may need to bleed the slave cylinder. there is a proper how to somewhere on this site may have to search a bit.

have you adjusted the master rod? look up jacks transmission clutch adjustment. A lot of people have adjusted the rod to be almost flush at the "C" bolt that ataches to it. Be sure to snug the locking nut down or do like I did and use blue loctite if you want it to stay that way.

Yes I bled it via the slave cylinder. But how do you explain- the clutch pedal assembly- not moving the rack that goes to the master cylinder rod right after you push it down a bit.

GSLENK said:

have you adjusted the master rod? look up jacks transmission clutch adjustment. A lot of people have adjusted the rod to be almost flush at the "C" bolt that ataches to it. Be sure to snug the locking nut down or do like I did and use blue loctite if you want it to stay that way.

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Master rod I matched it perfectly with the old stock one. It still has 2 mm thread left on top.

I have 10 cm of travel on the clutch before I feel pressure. In that free zone the master cylinder pushrod does not move.

I had the same problem. i ended up having to bleed it some more as well as readjust the master rod. get the person who helped you bleed the system watch the slave cylinder and tell you when it starts moving as you slowly push the pedal down also make sure that the slave cylinder doesn't stop moving before the pedal does or you'll end up blowing out the seals. don't under estimate how long it can take if air is trapped in the system, spent like 30 mins bleeding a system at work today. could also be a slight leak at the connections so check those too. best of luck.

My dad is going to borrow a tool to powerbleed the system.But I find it so strange that the clutch pedal is off like that.

Any hydraulic system is a pita to bleed everything out. Air wants to travel up while we want the fluid/ air to go down. If you can't get it to what you like spend the 30 bucks n have a shop power bleed it same with brakes. Also did you bench bleed the master cylinder before install?

Riceburning101 said:

Any hydraulic system is a pita to bleed everything out. Air wants to travel up while we want the fluid/ air to go down. If you can't get it to what you like spend the 30 bucks n have a shop power bleed it same with brakes. Also did you bench bleed the master cylinder before install?

Click to expand...

Hi

Yes my dad borrowed a powerbleeding tool today. But we haven't had a chance to try it.

Before the install we did not bench bleed it. But after the install we did some of it, disconnecting the solid hydraulic line on the side of it, back n forth.

I still would like a answer to my pedal question. If you have a picture of how the assembly works exactly. Because the master cylinder is not directly attached to the clutch pedal, rather a bar(round) that goes above the brake pedal. I would like to know all the components in that bar.

Bench bleeding is almost a must. You get a brake line that meets the correct threads for the out of the fluid n route it to the fluid res. N just pump the rod to get the air out of the master. For the clutch pedal at least a stock setup is the actual bracket that bolts to the firewall interior side of the car. Then the rod from the master meets the actual pedal with a bracket that has a hole in for a metal pin to connect the rod to the pedal. A washed goes on the hole side of the metal pin and a locking clip/ cotter pin goes in the hole. Then there is the spring assembly that connects the main bracket to the pedal. Google eclipse clutch pedal assembly or look through the classified sections. There are also the neutral safety switch on the pedal

Wrong car but good example http://fixautopartz.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/toyota-corolla-clutch-pedal-adjustment-thumb.png

You could also have a worn out pedal assembly. if you have already changed your master and slave cylinder, bleed it, and adjusted then the last thing I can' think of is having a worn out pedal assembly.Unless the pivot ball is worn out or the clutch fork is bent. I have a 1G too so I know what that sloppy pedal feels like.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/196048-any-1g-clutch-pedal-pic-requests.html

phantom_19 said:

Yes I bled it via the slave cylinder. But how do you explain- the clutch pedal assembly- not moving the rack that goes to the master cylinder rod right after you push it down a bit.



Master rod I matched it perfectly with the old stock one. It still has 2 mm thread left on top.

I have 10 cm of travel on the clutch before I feel pressure. In that free zone the master cylinder pushrod does not move.

Click to expand...

Master cylinder rod does not move at all? as in you were on your back looking up your pedal assembly like it was a dirty hooker, and you pretzel twisted your arm up to press the clutch pedal while watching all this? (its actually not that bad)

I did, and I saw the spring move, and the MC rod move. If you can press the pedal and nothing moves, you should pull the pedal assembly and have a look.

10cm is about 4 inches. that's a ####MegaSuperHellaLot of play. like your engagement if you have any must be an inch off the road, and thats with your car at factory ride height.

Just pull the Pedal assembly. It sucks. its not impossible. Buy the brass bushings from shep trans. Or mail him your assy, and he will weld it together and add bushings, and a new pedal to make it bullet proof, or if you are good, you can do all that. ~200 if he does it, $40 if you do it. its cheap. do it.

Seems like the next logical step.

I pulled mine and had zero play. I put the bushings as preventative maintenance for a heavier clutch/PP. I am so glad its out of the way, and out of mind.

Clutches are strange birds, bud. I just swapped out a sachs with a comp stage 4/fidanza flywheel and had to drastically adjust my master rod. It works perfect now. The master rod is nearly flush with the clip the pedal pushes on. Ive got a little bit of play up top still, but no issues. Btw, when you have your master rod adjusted way out like that, its so so much easier to bleed the system. As long as you dont block the reuptake valve, or whatever they call it .

Pretty crazy thread you've got yourself. Head GSLENK's comments. It is likely that if you really had 10cm of play in your pedal you would immediately recognize that the assembly is extremely worn and needs replacement/repair. Be certain that you've properly adjusted the master cylinder rod.

Adjust your master cylinder.
Inspect your clutch pedal assembly for wear or even cracks.

Free play at the top of the clutch stroke is desirable and in some cases absolutely necessary. I need not mention that free play due to wear, is not desirable.

phantom_19 said:

Master rod I matched it perfectly with the old stock one. It still has 2 mm thread left on top.

Click to expand...

A fine place to start, but simply leaving it at that is not a properly adjusted clutch.

I made a small video showing what is going on.

clutch pedal mystery - YouTube

I'm less familiar with 1g's but a quick search turned up videos showing pretty much exactly what you've got going on. Looks like it's time to pull the pedal.

it doesn'tlook to me like your pedal is making it all the way to the floor. at about 1:30 it doesn't look like that second switch is being touched by that plate/bracket or whatever you want to call it. measure the distance the pedal travels from the bracket/switch that it contacts when the pedal is up to as far as you can push itmy pedals full travel is about 2.5 inches total travel from pedal up to pedal to the floor.

just adjust the rod all the way out and see what it does. just for giggles, because im pretty certain there is not enough adjustment left to do anything significant. but its really easy to try before you get into some aggravating stuff next.

If you say that the MC and slave are 100% and OEM, and bleed 100% then the problem has to be in the fulcrum/pivot ball (very unlikely to be pressure plate, and I cannot imagine how, without affecting driveability) or the pedal assembly.

The trans is a PITA if only for a ball/fork... and the pedal assy is a huge PITA considering its only ~20 lbs...

So the easier thing to do (well least aggravating/hard, because all options are a PITA) besides throwing money at MC's and slaves, would be to take a day off and pull the pedal assy. Make sure you get the shep bushings first, and pop them in while you have it out.

I hope its not a DD because you have quite a list of all day projects/diagnostics to get your shifting game in tip top shape.