I just bought a 90' tsi awd. Previous owner said it has socketed eprom ECU. It has 2g maf and injen intake. It has 550cc injectors and walbro255 fuel pump. It has a aftermarket FPR. It reads 53psi. It has manual boost controller set at 14lbs. It has greddy turbo timer that he say doesnt work. It comes on fine just doesnt affect the car. Im sure he has it wired wrong. He says that is 2 step also? Dont know much about that.
I changed the oil, filter, plugs. Got the best wires autozoo had to offer. Installes oil pressure gauge. Cleaned air filter changed radiator coolant. Car has big exhaust leak. Gasket from manifold to turbo is busted. (Parts to fix ordered)

Now to the point. When i bought the car it was not boosting . And it also cut out at 5500. Seemed like its hitting the rev limiter at 5500. I hace experienced fuel cut and this doesnt seem like that. Plus its cutting out regardless if im boosting. I replaced the wastegate and now it boosting 14lbs.

A friend told me that maybe the 2 step is stuck at 5500rpm. And disabling the clutch switch may fix it. I did that and it made no difference

Just want it to run right. Want a fun daily. Any help much appreciated.

Thanks

The fpr reads 53psi? If you have a manual 1g then you need to pull the vacuum line of the fpr and set the fuel pressure to 37psi when the car is idling

On my 1g with key diver stage 3 EPROM chip I have I have my fuel pressure gauge under the good set to 47psi to keep my afrs at 11:1 under boost. I had it set to stock pressure and my afrs were 12:1. I contacted Jeff O about it and he said he's seen a lot of under hood fuel pressure gauges read low. Just FYI.

Its definitely two step related. Make sure the vss is working properly.

Check your FPR at idle with the vacuum line pulled off the fuel pressure should be 37psi. If you suspect the gauge to be wrong, then swap out the gauge. Correct fuel pressure is very important since your ECU assumes a 37psi base fuel pressure.

It does sound much like the launch control is stuck on. Like 1983GSP said, make sure your speed sensor is hooked up. It also wouldn't hurt to swap in a stock EPROM chip to eliminate the custom chip altogether.

Double check to make sure you have a wire running from the clutch switch to the ECU. Also with engine off and key on run if you depress the gas pedal once does the stock boost gauge move at all?

WES_393 said:

Like 1983GSP said, make sure your speed sensor is hooked up.

Click to expand...

IIRC All 1gs have a cable vss. The only electrical connection on a 1g standard trans is the reverse switch. Only 2gs have electrical vss's on the trans. So that wouldn't matter would it?

chrisverneuil said:

Double check to make sure you have a wire running from the clutch switch to the ECU. Also with engine off and key on run if you depress the gas pedal once does the stock boost gauge move at all?

Click to expand...

I tried that and no the boost gauge does not move. Yes i have a wire going from tge clutch switch to the ECU

Try disconecting the clutch wire. If that solves the problem its wired wrong on the clutch switch.

Make sure the rev limit isn't actually set to 5500

WES_393 said:

Check your FPR at idle with the vacuum line pulled off the fuel pressure should be 37psi. If you suspect the gauge to be wrong, then swap out the gauge. Correct fuel pressure is very important since your ECU assumes a 37psi base fuel pressure.

It does sound much like the launch control is stuck on. Like 1983GSP said, make sure your speed sensor is hooked up. It also wouldn't hurt to swap in a stock EPROM chip to eliminate the custom chip altogether.

Click to expand...

I adjusted the fuel pressure to 37psi after buying a new gauge just to be sure.

The car also sputters and looses power at around 4k rpm about 50%to of the time. The other 50%mods it runs great to 55k then cuts out.
The stock boost gauge spikes out randomly on its own wether on or off the throttle, driving or not, it spikes out randomly.
Also i replaced the exhaust manifold, manifold to turbo gaskets and all the studs and nuts. After doing this i went for a drive, took it to 5k rpm and it nade a big pop noise and then ran like dog shit. It felt like i blew a IC coupler. I inspected the vehicle up and down everything looked good. Checked all fuzes. Car was running very boggy at 400rpm very slow to rev and sounds like crap. Its as if your trying to rev it with a blown coupler is how it felt. Finally i gave up and call
My girlfriend to come get me. I tried one more time just to see and the car fires up and acts completely normal.
Confused, i drove the car home. It ran fine all the way. The next day i start it and its doing the same thing again running like shit again. I worked in it for hours checking and cleaning with electric parts cleanerthe every fuze, relay, connections. I put in my friends fuel/spark regulator
Pulled out the ECU. It looks fine and says rebuilt 6/2/2006. No leak caps or burn marks. Car never acted right. I gave up for the night.

This morning i go out and just to see, i try to start it. It fires up and runs/ idles perfect. Drove it around for 20 min. No problems. Except the usuall cut out out at 5500rpm.

I feel it may be the ECU. but it was rebuilt 5 yrs ago looked good. Should i just replace it and pht my chip in another ECU?

Let me know if im wrong but i dont think i can just put a stock chip in mine.
There is a sticker on my chip that says:

75/60/AWD knock
550cc 2gmaf

Sorry for the typos. Doing this from my smart phone unfortunatly i dont have a PC

chrisverneuil said:

Try disconecting the clutch wire. If that solves the problem its wired wrong on the clutch switch.

Click to expand...

Tried that already

If its a Eprom you should be able to just swap chips, the issue does sound ecu related so thats a good place to start next.

Should i just swap out the chip or swap out the ECU and put my chip in it?

If i just swap the chip, dont i have to get a chip with the same set up as mine?

Regarding the VSS, this IS your problem for sure with the 5.5k cutout. The 1G has a reed switch in the gauge cluster, which is spun by the cable so that the ECU can control the cruise control from the factory, and since the EPROM is coded so that the ECU checks to see if the car is moving or stopped to use the two step, if the speed sensor isnt working, it thinks the car is stopped and goes to the two step at all times. It is rare, but the reed swicth does go bad every now and then, especially if the previous owner hooked up the speed sensor wire on the Greddy turbo timer (the TT uses the speed sensor to use its time attack mode). Try another gauge cluster, and if the Greddy speed sensor wire is connected to the ECU, disconnect it, it doesnt read 1G speed properly anyway.