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It's building 25 psi off the line(too much at the moment) at 3750 and could build whatever I want. It takes about 4 seconds judging by my reaction time :p Stock converter of course. I have the boost set at 30 psi but I didn't look at the gauge this time, I generally have to turn it up a little bit since it runs 2-3 less psi at the track for whatever reason.

Ed1380, I would think that you wouldn't want to have the sum area any smaller than the turbine housing since the turbine housing is usually the biggest restriction. I don't have any info to back that up though.

Thanks for the comments!
 
10.5@129!!! 1.51 60'

Put some limiting straps on the front and seemed to help a lot- lifts about an inch or inch and a half then stays, no more huge camber changes in the front when launching. The rear is a different story though... You may notice it slips into third; I lifted but didn't time it right.

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The next pass I tried to leave a little harder(last pass was leaving at 3500 but the 2 step popped while I rolled out at 3750) by taking the 2 step off and leaving at 3500 again. Broke a 3 bolt rear axle a couple feet out.
 
Wow, Congrats! Once you get the susp dialed in you'll be low 10's! Hope your portly DSM doesn't constantly cause part failure.

That is alot of squat in the rear... You could make adjustable bump stops for the rear to help limit that squat. A piece of split steal piping with rubber bump stops hose clamped on top of the shock works well on the FWD cars. Also very easy to take on and off. I'd assume on an AWD drag car you would want little to no suspension travel?

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Last edited by a moderator:
Mr Peepers said:
Definitely needs less tire pressure and/or less power off the line, spun the QTP's pretty good through first. Mixture of a stock center diff and stock suspension unloading the front tires.
Click to expand...

26" tires clear your stock suspension up front ? Do you have the spring perched notched ?

Congrats on your times and thanks for sharing your setup:thumb:
 
The tires clear but are close- no notching or anything. I don't know the offset on the wheels but I think I'd have issues if I tried putting 26" tall tires on my FD's without spacers.
 
Decided to make another trip to the track and make a street tire pass:
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The shorter tire killed the trap since I was bouncing off the 8k limiter in 3rd a good ways before the finish. Either way very happy with it :)

1/8th was something like 6.9@101. Still lifting quick while going into 3rd or it slips so may be affecting 1/8th trap.

Next year looks promising!
 
Nice work. Glad to see that all your hard work is paying off. I will be looking forward to the videos next year.

Robert
 
Nice run on street tires.

Just curious why you wouldn't shift to 4th?
 
Only made one pass and just held it out, wanted to get an idea where it would rev out to and how soon it hit the limiter. I may try shifting into OD next year but the rev limit will be higher, too.

The street tires themselves didn't knock off 9 mph, just that they aren't as tall as the QTP's so I'm at the rev limiter before the finish. I think it would have been about 130 still; I usually trapped a little higher with street tires on the 5 speed than the QTP's for whatever reason.
 
Huge thanks to Curtis Hacker for editing Jackal so I have a way to consistently launch/dial in the auto. NLTS no longer needs a VSS signal to work, so I can use the brake switch to immediately turn off the launch limiter. Builds about 10 psi at 3250 rpm(smoother if I'm part throttle) and quickly ramps when I let off the brake for great street tire launches. 3500 would probably be about perfect for the Hoosiers. Did some quick test "staging" and I don't have a problem holding it back with the brakes and "bumping" it up to the line then holding it. Maybe next year I won't have 1+ second r/t's :)

3rd gear is gone in this trans now though. Worked well and lasted right till the last of the season haha, suppose to snow tomorrow. Time to go through it and get ready for next year. I'll try to get a camera and keep track of the progress. Thanks everyone for the interest and support :rocks:
 
crash89 said:
1 second R/t's are better then Kennys like 4 second r/ts LOL. And ya knooooowww, you could get with the times and get a phone with a camera and throw away that brick you carry in your pocket! haha
Click to expand...

It gets on the stall a little better with the 75 shot vs the 50 shot.:)
 
Mr peepers:

I was thinking of making my own twin scroll manifold for my hx35 setup, but I want to use only one wastegate like yourself. My question is, did you divide the pipes that go to the wastegate flange? Or did you just merge them at the flange?
 
Your build has me wondering why I just bought a brand new S200SX. The power and spool combo of the Holset is amazing. The specs on the S200 aren't much different, hopefully I can replicate your power band!
 
slikvik said:
Mr peepers:

I was thinking of making my own twin scroll manifold for my hx35 setup, but I want to use only one wastegate like yourself. My question is, did you divide the pipes that go to the wastegate flange? Or did you just merge them at the flange?
Click to expand...

It is divided up until the base of the valve, and the divider is shaped to the profile of the valve. The gases would have a hard time mingling until the valve opens. I could see it negating a lot of the twin scroll spool up by not doing this with a single wastegate.
Last winter we put a divider in Kenny116's t4 twin scroll DNP since it only uses one valve. The difference in boost threshold was extremely improved, although he also went with an auto over the winter too.

FLASH1970 said:
Great read. Keep it up Matt!!! And thanks for taking me for a spin in the car. It's a beast.
Click to expand...

Thanks Gordon! I can't wait until you get your main project going :hellyeah:

RWD4G63 said:
Your build has me wondering why I just bought a brand new S200SX. The power and spool combo of the Holset is amazing. The specs on the S200 aren't much different, hopefully I can replicate your power band!
Click to expand...

It's more-so the twin scroll IMO, not the name on the compressor housing. Many many turbos, especially BW, offer twin scroll housings and a similar spec that would do the exact same thing. The hx35 was just a more obtainable path for me.
 
Can you post how you set up your timing retard switch that your using to launch your auto? I saw the video's on youtube but it just explained what it was but not what you needed to do to set it up.
 
I used the base timing connector wire(i think yellow with red stripe) off the ecu to force base timing. I tee'd an extra wire into it through an on/off switch(so its not always enabled) and then to the brake pedal switch relay that also controls the launch limiter. With the on/off switch off I can drive around normally without base timing every time I press the brake. With the switch on(usually pressed once I get on the stall or it takes longer) it sets timing to whatever base timing is set at and immediately reverts back to full timing once the pedal is released, as well as immediately turning off the launch limit rpm. Rpm flashes up and boost quickly ramps to 30psi.

I set base timing to 0*btdc and added 5* timing across the board in jackals timing map to keep everything where it should be. Keeping base timing at 5* worked too but 0 just seemed to work out for my setup at 3k rpm.

The main reason is to be able to lower the launch rpm without having a weaker launch at less psi. At the same rpm, timing and boost are inversely proportional. The great thing about timing is that it comes on instantly where as boost takes a little time to rise.

Lower rpm launches will put less stress on the transfer gears, less likely to pull through the brakes, and create less heat. Launching at 3250rpm without retarding the timing on the line also let's the car leave at 14ish psi but with the stock converter its really hard to stage the car properly without pulling through the brakes. 3k rpm let's me bump it to the line without ever needing to do a nuetral rev first. Also seems like it doesn't shock the tires as much judging by a sweet 1.61 60' on true street tires and stock suspension w/ straps.
 
Mr Peepers said:
I used the base timing connector wire(i think yellow with red stripe) off the ecu to force base timing. I tee'd an extra wire into it through an on/off switch(so its not always enabled) and then to the brake pedal switch relay that also controls the launch limiter. With the on/off switch off I can drive around normally without base timing every time I press the brake. With the switch on(usually pressed once I get on the stall or it takes longer) it sets timing to whatever base timing is set at and immediately reverts back to full timing once the pedal is released, as well as immediately turning off the launch limit rpm. Rpm flashes up and boost quickly ramps to 30psi.

I set base timing to 0*btdc and added 5* timing across the board in jackals timing map to keep everything where it should be. Keeping base timing at 5* worked too but 0 just seemed to work out for my setup at 3k rpm.

The main reason is to be able to lower the launch rpm without having a weaker launch at less psi. At the same rpm, timing and boost are inversely proportional. The great thing about timing is that it comes on instantly where as boost takes a little time to rise.

Lower rpm launches will put less stress on the transfer gears, less likely to pull through the brakes, and create less heat. Launching at 3250rpm without retarding the timing on the line also let's the car leave at 14ish psi but with the stock converter its really hard to stage the car properly without pulling through the brakes. 3k rpm let's me bump it to the line without ever needing to do a nuetral rev first. Also seems like it doesn't shock the tires as much judging by a sweet 1.61 60' on true street tires and stock suspension w/ straps.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply. When my car gets to that point ill give it a try since it will always be on street tires.
 
Quick update:

[email protected]

32-33 psi, 1.49 60'

mph was a little lower than expected but only got one run since I broke the front yoke the next pass. (except for the FWD pass after I dropped the driveshaft :p)
 
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