gofer said:

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Thanks gofer for posting up the parts list for me/us. I gotta say that your engine compartment is with no doubt, hands down the finest example of a high performance engine. Color combo is spot on. You should have no problems stacking up the trophies in shows for cleeeeeeanest engine. If not someone bribed the crooked judges...as you can tell I wished mine looked half that clean....

Yamahaulin said:

I have the early 95 with the vented rear rotors. Can i still directly swap in the evo rears.

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Yes you can.

It makes no difference early or late from a fitment perspective, the differences are all in the rotor and the caliper - the dust shield, hand brake parts, they're all identical on all 2G AWDs.

There is however a big difference in the proportioning valve specs - the early car should be fine with Evo brakes all round, whereas the later car will probably need rear pads made of Teflon to get the bias back in line

Awesome thanks for the info.

so im gettin ready to get the 3g master and BB since my engine is out its easy to swap in, should i grab a 95 prop valve too then??

I'm getting ready for my Brembo caliper swap....

Just came in yesterday.



DBA 4000 Series Club Spec Rotors, Hawk HPS Pads (temp, soon to be Feredo 2500), Super Blue brake fluid, and Custom brake lines.

Calipers are being stripped down, painted, rebuilt with all new seals and boots. Will be mounted on JDM knuckles.

Looks good, are you upgrading the brake hydraulics as well or you giving it a go with the GSX brake system?

BE SURE to follow the Hawk bed in procedures to the T, I spoke with one of their brake pad engineers a few weeks ago and if not followed correctly you can ruin a set of pads. They're written on the outside of the box, don't forget!

gofer said:

Looks good, are you upgrading the brake hydraulics as well or you giving it a go with the GSX brake system?

BE SURE to follow the Hawk bed in procedures to the T, I spoke with one of their brake pad engineers a few weeks ago and if not followed correctly you can ruin a set of pads. They're written on the outside of the box, don't forget!

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thanks. End goal is to upgrade the hydraulics but for now I'll stick with the GSX brake system.

What is the advantage of "Blue racing" brake fluid over just Advance Auto brand brake fluid?

A higher boiling point.

Blue is DOT4 instead of DOT3. DOT4 has advantages like higher heat resistance and some others that i cant think of at the moment.

One thing to keep in mind about brake fluid is that the higher the boiling point, the more hygroscopic the fluid. In smaller words, the fancier fluids need to be changed more often to work they way they are intended. If you don't actually need a high boiling point, then you should not be running fancy fluid, especially if you're the kind of person that never actually changes the fluid or, for example, adds fluid to the reservoir on rainy days.

(If you never realized that adding fluid on a rainy day is unwise, then you really don't need fancy fluid.)

High boiling temp fluid is one thing, but I was under the impression that the "blue" was simply for those folks who change fluid often enough to want to know when all the old fluid is out.

For example, you would alternate blue and clear fluid to know exactly when you've pumped out the last drop of the old fluid.

I swap from blue to red. Ate super blue then next time I use the red.

put the 3g booster and master in last night , i dont even know how you could do it with the engine and manifold in the car, it was a bit tight with me standing in the engine bay!!!!!

I didn't. You've got to pull the IM and "massage" the power steering lines to get the brake booster back there.

yeah i surely had to massage the line to get it in Very glad i did it while the engine is out. Cant wait to drive the car with all the brake upgrades it got

jtmcinder said:

One thing to keep in mind about brake fluid is that the higher the boiling point, the more hygroscopic the fluid. In smaller words, the fancier fluids need to be changed more often to work they way they are intended. If you don't actually need a high boiling point, then you should not be running fancy fluid, especially if you're the kind of person that never actually changes the fluid or, for example, adds fluid to the reservoir on rainy days.

(If you never realized that adding fluid on a rainy day is unwise, then you really don't need fancy fluid.)

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Why is no one running DOT5 fluid with these upgrades, best of all worlds, it doesnt absorb water at all and has the best boiling point/lifespan. The US Military uses it exclusively (see my avitar for my experience with them.) Bigget thing when changing fluids is to completely flush the old fluid out, you DO NOT want them mixing (makes a slimy gunk, personal experience.)

Brake lines should be cleaned before changing fluids, any fluid, DOT 5 fluid is about the best you can get for all the added benefits.

The price is what keeps some people from getting them, and any fluid should be bought in the smallest container possible.

How do you clean brake lines?, not flushing with new fluid but using something readily available, DENATURE ALCOHOL, or simply put ,wood alcohol, this is also what should be done when people add power steering fluid to the MC reservoir, very common.

After the line has been cleaned with the alcohol then it can be flushed with the new fluid, and it will take 1/3 of the BF to do it.

good stuff arrowhead, i think ill flush my system too since its all new except the hardlines, and ill get some DOT5 for it

dot45 said:

Why is no one running DOT5 fluid with these upgrades, best of all worlds, it doesnt absorb water at all and has the best boiling point/lifespan.

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Please remember to warn people that they can't use DOT5 if they still have their ABS. They have to use DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1, all of which are hygroscopic.

good call cinder i should have mentioned that too, i have abs but its disabled so i should be ok correct? Or do i need to remove it?

jtmcinder said:

Please remember to warn people that they can't use DOT5 if they still have their ABS. They have to use DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1, all of which are hygroscopic.

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Heh, didn't know DOT5 would cause an issue with ABS, of course I have yet to own a vehicle with ABS

Here is a good link with a comparison of the different Brake Fluid Specs:
:ifferent types of Brake Fluid ::

For most folks unless your doing autocross or live in the great North, DOT4 will be the best choice. If you need very low temp brake fuild performance or Very high temp, then DOT5 is the best choice. As stated above ABS= NO DOT5!!!!

cartz-snopro said:

put the 3g booster and master in last night , i dont even know how you could do it with the engine and manifold in the car, it was a bit tight with me standing in the engine bay!!!!!

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Haha, I know what you're talking about. I was able to get it in there without removing the engine or even the IM, surprisingly. It took a bit of maneuvering, but eventually worked it in. I would highly suggest doing it if you're going to have the IM or engine out, though.

I have a wrecked 3g sitting in my driveway that I can grap the brake master cylinder and brake booster on it. I am wondering where I run the lines once I hook it up.

Read back into this thread, I specifically wrote how to run the lines. You've just got to read.