This is my relocation map, still running well with no issues...

PS: no breaker fuses...just normal car audio fuses...

I believe I'm just running 2 100a fuses in my dis box, 1 for alt and 1 for fuse box.

Exxxel said:

This is my relocation map, still running well with no issues...

PS: no breaker fuses...just normal car audio fuses...

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Hmmm this looks like a good one but I dont see a line for the alternator tough and I was gonna go eigther way car, audio, or breakers wichever I could find haha

Here's mine with the alternator wired to the battery.

Alternator is wired to the the fusebox, so why do you need to wire it directly to the battery?

I currently have 14.4v at the battery when the car is running, just for my opinion it is an overkill to rewire it directly
Rewire is necessary if you have a long lenght of cable or a small section on the main wire (battery/fusebox)...I have 2x8awg it is more than adequate for the power consumption...
Starter needs to have a dedicate wire (at least 2awg) in any case...

I have one 2ga wire running from the battery in the trunk to a junction block in my engine bay, with a 200amp breaker less than a foot from the battery in the trunk. Battery grounded in the trunk.

Alternator through the fuse box (new 2ga wire). Then two 4 ga wires run from fuse block to junction block. Then a 2ga wire to the starter from the junction.

More or less, it's run like the factory, but with a really long positive battery cable. Everything that used to connect to the battery is connected to a junction block in my engine bay.

knochgoon24 said:

I have one 2ga wire running from the battery in the trunk to a junction block in my engine bay, with a 200amp breaker less than a foot from the battery in the trunk. Battery grounded in the trunk.

Alternator through the fuse box (new 2ga wire). Then two 4 ga wires run from fuse block to junction block. Then a 2ga wire to the starter from the junction.

More or less, it's run like the factory, but with a really long positive battery cable. Everything that used to connect to the battery is connected to a junction block in my engine bay.

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This is the same way mine is minus the breaker by the battery. One big ass wire,the factory wire that runs in a BMW not sure the exact size, runs from the hatch to the bay where I separated it into 2 wires that run in a fused dis block where the factory wires run into it. One side has a 100amp bar fuse that has the alt wires, the other side has a 100amp bar fuse for the fuse box etc.
This is working fine for me and hasn't have me any problems. (knocks wood)
Now it's time for everyone to come in and tell me why this and that is wrong, but like I said no problems yet.

Exxxel said:

Alternator is wired to the the fusebox, so why do you need to wire it directly to the battery?

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I did it this way because if wired like stock if you hit the disconnect in the rear to kill the car the alternator is still spinning and could still power the fuse box, fuel pumps, and the car could keep running. How I have mine wired both power sources will be isolated from the car at the disconnect. Overkill? Probably.

2slow4now said:

I did it this way because if wired like stock if you hit the disconnect in the rear to kill the car the alternator is still spinning and could still power the fuse box, fuel pumps, and the car could keep running. How I have mine wired both power sources will be isolated from the car at the disconnect. Overkill? Probably.

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This. It's the only way to keep it NHRA legal.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art.../426604-1g-galant-vr4-battery-relocation.html

I made this a while back and tried to explain everything the best I could.

knochgoon24 said:

I have one 2ga wire running from the battery in the trunk to a junction block in my engine bay, with a 200amp breaker less than a foot from the battery in the trunk. Battery grounded in the trunk.

Alternator through the fuse box (new 2ga wire). Then two 4 ga wires run from fuse block to junction block. Then a 2ga wire to the starter from the junction.

More or less, it's run like the factory, but with a really long positive battery cable. Everything that used to connect to the battery is connected to a junction block in my engine bay.

Click to expand...

Mine is like this except I have a kill switch as well
I'm also thinking about running 8ga wire from the battery to my fusebox for my fans and 8ga wire to my fans. For some reason they seem under-powered to me, I have both fans running off the fan switch instead of just the one.

Lofty said:

This. It's the only way to keep it NHRA legal.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art.../426604-1g-galant-vr4-battery-relocation.html

I made this a while back and tried to explain everything the best I could.

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That's what I was planning for Lofty. That and if something bad happened I didn't want it to burn to the ground. Nice right up too.

If I need to get a kill switch, I'll just get a dual circuit one and run the power for the fuel pump through the seconds circuit. Not sure it would count for NHRA stuff, but it would kill the motor quick.

Lofty said:

This. It's the only way to keep it NHRA legal.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art.../426604-1g-galant-vr4-battery-relocation.html

I made this a while back and tried to explain everything the best I could.

Click to expand...

Learned something new we don't have drag tracks in italy

i see some people put a wire from the battery negative to the engine compartment, whats the benefit of doing this? is it necessary?

lars y said:

i see some people put a wire from the battery negative to the engine compartment, whats the benefit of doing this? is it necessary?

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Running a negative wire can be a cause of noise... If you hav good (grinded) grounding points it is not necessary

lars y said:

i see some people put a wire from the battery negative to the engine compartment, whats the benefit of doing this? is it necessary?

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For some reason my car stopped starting after awhile. Turns out I needed to run a ground to the bay.
*shrug*

It may be necessary depending on the vehicle.