YZFR1 said:

Is there a certain break in period for journal bearing turbos?

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Long enough to verify that it's getting oil properly and there are no leaks in any of the lines.

YZFR1 said:

The reason i ask is because when i rebuilt my 14b, i polished the shaft and touched up the bearings a little. Put a few miles on the turbo, it feels nice and tight but doesn't seem to spin as easily as it did before i took it apart. Is that normal? Thank you

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Not sure about that, it should spin smoother than ever once it's given a supply of clean oil from the engine.

Purple_Demon said:

Justin,

Recently I purchased a Tial 50mm BOV, it is the one that is old school and no longer in production.

TiAL Sport.com


I was curious as to the spring tension, it is extremely hard to depress the valve inside even with using both thumbs. So I figured the spring inside must be quite stiff, I am still learning about the actual spring tension purposes, but will I run into any issues while using a BOV with a spring that stiff?

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Sure, you might as well not even have a BOV if the engine's vacuum can't draw it open.

Tune the valve using the appropriate spring matched to the vacuum your engine draws at idle.

Can I swap out the CHRA from a 14b to an evo 16g, my 16g has play and i was wondering if i disassemble and swap the turbines to my 14b with no play or would that not work.

^ No, the machined part of the CHRA (forgot the name of it) is smaller than the 16g wheel. It will not spin if you try and bolt it on as is. Just rebuild it and call it a day.

Two questions.... Ebay wg, or mhi small 16g wg?

Second question... If i go ebay wg..bothe are not seized btw. How do i adjust the wg for more than 12 psi? So which way do i go,shorter or longer?

Chris_92TSi said:

Can I swap out the CHRA from a 14b to an evo 16g, my 16g has play and i was wondering if i disassemble and swap the turbines to my 14b with no play or would that not work.

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No. This question has been absolutely beaten to death over the site's 10 year history if you would have searched a little.

Bud92gsx said:

Two questions.... Ebay wg, or mhi small 16g wg?

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The actuators? Use the one that fits whatever turbine housing you're using.

Bud92gsx said:

Second question... If i go ebay wg..bothe are not seized btw. How do i adjust the wg for more than 12 psi? So which way do i go,shorter or longer?

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Don't screw with the wastegate's tension or you'll end up with boost spikes. Set the actuator so you have to pull it out about 1/8" to get it over the pin on the flapper lever. Adjust your boost level with a MBC until you get to the end of the MBC's effective range, and then add some tension to the actuator arm if necessary.

Dammit..Allright.If thats your suggestion.,DONE..That was my first idea.I just wanted to be different and use the WG arm to set boost a tad higher.

I did not have any spikes when I had the wg on there last time.But boost was reset to wg pressure.

Now for the fun, to get everything reset, to go with new setup.

i have a hx35 im debating on running looking for a good street car turbo my hx35 has the small 50mm inducer compressor wheel how should it compair in spool with a .55 ar bep housing to say a e316g?

No idea. Every setup is different based on tune, supporting mods like manifold type, fuel type, engine compression, etc.

I don't know a single person running a 50mm/78mm HX35, so I couldn't even guess.

This is a statement only. It's much easier to take off a WG than it is to put one on.

Justin is this a real BEP .70 T3 HX40 housing? I'm asking because i bought it as one and now it doesnt fit my HX40,it seems where the turbine wheel goes is more bigger than the HX40 wheel.

There's one for a HX35 and one for a HX40, specifically. If your HX40 turbine measures 76mm/64mm and this housing still is too large, there's a good chance it's for something like a S366 which has a 76mm/67mm turbine.

Should fit tight around the radius of the wheel:

Mine is a stadard hx40 64/76 turbine wheel.Guy sold it to me as an HX40 Bep housing.

Justin you ever tested a turbo with a hair dryer?

You might be a dsmer, if you use a hair dryer to make sure the wheels spin..I din't get much positive pressure tho, maybe just enough that you know the compressor wheel was working.

Give me a break, Bud. Seriously.

And you thought I wasn't totally mental.Shame on you.

I freaking did it man..I could not find the air pump for the air mattress...So hair dryer is hot, exhaust is hot.Stick hair dyer in hotside inlet, make sure turbo has oil..And have about 15 seconds worth of fun, before it gets old.



Although I do have a question..I went with the wg the turbine housing came with.Well I got it on, got the snap ring thing in..But now the actuator seems really tight.It will probabaly be fine right?

Hey check this tiny collection out.

I have a Snail turbo billet 20g compressor. My plans are for a quick spooling street turbo with some punch. I am thinking about having a 14b machined to fit this compressor wheel and have a recirculated external waste gate off the o2 housing.

What do you suggest I do?

Alucards_blood said:

I have a Snail turbo billet 20g compressor. My plans are for a quick spooling street turbo with some punch. I am thinking about having a 14b machined to fit this compressor wheel and have a recirculated external waste gate off the o2 housing.

What do you suggest I do?

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You'll need a larger compressor cover- a 14B cover cannot be machined to accept a 20G wheel as the 20G's inducer is larger than the machinable area of a 14B cover's inlet. Basically the inlet bell would be wafer-thin, and the weight of your intake system would snap it right off the cover. You'll need a 16G cover if you plan on staying with the stock-appearing cover.

A 20G can be easily controlled with an internal gate. I don't see the need to go external and spend the money on the housing, the gate, plug the flapper removal / porting.

If you do decide to stick with the external gate idea, you should really look into getting a downfiring cover to eliminate the need for a j-pipe. They can be a huge pain in the ass.

Bud92gsx said:

Justin you ever tested a turbo with a hair dryer?

You might be a dsmer, if you use a hair dryer to make sure the wheels spin..I din't get much positive pressure tho, maybe just enough that you know the compressor wheel was working.

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I haven't used a hair dryer, but I have used a leaf blower...

Hey Justin, does the bep t3 housing place the exhaust flange further away from the alternator than the stock hx40 housing? Right now I've got an hx40 mounted to a punishment racing budget manifold in it's stock housing (16cm I think) and there isn't even room for a pie cut. Looking for a alternative to relocating the alternator.

I'm sure it does- if nothing else the BEP housing wouldn't have the wastegate crapola that the 16cm housing has, giving much more room on that side of the housing. Plenty of guys are using the .70 T3 housings, so I know they work.

Just a tad change of scenery here...


Justin,


How is your DSM doing? Is the .70 housing treating you well?

JusMX141 said:

I'm sure it does- if nothing else the BEP housing wouldn't have the wastegate crapola that the 16cm housing has, giving much more room on that side of the housing. Plenty of guys are using the .70 T3 housings, so I know they work.

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Thank you. Looks like I'll be going with the bep .70

Justin,

What would you recommend for a budget turbo on a 750cc bike?

Its a stock motor and has 12.3:1 compression. I'd probably drop to 10:1 or so with a head gasket or a set of pistons. Stock it probably makes about 125whp, i'd be looking for 225ish on 93 octane.

I'll figure something out for an intercooler and plumbing.

Thoughts?

Possibly a KKK K03 from a 1.8L VW?



Words can't describe how small the inlet is on that beast- around the size of a 50-cent piece. It's internally-gated and the actuator is fully adjustable, although finding flanges might be a bi***.

I'm not really sure what all is out there in that size. I'd imagine you're going to be running 10-12psi or so to get this done, and the K03 should still spool decent and make power on a sub-1000 liter bike because of how far it revs.

Ok good to know that thought actually crossed my mind.

I was thinking K04 but if the K03 has the breath I'd rather do that.

Bike revs to 14k so as long as it spools by 9k or so it's more than responsive enough. I don't want a torque monster, it's going to be tough to control the power if I go through with this