmlink, when I added a 15* coolant offset to bring the fans on earlier, it also has seemed to fix my problem. The coolant offset also causes the car to pull timing at 206-15 = 191 degrees so instead I may just turn my fan on all the time (even though I hate starting the car and hearing that loud ass fan).

Ducting and tuning are easy, hopefully its not the waterpump.

Not very likely, but I had one doing it to me. Let it go,let it go, and finally the oil pump finished itself off. Oil is a major part of cooling the engine typically at more RPM. But, if all else fails, may be worth looking into.
Matt

I am going to flush out the radiator and clean it, see where this takes me, hopefully this is the fix

I have my radiator overflow tank right behind the radiator, does this have anything to do with it to. I run a short route intercooler setup, vrsf, I need to figure out where to relocate the radiator overflow tank, any suggestions?